Zero Electrical power nothing at all
11-27-2009, 10:07 PM
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Zero Electrical power nothing at all
Ok so I was out wheeling the other night everything was fine. I had my high beams on coming down a trail . I hit a couple of little bumps nothing serious an I noticed my lights flicker. No warning lights a this point so I kept driving. I hit a couple more bumps an the lights popped on (brake an battery light). So I turned my high beams off and next thing I no The truck looses complete electrical power. I mean completely dead. I checked the battery with a multimeter and i'm getting all 12 volts.All my fuses are fine. Pulled out the pcm engine computer nothing is fried no burning smell. Alternator belt is still on the pulleys. I'm completely lost does anybody have any advice on what to look for before i go out an buy an alternator. Any help would be greatly appreciated . I apologize if my post description is confusing or in the wrong forum this is my first post on this site been a member for awhile but just recently started really checking out the site.
Vehicle info. 1988 Toy 3.0 v6 4in lift 33in mudterrains 5spd. 315k baby an still chugging along I love my toyotas.
11-27-2009, 11:42 PM
#4
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If the battery still has power, losing an alternator should not have caused a complete power loss. I would take another look at the large fuses and the electrical connections going to them. Also check and clean the alternator connections as suggested above. I would also start the truck and check that the voltage on the battery increases to around 14 volts to see if the alternator is charging the battery.
Last edited by the_supernerd; 11-27-2009 at 11:43 PM.
11-28-2009, 12:30 AM
#5
i would look real close at all the ground connections
.i just had one that the wire running from the B terminal on the Alternator was just fried from being old and burnt just replaced the last 16 inches
as stated with the truck running you should around 13.5 to 14 volts. Then again if you have no battery power the vehicle won`t start.
When you lost all power of course the truck shut off being the 3.0 was never carbed that I know of..
My question how did you get out of where you were??
I had a starter short out that caused a total loss of power.
It is always so much fun to figure out electrical troubles on line
Good luck
.i just had one that the wire running from the B terminal on the Alternator was just fried from being old and burnt just replaced the last 16 inches
as stated with the truck running you should around 13.5 to 14 volts. Then again if you have no battery power the vehicle won`t start.
When you lost all power of course the truck shut off being the 3.0 was never carbed that I know of..
My question how did you get out of where you were??
I had a starter short out that caused a total loss of power.
It is always so much fun to figure out electrical troubles on line
Good luck
11-28-2009, 12:42 AM
#6
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Sounds like it may be a fusible link or maybe a bad ground or other connection.
This post from TN is focused on the ignition switch but might be of some help - it may help track down what circuits have power and which don't:
This post from TN is focused on the ignition switch but might be of some help - it may help track down what circuits have power and which don't:
Originally Posted by sb5walker
Most likely a bad ignition switch since its intermittent. But will be good to track down exactly what circuit is bad: the switch has two different power leads.
The following info comes from my 89 pickup factory manual and probably applies to all 88-91 trucks. There may be some differences for the 92-95 trucks, but probably not many.
Ignition switch lead AM1 comes from batt through MAIN fusible link (FL) in pos batt cable before it goes into the fuse/relay block (FRB) on passenger inner fender, through FL "ALT" in FRB (only if 60A alt), through FL "AM1" in FRB (for both 55A and 60A alts), then to ignition switch. The ignition switch connects that power lead to the RAD & CIG fuses when switch is in ACC and ON positions, and to the GAUGE, WIP, TURN, ECU & ENG fuses when switch is in ON position (but not in ACC position). These fuses are in the fuse block in drivers kick panel.
Lead AM2 comes through MAIN FL, through FL AM2 in FRB, then to ignition switch. The switch connects that lead to the IGN fuse in drivers kick panel when switch is in the ON position. (The lead from the IGN fuse triggers the EFI Main Relay in the FRB. When triggered, the EFI main relay connects power from the EFI fuse in the FRB to the ecu. You can check that the EFI main relay is working by checking for power on terminal +B in the gray diagnostic check connector on the side of the FRB when ignition is ON. If no power, check the EFI fuse in the FRB. That gets power from batt through MAIN FL, through FL AM2. Also check that IGN fuse gets power when ignition in ON position. -But I recommend running the checks of the ignition switch described below before bothering to check the EFI main relay.)
To check the AM1 circuit, look for power on the STOP fuse in the drivers kick panel - that gets power directly from the AM1 FL (which gets power from MAIN FL). Then check for power on the RAD or CIG fuse when ignition switch is both in the ACC and ON positions. If the RAD and CIG fuses don't see power when STOP fuse is hot and ignition switch is in both the ACC & ON positions, then either bad ignition switch or bad connection to it.
To check the AM2 circuit, look for power on the EFI fuse in FRB, which means your MAIN FL and AM2 FL are good, then check for power on IGN fuse in drivers kick panel when ignition switch is in ON position. If that fuse is not seeing power when EFI fuse is hot and ignition switch is ON, then either bad ignition switch or bad connection to it.
To check the START position of the ignition switch, verify power at the EFI fuse, then look for power on the FP terminal in the check connector while a helper tries to crank the motor. That's not a perfect check because power to FP comes through the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump. If no power on FP could be a bad ignition switch or a bad COR.
If all the power leads & ignition switch check out, may be a bad ground. Verify continuity between neg batt post and engine block, between neg batt post & chassis, between chassis and E1 terminal of ecu, and between engine block and terms E01 & E02 on ecu.
Sometimes electrical problems can come from a component that is malfunctioning and causing shorts in the system. These can be very tough to find. There are many relays in the system that could cause trouble. The combination wiper/headlight switch on the steering column is a potential trouble-causer. So if the power leads and grounds check out, you may have your work cut out for you.
Good luck! Let us know what you find.
The following info comes from my 89 pickup factory manual and probably applies to all 88-91 trucks. There may be some differences for the 92-95 trucks, but probably not many.
Ignition switch lead AM1 comes from batt through MAIN fusible link (FL) in pos batt cable before it goes into the fuse/relay block (FRB) on passenger inner fender, through FL "ALT" in FRB (only if 60A alt), through FL "AM1" in FRB (for both 55A and 60A alts), then to ignition switch. The ignition switch connects that power lead to the RAD & CIG fuses when switch is in ACC and ON positions, and to the GAUGE, WIP, TURN, ECU & ENG fuses when switch is in ON position (but not in ACC position). These fuses are in the fuse block in drivers kick panel.
Lead AM2 comes through MAIN FL, through FL AM2 in FRB, then to ignition switch. The switch connects that lead to the IGN fuse in drivers kick panel when switch is in the ON position. (The lead from the IGN fuse triggers the EFI Main Relay in the FRB. When triggered, the EFI main relay connects power from the EFI fuse in the FRB to the ecu. You can check that the EFI main relay is working by checking for power on terminal +B in the gray diagnostic check connector on the side of the FRB when ignition is ON. If no power, check the EFI fuse in the FRB. That gets power from batt through MAIN FL, through FL AM2. Also check that IGN fuse gets power when ignition in ON position. -But I recommend running the checks of the ignition switch described below before bothering to check the EFI main relay.)
To check the AM1 circuit, look for power on the STOP fuse in the drivers kick panel - that gets power directly from the AM1 FL (which gets power from MAIN FL). Then check for power on the RAD or CIG fuse when ignition switch is both in the ACC and ON positions. If the RAD and CIG fuses don't see power when STOP fuse is hot and ignition switch is in both the ACC & ON positions, then either bad ignition switch or bad connection to it.
To check the AM2 circuit, look for power on the EFI fuse in FRB, which means your MAIN FL and AM2 FL are good, then check for power on IGN fuse in drivers kick panel when ignition switch is in ON position. If that fuse is not seeing power when EFI fuse is hot and ignition switch is ON, then either bad ignition switch or bad connection to it.
To check the START position of the ignition switch, verify power at the EFI fuse, then look for power on the FP terminal in the check connector while a helper tries to crank the motor. That's not a perfect check because power to FP comes through the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump. If no power on FP could be a bad ignition switch or a bad COR.
If all the power leads & ignition switch check out, may be a bad ground. Verify continuity between neg batt post and engine block, between neg batt post & chassis, between chassis and E1 terminal of ecu, and between engine block and terms E01 & E02 on ecu.
Sometimes electrical problems can come from a component that is malfunctioning and causing shorts in the system. These can be very tough to find. There are many relays in the system that could cause trouble. The combination wiper/headlight switch on the steering column is a potential trouble-causer. So if the power leads and grounds check out, you may have your work cut out for you.
Good luck! Let us know what you find.
11-28-2009, 01:47 PM
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Well today I went an towed it home from the woods an brought it back to my house and after checking a few connections found that the previous owner used a but connector on the positive wire terminal leading to the fuse box. I removed the old terminal an replaced it with a thicker gauge wire, from the fuse box directly to the battery so there would be no chance of this problem happening again. I also replaced the ground wire an cleaned were they bolt to the chassis an the block. Thank you for your guys help luckily I got out of it with spending as little money as possible. thank you once again
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11-28-2009, 01:55 PM
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I almost forgot to tell how you guys my adventure home haha , well my buddy towed me from the woods with a strap about 15miles from apple pie hill in buena, nj to medford, nj. We were about 10 min from home when a we came up to blue an red flashing lights as we pulled into a neighborhood the cop instantly banged a u-turn he must of saw the strap an no lights!!!! Luckily the cop was a very cool guy an escorted us from were we were to the department of public works so I did not have to call a tow truck and got out of it without a ticket . I went an picked it up with my toyota tundra the next day with a car dolly. Luckily when I got home it was a quick easy fix an ill be back otu on the trails tonight. If any one is familiar with south jersey im always looking for another toy to come show my buddies why these trucks are one of a kind. Pm me if your looking to go out on some trail rides thanks again to every one for there help.
11-29-2009, 04:15 PM
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Let me no if your interested in a trail ride You can come check out the trails here an i no there is some crazy trails in pa around tower city Ive only been up there with a quad but im sure there are places for trucks.
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