Can't remove front axle

rlabbe · 08-09-2009, 05:56 PM

I have an '08 4runner, and am trying to pull the front driver's side axle because of a CV boot repair. This is my first major wrenching job, so go easy on me.

I have the wheel and wheel hub nut off, the tie rod removed, and the two bolts connecting the spindle to the balljoint off.

Now I am trying to get the axle out of the spindle. The Haynes repair manual says to use a brass drift and a hammer (I assume meaning whacking the axle end sticking out of the hub).

The FSM says to remove the diff side first, using a sliding hammer with a special hook, and then to remove the axle from the spindle "in the same way". I don't have a sliding hammer, or any special equipment. I've tried the pry bar technique to pull the diff end, but it's not going either. I'm not sure if I'm not doing it right, or the resistance from the spindle is making it impossible. There's really only one spot where I can get the pry bar in there. I talked to a former factory service mechanic at Advance Auto Parts, he said that he always used 2 pry bars, working it around. I don't see how I can do that with the space limitations.

I've tried hammering out the axle from the spindle using a hammer (and sledge) using a wood block to protect the axle. It is not budging. I've hit it with PB Blaster, though there seems to be no corrosion.

The threads on here, and the sources they list, such as this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/ make it sound easy. The 4x4 wire says to just pull the axle out of the axle. However, that is for
a 3rd gen.

So, one, am I going about this the right way? Second, how much force should be applied at the diff end to pry out the axle? It feels like I am using a lot of force, but it isn't giving.

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**DeathCougar** · 08-09-2009, 06:46 PM

At work we use a tie rod pickle fork to butt up against the axle, then hit the pickle fork with a hammer. That gets the axle out of the diff. prying with pry bars just doesn't work very well. Its needs to have a solid, non-flexible direct hit.

As for the spindle end, put the nut back on the axle part way, and beat the hell out of it. Better to damage the $5 nut than the $150 axle. This is what we do as well, then beat the hell out of the nut and it usually backs the axle out.

rlabbe · 08-09-2009, 07:21 PM

Tada! Okay, the nut trick worked great, after about 5 mighty wallops. Thanks!

I don't have a tie rod pickle fork. I'm not sure I understand the description. I assume you mean you are using it like a wedge - you fit it between the diff and the front drive shaft, at a tangent, and hit it so the wedge forces it apart. Not that you point the pickle fork straight in towards the axle. There's a relatively thin metal ring in here, and it seems like it would be easy to bend/damage if the pickle fork went straight in.

I tried this with a chisel, but so far no success. I'm going to continue trying, but if anyone has any other suggestions, I'd like to hear them still.

**DeathCougar** · 08-09-2009, 08:10 PM

No don't use it like a wedge. Hold it at about a 45 degree angle against the axle and beat on it. The only reason I say pickle fork is because it is solid. Any thing that is solid will work, but pry bars are meant to be flexible.

Lumpy · 08-09-2009, 08:16 PM

You depending on the fork you might be able to get it to go around the axle??? I know they have different sizes (I think

) You could use anything that will not give much. A few good whacks and your on your way. If that does not work get a bigger hammer!

rlabbe · 08-09-2009, 08:34 PM

Well, I'm using a very heavy sledge hammer. I've tried with a piton (blunt piece of metal), hitting as hard as I can in the space, to no avail. This is on jack stands, not a lift, so I can't get a great swing. I've also tried a pretty long/heavy framing hammer. Sounds like I just have to keep at it.

Lumpy · 08-09-2009, 08:44 PM

Ok gotta ask, you do have all the bolts out??? Didn't forget one?

Just a thought...

rlabbe · 08-10-2009, 07:37 AM

All the bolts out? On the diff? The FSM nor Haynes say anything about it. The steps in the FSM are:

Remove wheel
Drain diff oil
Remove axle hub nut
remove speed sensor
separate tie rod
remove 2 bolts from lower arm
remove inner drive shaft using sliding hammer

It's the same in the Haynes manual.

I think I saw mention of bolts on the diff in the older gen 4runner threads. If so, I don't think we have to do this on 4th gen. OTOH, if you meant the bolts on the LCA, yes, they are gone.

**DeathCougar** · 08-10-2009, 08:23 AM

There are no bolts holding the axle in to the diff. Its merely a C-clip, just like on the 3rd gens.

If you are removing bolts from the diff, you are doing something wrong.

Lumpy · 08-10-2009, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathCougar

There are no bolts holding the axle in to the diff. Its merely a C-clip, just like on the 3rd gens.

If you are removing bolts from the diff, you are doing something wrong.

I was thinking they are setup more like a 2nd gen with the front end IFS. I guess I assumed wrong. My bad...

rlabbe · 08-10-2009, 08:57 AM

And we are done! I took a cold chisel, ground off the sharp edge, and used that against the indentations in the axle assembly case. I think what was holding me up is that I was told there was just a c clip that needed to be released, and it would slide out. So I thought there would be a single pop and it would come out. Instead I had to drive it out bit by bit - it would move some, but still be attached.

Thanks to everyone for helping me out. I have to say, this would be a bear on the trail. The part everyone frets about, removing the hub nut, was easy. But getting that axle out (both ends) required a sledge - a long framing hammer didn't begin to touch it.

Lumpy · 08-10-2009, 09:03 AM

Well I'm glad you got her out!!! I bet you feel better now!!

rlabbe · 08-10-2009, 09:09 AM

Yes. I haven't heard back from the guy with the reman axle, who was supposed to have called me by now. I have a feeling that I'm going to be buying a boot repair kit from the dealer, which is not a big deal. I need to learn how to do this stuff anyway.

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08-09-2009, 07:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
rlabbe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 12	Tada! Okay, the nut trick worked great, after about 5 mighty wallops. Thanks! I don't have a tie rod pickle fork. I'm not sure I understand the description. I assume you mean you are using it like a wedge - you fit it between the diff and the front drive shaft, at a tangent, and hit it so the wedge forces it apart. Not that you point the pickle fork straight in towards the axle. There's a relatively thin metal ring in here, and it seems like it would be easy to bend/damage if the pickle fork went straight in. I tried this with a chisel, but so far no success. I'm going to continue trying, but if anyone has any other suggestions, I'd like to hear them still.

08-09-2009, 08:34 PM	#6 (permalink)
rlabbe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 12	Well, I'm using a very heavy sledge hammer. I've tried with a piton (blunt piece of metal), hitting as hard as I can in the space, to no avail. This is on jack stands, not a lift, so I can't get a great swing. I've also tried a pretty long/heavy framing hammer. Sounds like I just have to keep at it.

08-10-2009, 07:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
rlabbe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 12	All the bolts out? On the diff? The FSM nor Haynes say anything about it. The steps in the FSM are: Remove wheel Drain diff oil Remove axle hub nut remove speed sensor separate tie rod remove 2 bolts from lower arm remove inner drive shaft using sliding hammer It's the same in the Haynes manual. I think I saw mention of bolts on the diff in the older gen 4runner threads. If so, I don't think we have to do this on 4th gen. OTOH, if you meant the bolts on the LCA, yes, they are gone.

08-10-2009, 08:57 AM	#11 (permalink)
rlabbe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 12	And we are done! I took a cold chisel, ground off the sharp edge, and used that against the indentations in the axle assembly case. I think what was holding me up is that I was told there was just a c clip that needed to be released, and it would slide out. So I thought there would be a single pop and it would come out. Instead I had to drive it out bit by bit - it would move some, but still be attached. Thanks to everyone for helping me out. I have to say, this would be a bear on the trail. The part everyone frets about, removing the hub nut, was easy. But getting that axle out (both ends) required a sledge - a long framing hammer didn't begin to touch it.

08-10-2009, 09:09 AM	#13 (permalink)
rlabbe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 12	Yes. I haven't heard back from the guy with the reman axle, who was supposed to have called me by now. I have a feeling that I'm going to be buying a boot repair kit from the dealer, which is not a big deal. I need to learn how to do this stuff anyway.