zoma

New head, new timing chain, all new gaskets, it smokes real bad until it's really warmed up then it won't smoke. Just wondering what it might be?

Junkers88

Is it white smoke or blue?

rattlewagon

^ That was my first thought too. That will narrow it down alot. Haha.

Bojangles

Haha White smoke = burning Water

Blue smoke = burning Oil

zoma

When I start it's white, but if I drive it before it is warm it's darker

BigMike

Visible white smoke when your engine is cold is normal since the cold exhaust is a saturated mixture. It isn't until the engine warms up that our exhaust gases becomes transparent (no longer visible) thanks to superheated vapor properties.

Can you be absolutely positive if you see any blueness to your exhaust or not?

Thanks
Mike

zoma

ya it's dark for a little but it disappears once the truck is good and warm

BigMike

If you don't see any blueness in the steam, then it is perfectly normal.

What I'd advise is to check your engine oil once a week for about a month just to make sure everything is normal.

It's more than likely we are overreacting and everything is just fine with your engine But it never hurts to make sure everything is okay

BigMike

xxxtreme22r

Mine does this too. But mine is carb'd is yours? It's perfectly normal for the smoke to get a little darker (grey or blackish) when trying to drive a carb'd truck that hasn't fully warmed up yet as the choke has not had enough time to fully open, thus running a little richer.

BigMike

Great point. Gray indicates a rich mixture.


Here are some examples of normal morning white smoke I found on Google:

BigMike

Here are examples of blueish exhaust (oil mixed in the exhaust)

zoma

It is carb'd and it's blueish until it's warmed up

zoma

Why I have you guys how hard is the rear main to replace or at least that is what I think it is, there is oil all over the rear of the engine and bell housing and so on.

BigMike

The rear main is not related to your exhaust smoke. It is an involved job to change the rear main seal. You'll have to remove your transmission/transfer case, clutch & flywheel just to even see the seal. Then you'll have to drop the oil pan, remove the rear oil seal retainer (seal housing), and then replace the seal. Then put everything back together!

It is possible that your transmission input seal is leaking. Be sure to check if you are loosing motor or transmission oil?

If you do this, please please please please only use genuine Toyota seal and gaskets!! For something as difficult to service as this, NEVER settle for non-OEM seals/gaskets.

Also, it is possible to extract the seal without removing the seal housing (so you also don't have to drop the oil pan), but you must be extremely careful when installing the new seal that you install it perfectly parallel and at the proper depth. It is MUCH safer to replace the seal with the entire seal housing removed, and I highly recommend this, but it is more work. One way to view all the work is do it right with Toyota parts, and you'll never have to replace it ever again.

Here is a diagram from a 1985 22R engine. Notice the rear oil seal and it's retainer at the upper right:



Good luck!
BigMike

xxxtreme22r

You sure your leaking oil from the rear main and not the rear halfmoon gasket on the rocker cover?

zoma

Thanks for all your help, I'm going to dig into it and see where it is leaking exactly.