Buck87

Code 3:
"System-ignition signal"
"Diagnosis-no "IGf" signal to ECU 4-5 times in a row"
"Trouble area-Igniter and Ignition coil circuit, Igniter and Ignition coil, ECU"


Code 4:
"System-Water temp. sensor signal"
"Diagnosis-Open or short circuit in water temp. sensor signal"
"Trouble area-Water temp. sensor circuit, Water temp. sensor, ECU


Code 11:
"System-Switch signal"
"Diagnosis-Air conditioner switch ON, Neutral start switch OFF, Idle switch OFF during initial diagnosis check."
"Trouble area-A/C switch circuit, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, Throttle position sensor circuit, Throttle position sensor, ECU

Buck87

4 crawler's website has instructions on how to OHM - out the TPS

camoyoda

installment #5 actually , all new vacuum lines and runs a little longer...and then dies.????

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I helped a friend with a similar problem just the other day. His truck would run and then die. Fuel pump was not getting power. Not sure how it got enough fuel to run but it did.

Jumper Fp/B+ like in the picture on the first post and then pull the rubber hose off of the metal line that is either on the fire wall or on the inner fender and stick it in a plastic bottle and turn on the key. It will fill a quart bottle in a minute or so. It will let you know if you are getting plenty of fuel with that check.

The last two codes above should not keep your truck from running. The first code pointing to the coil or igniter would keep your truck from running. Really no way of checking the igniter and in my experience I have never had one to fail. I am sure they do fail but not often.

I have had bad coils. There is an easy resistance check that you can do on the primary and secondary coils. A Haynes Manual has a very good description on how to do it.

Also make sure that there are no air leaks going to the plenum. A minor leak such as a small vacuum hose will not keep the truck from running but a big hole or leak will let it start for a few seconds and then die.

KYLEFOO

Sounds like you need to figure out why your injectors aren't firing. There are a few things that I'm aware of that affect the injectors. Grounds, solenoid resistor, circuit opening relay (cor) and air flow meter. I believe jumping fp and b+ bypasses the air flow meter and cor, this is for testing not a fix. The solenoid resistor can be tested with a multimeter, you may Google for test specs. There is a ground that comes out of the harness near the injectors/coolant temp/time switch. That should be under the front bolt that holds the plenum.

Edit: IMO these old trucks don't throw efi codes unless the sensor is unplugged or no continuity. I've never gotten a code until after I experienced severe drivability problems. With all those codes suspect the wire harness or ecu...

camoyoda

Back again guys ... checked the cor its good, like to have never got to it , I would like to kick the little guys ass that put it above the right dash speaker in a hole the size of a baseball bolted to the fender insert.... also checked the power to the cor when cranking, its good. Checked the solenoid relay its good. ?????

KYLEFOO

I've gotten codes from the igniter when I'm cranking it and it won't start for other reasons. Sure I'm stating the obvious but what have you found out about that code 11?

Again with the basics. Spark, stick a screwdriver in a spark plug wire and hold it close to bare metal, have someone else crank it and watch for spark. Try a noid light on your primary injectors, all of them, to make sure they're getting signal. Vacuum leaks will cause this too. Anything from cracks in the intake to exhaust valves too tight, any unmetered air. How's your cam timing?