22re rebuild
09-29-2016, 03:15 PM
#24
Ok so I redid all the grounds and got it to fire. She popped and then idled for a second and shut off. Jumped her again popped again (rich load up pop) and wouldn't idle. I don't want to necessarily keep doing this as I need to break in the new cam. So my brain is kinda fries at the moment. If it's rich could the frites ute be off a tooth? Could it be a bad TPS connection. I need to source a new plug as mine is suspect. Is there something obvious I am missing? Next time I attack it is Saturday.
09-29-2016, 05:03 PM
#26
Registered User
I've been where you're at and it's crushing, after all that work. I hate to say it but it's probably the red paint.
Haha really though, at this point recheck the basics. Pull a spark plug, the distributor cap and the valve cover. Make sure #1 piston is up with the timing mark on the pulley at 0'. If the #1 valve rockers are tight, go around once more. Make sure #1 is up and the rockers are loose. That's power stroke. Pull the distributor and do LCEs distributor install here: http://youtu.be/9qEQMzHZtMo
beyond that, I had my cold start injector unplugged last time and it wouldn't go. I've had the idle screw in to far and it wouldn't go, back it out even if it was ok before the rebuild. Are you pressing the throttle while cranking? That helped me last time.
Verify fuel pressure, find the fuel pump check connector and jump it then loosed the cold start fuel bolt a little. Verify spark, while the spark plug is out put it on a wire and hold it near the engine (preferably not the red painted part) while your buddy cranks.
You'll it out. Don't stress but be smart about how much you're cranking it. It's probably shooting gas into the cylinders which washes off the oil.
Haha really though, at this point recheck the basics. Pull a spark plug, the distributor cap and the valve cover. Make sure #1 piston is up with the timing mark on the pulley at 0'. If the #1 valve rockers are tight, go around once more. Make sure #1 is up and the rockers are loose. That's power stroke. Pull the distributor and do LCEs distributor install here: http://youtu.be/9qEQMzHZtMo
beyond that, I had my cold start injector unplugged last time and it wouldn't go. I've had the idle screw in to far and it wouldn't go, back it out even if it was ok before the rebuild. Are you pressing the throttle while cranking? That helped me last time.
Verify fuel pressure, find the fuel pump check connector and jump it then loosed the cold start fuel bolt a little. Verify spark, while the spark plug is out put it on a wire and hold it near the engine (preferably not the red painted part) while your buddy cranks.
You'll it out. Don't stress but be smart about how much you're cranking it. It's probably shooting gas into the cylinders which washes off the oil.
09-29-2016, 07:54 PM
#27
Thanks for the reply. I double checked the valves before I installed it. I also double checked the timing chain many times before bolting on the timing chain cover. I didn't have to touch the gas at all to get it to fire. Just spun it over and she fired in about 1.5-2 seconds. I am hoping it is just the distributor out. I will Restab it and hope. If that's not it I will look at the chain and idle screw and everything else. 😖😖😖😖😖
09-30-2016, 09:52 AM
#28
Registered User
It does sound timing-related, but also could be a tps problem. As you probably know it has final say over the air/fuel mix ratio, so if it's running so rich the engine dies, it could be that.
You're absolutely sure that finicky little thing is set right, with ohm-meter and all?
I guess if the starter wires were bad, other wires in the harness become suspect as well.
You're absolutely sure that finicky little thing is set right, with ohm-meter and all?
I guess if the starter wires were bad, other wires in the harness become suspect as well.
09-30-2016, 09:59 AM
#29
I am 90% sure it is set correct as I babied the TB when I took it apart. I suck at adjusting those also. My gut says its the dristributor. I just ran out of time yesterday.
My buddy and I are doing the wheel bearings in his duramax so I can tow it home easier through the pass if need be. It is so much easier to work on something like this when you don't have to drive 2 hrs to get to it😡. Then I can just go up and swap his truck for mine and be good to go.
My buddy and I are doing the wheel bearings in his duramax so I can tow it home easier through the pass if need be. It is so much easier to work on something like this when you don't have to drive 2 hrs to get to it😡. Then I can just go up and swap his truck for mine and be good to go.
09-30-2016, 10:07 AM
#30
Registered User
it sounds
to me a tooth off on the distributer . as stated above tdc and recheck if i remember rite point rotor dead nutz on the green connector ? maybe some one can chime in on that , im in the middle of reassembly too . did you replace injectors too? if so the rite ones for either resistor or non resister are required .putting wrong early injector (resister type)into non resistor late 87 and later will run momentarily and then stall ,and can fry the ecu ecm .
to me a tooth off on the distributer . as stated above tdc and recheck if i remember rite point rotor dead nutz on the green connector ? maybe some one can chime in on that , im in the middle of reassembly too . did you replace injectors too? if so the rite ones for either resistor or non resister are required .putting wrong early injector (resister type)into non resistor late 87 and later will run momentarily and then stall ,and can fry the ecu ecm .
09-30-2016, 10:43 AM
#31
I didn't replace the injectors as the PO did them a year before I got it. He also gave me the OEM ones as well. If I can't get it right and the injectors prove to be the problem I will just put some flamethrower injectors in. I ran his in my 93 and liked them
09-30-2016, 04:22 PM
#32
Registered User
I am 90% sure it is set correct as I babied the TB when I took it apart. I suck at adjusting those also. My gut says its the dristributor. I just ran out of time yesterday.
My buddy and I are doing the wheel bearings in his duramax so I can tow it home easier through the pass if need be. It is so much easier to work on something like this when you don't have to drive 2 hrs to get to it😡. Then I can just go up and swap his truck for mine and be good to go.
My buddy and I are doing the wheel bearings in his duramax so I can tow it home easier through the pass if need be. It is so much easier to work on something like this when you don't have to drive 2 hrs to get to it😡. Then I can just go up and swap his truck for mine and be good to go.
The tps is easiest to set with the throttle body out and either have a spare cut harness hooked up or alligator clips for you ohm-meter. Then it's just about fitting the right gauge in the throttle stop and moving a clip. I've apparently never had mine set up right till a month ago!
10-01-2016, 06:07 PM
#33
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Sorry I'm so new that I can't start a thread to ask for help with this problem so I might as well just go around asking until I post 15 times. All started with blowing efi fuses in my 1994 4x4 22re single cab pickup. Was right down the road from my moms house so I tried putting new fuses in one after another they blew so I put a jumper wire in the place of the efi fuse hoping to atleast get it up to the house. I think I seriously fkd something up when I did that. Anyway. I read that o2 sensor wires melting to exhaust usually cause the fuses blowing like that and sure enough mines was melted so I separated them, soldered them back how they belong, and tied them off so they don't touch anything hot....now I have a bigger problem. There's no power to my efi fuse or the relay next to it. Tried to run a direct wire to my fuelpump, it turns on but truck won't start even with the fuel pump jumped. Checked for spark and now there is none. Could I have fried my ecu or something serious when I was tryna jerry rig my way back to the house????
10-01-2016, 06:50 PM
#34
Well thread jacking is not the best way but let's give it a shot. Have you checked to see if your disable link burned up? Have you checked all the bus fuses in your engine compartment and in the interior fuse block? You may well have fried something including the ECU but let's not jump to conclusions till we have evidence. When you turn the key to the on position do you get any lights on the dash? If so have you jumped the diagnostic port and checked the codes?
You our may have to get a multimeter and see what if any circuits you may have fried. But first make sure your fuses and bus fuses are all good and your disable link is still in tacked.
All of of these thing can be googled by saying "disable link (year) Toyota pickup 22re yotatech. The results should be great. Then substitute disable link for bus fuses and so on. Give that a whirl. Feel free to comment and ask related question in those threads as well. Check to make sure the threads aren't 10 years oud or you may not get a response. Hope this helps good luck. Also in the main screen on the newbie tech section there is a video that every member should watch. It's kinda funny and it helps explain where to look on the site for what information.
You our may have to get a multimeter and see what if any circuits you may have fried. But first make sure your fuses and bus fuses are all good and your disable link is still in tacked.
All of of these thing can be googled by saying "disable link (year) Toyota pickup 22re yotatech. The results should be great. Then substitute disable link for bus fuses and so on. Give that a whirl. Feel free to comment and ask related question in those threads as well. Check to make sure the threads aren't 10 years oud or you may not get a response. Hope this helps good luck. Also in the main screen on the newbie tech section there is a video that every member should watch. It's kinda funny and it helps explain where to look on the site for what information.
10-02-2016, 05:09 AM
#35
Registered User
I'll add in that if the fusible link wire tests/looks ok, the very next thing to look at is the 80 amp main fuse that it runs to.
Don't try to pull it out! The fusebox has to be removed, access is from underneath with wires held in by screws. Search threads here or Google '22re 80 amp fuse removal'. All other fuses and relays are standard plug-in type.
Fishguy77: there's thread jacking going on here for sure, but at least it's close to on-topic. Rather butting-in on a sas thread..
.
Don't try to pull it out! The fusebox has to be removed, access is from underneath with wires held in by screws. Search threads here or Google '22re 80 amp fuse removal'. All other fuses and relays are standard plug-in type.
Fishguy77: there's thread jacking going on here for sure, but at least it's close to on-topic. Rather butting-in on a sas thread..
.
10-02-2016, 12:07 PM
#36
Sorry I'm so new that I can't start a thread to ask for help with this problem so I might as well just go around asking until I post 15 times. All started with blowing efi fuses in my 1994 4x4 22re single cab pickup. Was right down the road from my moms house so I tried putting new fuses in one after another they blew so I put a jumper wire in the place of the efi fuse hoping to atleast get it up to the house. I think I seriously fkd something up when I did that. Anyway. I read that o2 sensor wires melting to exhaust usually cause the fuses blowing like that and sure enough mines was melted so I separated them, soldered them back how they belong, and tied them off so they don't touch anything hot....now I have a bigger problem. There's no power to my efi fuse or the relay next to it. Tried to run a direct wire to my fuelpump, it turns on but truck won't start even with the fuel pump jumped. Checked for spark and now there is none. Could I have fried my ecu or something serious when I was tryna jerry rig my way back to the house????
10-20-2016, 10:00 AM
#37
Update!Ok so since I am a mental midget when it comes to electrical problems I dropped it off at my friends/hunting buddy's shop. Should have it on the road soon����������.
It started and idled for about 10 seconds for my buddy before we pushed it off the trailer. He said it sounded great���������������� Can't wait to drive it. So freaking excited.
Last edited by thefishguy77; 10-20-2016 at 10:03 AM.
