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1991 Toyota 4runner Code 52 and engine "jerk"

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Old 09-18-2013, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by vegasrunner
dealing with mine with code 52 gonna dive in and check it all out. same problems too safe mode poor mpgs very little power. my ks actually disconnected at the pigtail when i was on a bumpy trail.
Here's some more information on your problem,

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JH...5_200225_1.pdf

Hope it helps!
Old 04-30-2014, 12:36 PM
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Hate to resucitate the dead but I have a problem... I recently replaced my pigtail for the KNOCK SENSOR and my code went away. I drove the truck for about 150 miles with no issues then suddenly, the CEL came back. Today I went to pull the CEL code and what... The same code 52 came back... I am going to order a KS but was wondering what the deal is since my CEL did not turn back on until 100+ miles were put on the engine after replacing the pigtail... Could this be an issue with wiring and not the KS?

I will make sure to clean-out the connectors tonight because this sucks, I was happy with my truck but this is making me upset... Also, I dont have problems with power, just the CEL coming on.

89 Toyota 4x4 V6 3.0 - 3VZE
Old 04-30-2014, 07:56 PM
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Make UOTE=teaMJPx;52191526]Hate to resucitate the dead but I have a problem... I recently replaced my pigtail for the KNOCK SENSOR and my code went away. I drove the truck for about 150 miles with no issues then suddenly, the CEL came back. Today I went to pull the CEL code and what... The same code 52 came back... I am going to order a KS but was wondering what the deal is since my CEL did not turn back on until 100+ miles were put on the engine after replacing the pigtail... Could this be an issue with wiring and not the KS?

I will make sure to clean-out the connectors tonight because this sucks, I was happy with my truck but this is making me upset... Also, I dont have problems with power, just the CEL coming on.

89 Toyota 4x4 V6 3.0 - 3VZE[/QUOTE]
I would say use an ohm meter and test the wire. Clean the terminals before you drop 300 on a new sensor. Let Me know if you need help. I just went through it all and its simpler than you think.
Old 05-01-2014, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mxoliver115
I would say use an ohm meter and test the wire. Clean the terminals before you drop 300 on a new sensor. Let Me know if you need help. I just went through it all and its simpler than you think.
Thanks, I actually went home and would you believe I was not able to find my ohm meter? That is what happens when you have a tool you need and have been using... misplace it and you'll have a wonderful time trying to find it .

Anyways, I am off this weekend and will definately check the resistance and post back. Thanks for offering help, I might just take you up on that as I might hit a brick wall if I cant figure this out... jejeje
Old 06-09-2014, 09:45 PM
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teaMJPx, did you end up fixing your code 52? Where was the problem?
Old 07-19-2014, 08:47 AM
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I wanted to post my own little code 52 semi-success story.

It started as an intermittent code and soon became permanent. Robs the crap out of the power! I did research and with no shortage of threads on here and other sites about this issue... I soon decided best way for me is to install one on the engine hook. First, I doubted it was the knock sensor or the pigtail since both were installed brand new during the Engine rebuild about 4500 miles ago. I tested the harness and it tested fine, but I thought that's not good enough. I bought this wire ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/181100245547?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) and hooked it up temporarily, and still was getting the code 52. FYI, the right way to do it to know definitively that your wiring is NOT the issue is to wire the sensor wire all the way to the ECU harness connector, and the shielding wire to the E1 splicing right into the wire at the ECU harness end again. So, I ordered a new knock sensor from toyotapartszone.com ($175) and new pigtail, ordered the drill bit and tap (12 X 1/25) .. thanks to a thread by another user on here for that info! And, also, I decided to put a nut on the protruding threads from the back. Since the goal is to pick up the engine blocks' vibrations, you want the most 'solid' connection between the block and the knock sensor that you can get. ANyway, here are the pics. The problem is fixed! BEWARE, the 1991 engines somehow have 2 pigtails that match with the VIN, and one of them does NOT fit.. as I found out the hard way.





This is the wiring at the ECU connector. The wire on the left is the new wire. I did a lot of research before I purchased this. Use it, it works.

Good drilling and wiring!
Old 11-13-2017, 02:17 PM
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Code 52

I have the same frustrated question on code 52. The knock sensor. Has any one fix the problem on this issue I got my 95 4runner about 6 months ago and I took the engine and heads to get rebuilt (3.0 3vze) and now that is all put together I get code 52 and same as everyone else. Once the engine light come up it looses power. Any help pls...thanks in advance
Old 11-13-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Beto Robles Encinas
I have the same frustrated question on code 52. The knock sensor. Has any one fix the problem on this issue I got my 95 4runner about 6 months ago and I took the engine and heads to get rebuilt (3.0 3vze) and now that is all put together I get code 52 and same as everyone else. Once the engine light come up it looses power. Any help pls...thanks in advance
It's 2 things. A bad wire or bad sensor. If you can ohm the wire it's good. If the wire is good it's the sensor or the pigtail and requires another tear down. If I had to do it again I would test the new sensor before I tore it down as I got 2 bad cheap sensors off of eBay.
Old 11-13-2017, 03:06 PM
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I have tried two new sensors, installed brand new toyota harness from ebay. Wires to the ecu check out to be good. I even ran a new wire from harness to ecu just incase a bad connection but still same problem. It starts with a hesitation but once I give it gas it runs well. Once I put in gear and drive about 1-2 miles light comes on and same thing ....i turn the engine back on no problem, no hesitation and no light. Again 1-2 miles and same thing. I can go on doing it over and over .
Old 11-13-2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Beto Robles Encinas
I have tried two new sensors, installed brand new toyota harness from ebay. Wires to the ecu check out to be good. I even ran a new wire from harness to ecu just incase a bad connection but still same problem. It starts with a hesitation but once I give it gas it runs well. Once I put in gear and drive about 1-2 miles light comes on and same thing ....i turn the engine back on no problem, no hesitation and no light. Again 1-2 miles and same thing. I can go on doing it over and over .
it's the sensor. You can plug them in from the outside to see if they work without tearing it down.
Old 11-13-2017, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mxoliver115
it's the sensor. You can plug them in from the outside to see if they work without tearing it down.
I had to spend 300 on a toyota sensor.
Old 11-13-2017, 03:28 PM
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Wow... now I did test the sensor before installing. I test with multimeter from its own ground. What reading should I be getting??
Old 11-13-2017, 03:29 PM
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Did you buy the new sensor from toyota dealer? I got mine from orellys , for 160 I belive..
Old 11-13-2017, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Beto Robles Encinas
Wow... now I did test the sensor before installing. I test with multimeter from its own ground. What reading should I be getting??
you can't test them like like. You'd need a scope. You can plug it in and see if it works.
Old 11-13-2017, 05:17 PM
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I just checked with the dealer and the sensor is $313.00 ..did you try any other aftermarket sensor before you decided to go with toyota original?? Sorry for the many ??'s . And how do I try outside before taking t
Old 11-13-2017, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Beto Robles Encinas
I just checked with the dealer and the sensor is $313.00 ..did you try any other aftermarket sensor before you decided to go with toyota original?? Sorry for the many ??'s . And how do I try outside before taking t
I did the same as you. I worked the wire... replaced it with coax.... Got a eBay wire and sensor and tore it down.... Got another eBay wire and sensor and again tore it down. Bought the 313 $ toyota sensor and it worked. So to check the sensor all you need to do is plug the sensor into the harnes from the outside. When the code goes away you gear the engine down and stick it in there.
Old 04-22-2019, 08:22 AM
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Can you help me too???

Hello sir. I have that horrible jerk problem too. When it warms up it’s a little better. Are you saying that just cleaning the engine ground wires solved that?? How many do you remember it having?





Originally Posted by CpMike
Just a follow up on my problem and it's solution. I did the remote mount for the knock sensor and that allowed me to easily verify the circuit's integrity. On that note, anyone who takes that circuit apart, thoroughly clean terminals and use a conductive electrical joint compound to ensure a very good connection and always replace the short intake wire. This clears my code 52 problem.

The check engine light cleared but I was still having the "jerk". Cleaning all the engine harness grounds and using the same conductive electrical joint compound corrected that problem. Loss of current flow to ECM.

Finally, the big fix! The poor idle, high fuel consumption and low power issue was caused by the aftermarket cams. The Topline brand cams that I used were defective as far as the valve and distributed timing. After swapping them out with melling camshafts and installing the knock sensor back in the gallery the truck runs great and has good power and good fuel economy. Well at least as far as the 3vze is concerned.
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