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Old 02-05-2012, 12:32 AM   #1
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22RE Operating Temperature Questions.

Salud!

So, I have a question that I couldn't seem to find an answer to in this forum or the 86-95 Tech section...

I have a 94' 22RE 4x4 Pickup DLX, and when I got it the D.P.O. (Dip˟˟˟˟ Previous Owner) had been running it with a completely cracked vein'd OEM radiator, I'm talking touch the veins and they'd fall out with the rust holding them in...

So, I opted for a simple fix with a Spectra Plastic Tank Single Row Radiator, I know, I know, NOT a 3 row... NOT a Steel Tank... but Claims to be OEM replacement... and the price/warranty was right to keep me patched up and on the road... The old coolant was rust tinted, but not bad, and I flushed the system with Distilled water 2 times. Since this, I've flushed the system again, and it's completely clean.

My question: I get hot when I throw the heater on. I'm never touching the Red-line, but I get to the opposite side of the thermostat icon, and then after hovering for about 1 minute, drop back to the cool side and stay there. If I run it around town, it stays cool but a little high if I put the heater on. And I can occasionally hear some sloshing in the heater core / piping behind the dash when I throw the heater on and accelerate...

Thoughts? This is my 3rd 22RE, and all of them seem to have run on the cold side of the thermostat icon... Thanks Gents!
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:48 AM   #2
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Red face

You should never be able to hear sloshing in the heater core there is no where coolant could do that.

It is hard to tell with the factory gauge but it should run between I would say 180 to 200 ball park because of different factors .

It is also hard to judge the real cooling capacity between a one row and three row radiator it all comes down to the over all size of the radiator core.

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Old 02-05-2012, 02:58 AM   #3
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Your thermostat is sticking. Replace it with an OEM two stage and be done with it. Also, you have air in the cooling lines still.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:50 AM   #4
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The stock dash gauge I really hard to read if you want an actuall number.

I installed a aftermarket VDO gauge in my 4Runner. With the sensor replacing the stock 1 that is on the intake mid way back I can actually see the thermostat opening and closing and have actuall numbers to boot!

My 86 with the Dual Stage Toyota thermostat warms up to 195 and then cools to 178. It will cycle at these temps in stop and go traffic (city) but on the freeway maintains a temp of 190 unless it's in the summers when it cycles again from 195-178. I believe this is because my Rad is older and could be replaced.

Your heater core is obviously NOT full of water if you can hear sloshing. If it were full there is no available room for sloshing to happen. I'd park it on a steep hill and when cooled down pull the Rad cap off and start the enging with the heat full on. Hopefully you can get the bubble to pass up into the motor and then out to the Rad.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:54 AM   #5
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Also can pull the heater core hoses off where they come thru the fire wall under the windshield and see if you can feed some water in there. That IS the highest point of the entire system where air would be trapped.
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:03 AM   #6
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x2 on t-stat sticking.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #7
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Gents,

Much Love from Santa Cruz, I'll be pulling the Cooling lines open again this week for a good baby-burping... and snag myself a new OEM T-Stat while I'm at it. Many Thanks!
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:38 AM   #8
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Updates:

Still have yet to pull the lines and burp the baby, BUT bought a nice OEM Toyota T-Stat, and as I'm in school, I hopefully can pull it real soon.

Once again, Many thanks! Pics when I do it!
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:29 PM   #9
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Click the image to open in full size.

So, I spent today installing a CSF 3 Row Steel Radiator I got for a steal, and pulled out the old T-Stat and replaced it too with a OEM T-Stat.....

The Sloshing still is there! I can't get rid of it, and I burped the mess outa' the lines. I even went so far as to insert a burping/flushing T joint on the Upper Heater core line.

Click the image to open in full size.

When Parked on a Hill, when somewhat warm, and when on flat ground, both the Radiator cap and the T joint have coolant and pressure, like enough to bubble out... It ONLY sloshes when I accelerate AND have the Heater slider over on the Red Side....


Furthermore, in regards to the Sticking T-Stat, It STILL spikes in temperature when leave the heater on 'Red', and this fluctuates between the low end of the range to almost the red. X1 on the VDO gauges as a good idea... but I just can't afford dem' right now!
(Picture for reference)

Click the image to open in full size.

My next plan is to park on a incline when the car is cold, then pull the caps, and see if I can't get more bubbles out... But this seems to be more than just air... if it's spiking in heat still!

Any thoughts on what's troubling the system so much?
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:40 PM   #10
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Might be time for a cooling system pressure test or a chemical test on the coolant (NAPA sells a test kit) to look for exhaust gas contamination. My '85 did the same every time I had a HG leak. Under load, engine compression pushes exhaust gas into the cooling system, you hear those gas bubbles whooshing through the heater core (when the heater valve is open) and that was always my first sign of trouble. I never saw oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, just exhaust gas in the coolant. Pressure test and you can see if there is a high pressure leak or if the engine revs cause the cooling system pressure to rise and fall.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:48 PM   #11
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Air in a system becomes superheated and if its trapped in the area where the temp probe is you could get false readings. Just my $.02
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Crawler View Post
Pressure test and you can see if there is a high pressure leak or if the engine revs cause the cooling system pressure to rise and fall.
..>Seeeeemmmmsss likely, I can't find anything else to explain this, and been through 3 Radiators in 2 years with the same affliction... and if i remember correctly, the busted OEM 2 row had similar temp swings...
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:04 PM   #13
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ALSO,
Anyone here have experience with the T-Stat mod? Drilling a little 1mm / 2mm hole in the thing so more coolant can blow through?
I read it on here something like 3 years ago, I believe...
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _RaStA_RoCkEt_ View Post
ALSO,
Anyone here have experience with the T-Stat mod? Drilling a little 1mm / 2mm hole in the thing so more coolant can blow through?
I read it on here something like 3 years ago, I believe...
I did it on my pickup. It works if thats the problem. I read somewhere on here and have experienced it in that the heater dumps out right on the thermostat and the water being cooled off thru the heater core is enough to close the t-stat even though the water in the engine is still hot. Thats why i drilled mine. I just put a dual stage thermostat in my 4runner cuz it was having the same problem. It worked in both cases. Only problem is neither of them like to warm up to normal in cold weather. Cant remember if this quote is from the OP but it sounds like a possible head gasket problem or a warped head. I had an 84 that would do the same thing and make funny noises as it cooled of off from almost overheating. Try drilling the hole or the new t-stat but be prepared for a larger problem. The 22's cant stand much heat.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jasper 83 View Post
...Try drilling the hole or the new t-stat but be prepared for a larger problem. The 22's cant stand much heat.
It seems that the more I re-Read this thread, that the heat fluctuations are more serious than just a cooling system problem.

I'd say that using the DLX gauge, which is what I have, to measure the heat spikes its something like...

(The {-} is the center, xxxx is redline)

[----0--------{-}---0-----xxxx]

Between the zeros. Always

Of Course, if i DON'T switch the heater to Hot, the truck never gets to the center!
:
This is a serious thing, ya' think?
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #16
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4Crawler,

What do you think about the T-Stat mod's Applicability here? it seems that there's some plausibility to it...

I'll go out tonight and test the 'Bubbles Under Load' bit... I want to make sure it's not a gravitational thing, with the tail end pulling towards the rear and the fluids following suit.

Thanks ya'll, Much help!

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Old 03-20-2012, 03:32 AM   #17
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Drilling the t stat is worth a shot. Id try it
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:41 PM   #18
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So, I spoke to some local mechanics about this issue and they suggested perhaps a heater core issue...


VVV this thread seems to have some insight, I'll keep you posted. VVV

http://www.yotatech.com/f115/heater-...rgling-194857/
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:43 PM   #19
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Drilling the t stat is worth a shot. Id try it
This is what i wanted to do, hoping for a quick fix... but I'm not sure if I'm going to go for it right now. If I can't isolate an issue with backflushing the Heater core or simply seeing it clogged, I'll go for the replacement or the dual-state heater core.

Thanks Jasper.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:43 PM
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