Yet another gearing post?! Yep, Auto Tranny Issues-Fluid Leak!!
#1
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Thread Starter
Yet another gearing post?! Yep, Auto Tranny Issues-Fluid Leak!!
Went on a camping trip this week, to have this issue really bum/stress us out.
I did the search bit, and havn't seen this type of subject come up in discussion, so...
Why would Toyota make a 2wd Runner, with the 3.0/Auto Tranny combo, then put only a two ring pinion and 3.90's in it??? :wtf:
Tell me I'm off here, please, because I swear, if it was a manual tranny it would be at least a 4 pinion with 4.11/.10's in it. Any reason the auto would have a different set-up?? Maybe to reduce line pressure??
Not to sound too stupid here, but why the different gearing?
~Yeah, I'm good w/ manuals, just not autos, and the reasoning for this rig is it's the "Not a Toy" vehicle, but still needs to serve duty as a snow/family rig.
(In other words, the Inchworm Gear converter, and the spare IFS from the other rig is in mind for this truck to make it 4wd. My ultimate hope is it might just be a cruddy input seal, but who has one go bad at only 80k???
*Sorry the pic's still not rotated around, was laying on the ground with the cell phone at the time. Everyone's support on this subject is appreciated!!
EDIT NOTES: So anyone else having issues like this can find this easier, these words are now added in to this post...
Automatic Transmission Tranny ECT O/D Overdrive Leak Leaky Leaking Bellhousing Torque Converter
Also: Here's the post I was looking for...Duh!!!! My bad...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...mission+cooler
I did the search bit, and havn't seen this type of subject come up in discussion, so...
Why would Toyota make a 2wd Runner, with the 3.0/Auto Tranny combo, then put only a two ring pinion and 3.90's in it??? :wtf:
Tell me I'm off here, please, because I swear, if it was a manual tranny it would be at least a 4 pinion with 4.11/.10's in it. Any reason the auto would have a different set-up?? Maybe to reduce line pressure??
Not to sound too stupid here, but why the different gearing?
~Yeah, I'm good w/ manuals, just not autos, and the reasoning for this rig is it's the "Not a Toy" vehicle, but still needs to serve duty as a snow/family rig.
(In other words, the Inchworm Gear converter, and the spare IFS from the other rig is in mind for this truck to make it 4wd. My ultimate hope is it might just be a cruddy input seal, but who has one go bad at only 80k???
*Sorry the pic's still not rotated around, was laying on the ground with the cell phone at the time. Everyone's support on this subject is appreciated!!
EDIT NOTES: So anyone else having issues like this can find this easier, these words are now added in to this post...
Automatic Transmission Tranny ECT O/D Overdrive Leak Leaky Leaking Bellhousing Torque Converter
Also: Here's the post I was looking for...Duh!!!! My bad...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...mission+cooler
Last edited by Four Runner; 06-26-2007 at 01:09 AM.
#2
Contributing Member
Auto and 3.90's? That thing has got to redefine DOG on the highway! You probably tach like 1000 RPM at 70 MPH!
The answer to your question is that the 2WD models were the bargain stripper versions, and the extra spider gears add cost that is not needed with smaller tires on the road.
The answer to your question is that the 2WD models were the bargain stripper versions, and the extra spider gears add cost that is not needed with smaller tires on the road.
#4
Banned for being an asshat
Thread Starter
That's the exact conversation we had with InchWorm Gear. I looked at your site stuff, particularly this bit: http://www.gearinstalls.com/aussielocker.htm , great info!!
[EDITED...See Below Note.]
So yeah, my thought is to have the seal replaced, put in an aftermarket cooler/fan combo, Summit has one, right? Heck, I could just pull the one I put on the other truck!! Then more than likely, just 4.11/.10, unless anyone can convince my wife I should put anything bigger than 31/32's on there. The reasoning behind the 4 pinion is strength/longevity, but now she's also open to the locker idea for the traction, so I do have some direction here, I just want to hear everyone's input, as this is new territory with the Toyota tranny for me. If I'm off base, please let me know why, as frankly, I don't want a call from the wife saying it's blowing fluid again.
I still plan on talking to Randy when I get the time next week, but from everything I'm hearing, I also need to check my idle at 60mph, to see just how much the gearing's playing into things, I do like the idea behind the 4.11-4.56 ratios, as I come from a S-10, 4.3 auto, w/ the 4.56's on it and 33's. Granted the 3.0's a different beast, but I do remember the power change when I switched then, and hopefully, I'll still keep the highway drivability, and climbing gearing, while reducing the line pressure in the auto by going with the 4.11/.10 idea.
**Big point on the "stripped model" tc, that's why it doesn't even have rear heat as an option, but then again, one less thing to care about fixing, right.
EDIT:Things a 3 fin...looks like I may be smarter to find a 4 fin, 4 pinion with the gearing I want, maybe with the e-locker option. (Opinions??)
Last edited by Four Runner; 06-21-2007 at 11:30 PM.
#5
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So did you confirm that it's actually tranny fluid drops there, or could it be oil? I believe oil drops at that location are classic indicators of a rear main seal leak on the engine.
#7
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so you are thinking about converting it to 4WD? ....but that might not happen for awhile and you probably will be hitting "soft trails" in the 2WD mode with no low range transfer case option?
You're a candidate for 456 gears. You will still be able to comfortably do highway speeds with 31 or 32" tires mainly because the autos have such a fantastic OD.
I think just about EVERY auto should have a temp gauge....AND a large cooler directly up against the front of the radiator for better cooling when the going is slow.
I have both on my 2001 Taco
ZUK
edit----Regarding 2 pin vs 4 pin(V6) cases....ya, the 4 pin is stronger but your Runner with auto should live for a long time with a 2pin case. Now if you can find a V6 3rd then go for it. E-Locker are truly nice( I have one in my Taco) but a pain to wire up with the harness.
It's also possible to use the guts of a V6 3rd(the 4 pin case) and adapt it into the 2 pin 3rd you have....you just have to use adapter carrier bearings and they are commonly available.
Regarding the Aussie....they are not available yet in the V6 3rd(4 pin) application....but EZ Locker and Lockrite cover the V6. With your auto tranny the lockers will be much more friendly than with manual trannys. It will not clang and bang very much at all with an auto. The traction will be much better especially considering the extra weight over the rear the the Runners have.
V6 3rds have 4 fins....bigger carrier bearings....a bigger inner pinion bearing and usually a 4 pin case.
You're a candidate for 456 gears. You will still be able to comfortably do highway speeds with 31 or 32" tires mainly because the autos have such a fantastic OD.
I think just about EVERY auto should have a temp gauge....AND a large cooler directly up against the front of the radiator for better cooling when the going is slow.
I have both on my 2001 Taco
ZUK
edit----Regarding 2 pin vs 4 pin(V6) cases....ya, the 4 pin is stronger but your Runner with auto should live for a long time with a 2pin case. Now if you can find a V6 3rd then go for it. E-Locker are truly nice( I have one in my Taco) but a pain to wire up with the harness.
It's also possible to use the guts of a V6 3rd(the 4 pin case) and adapt it into the 2 pin 3rd you have....you just have to use adapter carrier bearings and they are commonly available.
Regarding the Aussie....they are not available yet in the V6 3rd(4 pin) application....but EZ Locker and Lockrite cover the V6. With your auto tranny the lockers will be much more friendly than with manual trannys. It will not clang and bang very much at all with an auto. The traction will be much better especially considering the extra weight over the rear the the Runners have.
V6 3rds have 4 fins....bigger carrier bearings....a bigger inner pinion bearing and usually a 4 pin case.
Last edited by ZUK; 06-22-2007 at 11:21 AM.
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#8
Dump the Auto
Mine started leaking real bad from that same spot on the way back from a camping trip a few weeks ago.
I refused to spend a dime on that transmission, had a 5spd swapped in.
One of the best things I have ever done, it is actually geared to low right now (5.29's). The 3.0 might not be the fastest but it is the auto that truly makes it a dog.
As long as you are going to 4WD not much more work (maybe less) to go to a manual.
I refused to spend a dime on that transmission, had a 5spd swapped in.
One of the best things I have ever done, it is actually geared to low right now (5.29's). The 3.0 might not be the fastest but it is the auto that truly makes it a dog.
As long as you are going to 4WD not much more work (maybe less) to go to a manual.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Will the O/E diff housing for the 2 pinion work with the aussie locker, or do I need to specifically ask for a 4 pinion at the yard?? (In other words, yeah, I don't know if it's the same thing, just needing good parts installed?)
You asked the above question to me in a pm....Aussie makes a locker for the 2 pinion cases....they make it for both the 27 spline axle and the 30 spline axle. It seems you would have to almost surely have the 30 spline axles and that means you have an 8" ring gear. The Aussie will work in your 8"....it won't work in the V6 version with the extra fin because Aussie has not finished designing that version yet. But , as I said earlier, you can get an EZ for the V6 version.
see this
http://aussielocker.com/make.php/TM546752/546f/20/.html
You asked the above question to me in a pm....Aussie makes a locker for the 2 pinion cases....they make it for both the 27 spline axle and the 30 spline axle. It seems you would have to almost surely have the 30 spline axles and that means you have an 8" ring gear. The Aussie will work in your 8"....it won't work in the V6 version with the extra fin because Aussie has not finished designing that version yet. But , as I said earlier, you can get an EZ for the V6 version.
see this
http://aussielocker.com/make.php/TM546752/546f/20/.html
#10
Banned for being an asshat
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ZUK
they make it for both the 27 spline axle and the 30 spline axle. It seems you would have to almost surely have the 30 spline axles and that means you have an 8" ring gear. The Aussie will work in your 8"....it won't work in the V6 version with the extra fin because Aussie has not finished designing that version yet.http://aussielocker.com/make.php/TM546752/546f/20/.html
Not sure which would be wiser/cheaper overall now though. If I goto all the trouble to get the gears right, and beefier components, I can just get a 4 fin 3rd, minus the Aussie. Probably would run anywhere from $200-$500(usd) if someone else did the labor for me (little spare time right now), or if I use the rig for what we originally intended it for, the Aussie's a nice addition and I'd have to add in the gears, which would push the cost up towards the $700-800(usd) range.
As far as dumping the auto idea, yeah it has it's merits, but the other person who would drive it sucks (sorry) with a manual tranny.
Maybe I outta start shopping now for another cherry to play with. Man, I spent six months looking for this one, to realize it had 3.90's and a 3 fin. Last time I miss that one. Always knew joining the forum would pay off, just was a bit behind on the whole 3 fin and gearing chart bit.
*Weren't some of the sill stickers wrong too, maybe I outta throw a couple spins on the driveshaft and figure out the ratio, that, or just unbolt the rear and see what color the top of the bolt's painted.
(What's the color on the 3.9's? I know 4.1's are pink or orange, 4.3's blue, and the 4.56's are yellow, right?)
Then again, the rig is clean, straight, low miles, and was very well kept, so who knows, the wife gets a nice grocery toy, and I could end up with one to play with, right?
Why am I worried so much, I think I'll just take it in Mon/Tues next week, since it still has a bit of the warranty left, and just have the seal fixed.
**Bonus is the leak did subside, and isn't overtly present anymore while daily driving, so guess I have some good karma coming at me.
Last edited by Four Runner; 06-22-2007 at 09:32 PM.
#12
My grandpas 92 4x4 pickup with the V6 auto has 4.88s in it. I just checked last night. It does well on the highway and has a fair amount of power and I'm guessing its from the low gearing.
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If you want to go to 4.10's or 4.88's, you should call some of the dismantlers in your area, you might find a complete third for less than what it would cost to re-gear yours. There are A LOT of 4.10 thirds out there, lots of 4.88's too, but no lockers of diffs are available for the funky factory 4.88 thirds.
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It's worth noting that these 31" upgraded 4runners still have a doorjam sticker that says 225 tires, at least my 93 does.
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If you want to go to 4.10's or 4.88's, you should call some of the dismantlers in your area, you might find a complete third for less than what it would cost to re-gear yours. There are A LOT of 4.10 thirds out there, lots of 4.88's too, but no lockers of diffs are available for the funky factory 4.88 thirds.
#17
Factory 4.88
If you want to go to 4.10's or 4.88's, you should call some of the dismantlers in your area, you might find a complete third for less than what it would cost to re-gear yours. There are A LOT of 4.10 thirds out there, lots of 4.88's too, but no lockers of diffs are available for the funky factory 4.88 thirds.
#18
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You know now that you mention it I think you're right, my brother had a funky 4.88 third and I'm pretty sure he had a lock-right in it. It's the gears that you're stuck with, not the diff- my bad! And you can always weld it if you hate your tires...
Last edited by SoCalWheeler71; 06-25-2007 at 09:43 PM.
#19
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Thread Starter
Havn't had the chance to check anything more out yet, long nite, long story.
*I'll let you all know what's what, hopefully within less than a week.
Notes:
~Not leaking visably anymore, so apparently it is a pressure spike, possibly related to having the ECT on, and the overdrive off, while climing the steep grade while "loaded down". Funny though, I remember that with a heavy load of any type, in this case, rear full of camping gear, you'd want the o/d off, not sure about the ECT, maybe it was both are supposed to be off in a case like this, but I wanted to be able to get into the 3-4k rpm's so as to keep up the speed for the pass since this is where the engine makes its most power.
~Definitely going to need the b.s. cork gasket the previous owner's shop put on the tranny pan when they did the fluid change fixed. The thing's getting brittle and leaks a very slight bit. Should be FIPG only like the oil pan, as far as I know, and I'm hoping there isn't a bit of it (cork gasket) in the filter or solenoid(s) that may be also part of this issue.
Oh, and by the way, thanks for all the help and info on this bit everyone.
Also, I knew I saw the post somewhere, and also that it was the other member with a user name like mine.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...c+Transmission
EDIT: Also, here's the cooler link from the post listed in the O/T: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
And finally SLOSURFER's O/T Post from last year..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...mission+cooler
Really still don't know what I did wrong with my search wording, but anyways...
Thanks Mods for not deleting anything or torching me.
..and whoever sent me the copy of ChickenLovers post!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-pics-115328/
.
*I'll let you all know what's what, hopefully within less than a week.
Notes:
~Not leaking visably anymore, so apparently it is a pressure spike, possibly related to having the ECT on, and the overdrive off, while climing the steep grade while "loaded down". Funny though, I remember that with a heavy load of any type, in this case, rear full of camping gear, you'd want the o/d off, not sure about the ECT, maybe it was both are supposed to be off in a case like this, but I wanted to be able to get into the 3-4k rpm's so as to keep up the speed for the pass since this is where the engine makes its most power.
~Definitely going to need the b.s. cork gasket the previous owner's shop put on the tranny pan when they did the fluid change fixed. The thing's getting brittle and leaks a very slight bit. Should be FIPG only like the oil pan, as far as I know, and I'm hoping there isn't a bit of it (cork gasket) in the filter or solenoid(s) that may be also part of this issue.
Oh, and by the way, thanks for all the help and info on this bit everyone.
Also, I knew I saw the post somewhere, and also that it was the other member with a user name like mine.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...c+Transmission
EDIT: Also, here's the cooler link from the post listed in the O/T: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
And finally SLOSURFER's O/T Post from last year..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...mission+cooler
Really still don't know what I did wrong with my search wording, but anyways...
Thanks Mods for not deleting anything or torching me.
..and whoever sent me the copy of ChickenLovers post!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-pics-115328/
.
Last edited by Four Runner; 07-02-2007 at 04:58 PM.
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