Sosborne

Ok, I know this is discussed to death. But I am not a big time enthusiast. I've read most of the stuff I can find on this subject too. However I want to make sure that I am doing things the way that will work out the best for me.

So here it goes. I need to replace my shocks and rear springs. So since I am at that I want to do a small lift. Now from reading and talking to Downey they recommend their coil kit and T-bars. But when I read here I notice the recommendations are cruiser coils and SDORI balljoint spacers.

My needs are a solid daily driver that can get me from point A to point B. And since I do custom construction in remote sites I need to get down construction roads and sometimes no roads at all. I like to do some very mild offroading too. What I need its a lift of around 1.5"-2" as I run 31x10.5s and dont need clearance for big tires. I think I will be going with Doetschtech shocks as Downey says there a nice blend between Bilstiens and common road shocks.

Thats all I got. I would appreciate any insight.

Thanks
Scott

94Runner4x4

I'm goin the new coils and BJ spacers route with new shocks all the way around. If you crank the t-bars it will be a stiffer ride but you will get the lift you want. If you go with Downey coils get the HD's. From what I've heard they work the best and have minimal if any sag over the years. But cruiser coils also work really well too. I haven't run downey but I have have Old Man Emu with Pro-comp rear shocks and it rides way better than my stock set-up ever did (obviously). Other than that I'm not too sure what your question is?

Gator

sounds like you've already figured it out:

1. 1.5" BJS
2. 1.5" Coil kit
3. Improved Shocks
4. 31x10.5-15's

That should do it.

Sosborne

Will I need to crank the stock T-bar up to get the front lift with the BJ spacers?

My truck body has 240k miles. And its all been in the salt belt. Should I consider changng the T-bars? Stock or oversized?

Thanks again
Scott

Jay351

No cranking needed to gain "lift" with the bj spacers. Put mine in and instand 1.5" lift and 1.5" added travel.

If you were asking downey of course they will recomend their own products.

I would go with the bj spacer, rear coils ( brand?) and some nice shocks.

I wouldnt go with a thicker t-bar. Thicker t-bar = stiffer suspension NOT added lift. Thats a common mistake people make associating thicker t-bars with lift.

elripster

With the spacers, you get 1.5" of lift when you install them. You can adjust up or down from there.

The tbar question is simple, do you want a stiffer ride? Stiffer bars flex less. If the answer is yes, you want it to ride stiffer, great get bigger bars. If you want more flex, stick with stock bars.

Another option for you to consider is the coil spacer/air shock option. That's what I run. It's good if you go from loaded to unloaded and want the truck to be level in both cases. The new coils will work well too.

Frank

Sosborne

I dont unload that much weight.

I was looking at the HD Downey coils.

I will more than likely be going with those BJ spacers. Should I go ahead and replace the upper BJs? They've got more than 100k on them.

Man I really want those D-ring things too. I drive the backroads during winter most of the time and I pull a lot of people out of the snow. So it would help.

Sosborne

Ok. So I just read and read...and read some more. Now I am more confused than ever. Should I use FJ80 coils? I don't really want more than 2" or 3"of lift. Would the LC coils give me more lift than that? With the Downey HD coils is my truck going to sit level? I would prefer a gradual rake to the frontend.

Cost doesn't seem to a determining factor in the choice. But what I dont want is an extreme lift.

Thanks
Scott

elripster

Well I can't help you on the coils but I like the D-rings. Even just one is nice to replace the stock tow hook. Two is better if you do a lot of recovery/being recovered since you can chose which is optimal for the situation but one is good to go.

Frank

Sosborne

Since no one is answering my question I did more reading and have kinda figured out that the FJ80 coils give you around 2-3 inches over stock...Is that correct? How pregressive are those springs? I tow a small trailer from time to time.

Now. Should I run a Panhard drop bracket? And should I use a 9" or 10" shock? I know that I will have to lower the LPSV and get a longer brake cable. And the ultimate question is how is my ride going to be on the highway?

Sosborne

So where's the place to get a panhard bracket and the longer brake line?

Can I fab my own LPSV drop bracket? Also I noticed that one of the rubber deals inside the current spring is broken off. Should I replace that when I change to FJ80 springs? Is there and aftermark version?

Thanks
Scott

elripster

For 2" you should not need a longer pan hard. Have you searched the net though for "toyota 4runner pan hard"? Actually, I don't think you need a longer brake line either. Have you contacted the lift kit retailer and asked what all the kit will come with?

I think you need to do a bit of your own foot work do you?

As for the drop (or raise bracket if you do it at the axle where it's easiest) I would think you could make your own. Do you have any fab skills or tools? Really only you can answer that.

You are talking about the bumpstop I believe and I would just use the stock one which you should be able to get cheaply at a junk yard. I do not know if an aftermarket version exists.

Frank

Sosborne

Been doing my own footwork. Cause apparently this group is not all that helpful. Infact I have been searching and reading threads about this for the last two days. However there are mounds of options. When it comes to answering all these questions. I thought that forums were suppose to help share experiance? I wasn't planning on getting a lift kit. Just FJ80 coils. I have read on other threads that most use Panhard drop brackets to correct any centering problems. But the information is somewhat conflicted in the threads about that method of lifting.

I fab acrylic's all the time. But since the tools are primarily woodworking based I don't know how applicable they are to the task. Its seems that its just a small piece of stock with holes in it. Does anyone have a template or measurements for it?

BTW...If the forum is about everyone going out and getting there own info...Then isn't the entire thing kind of moot?

Thanks
Scott

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

IFS Lift Kits for 1986-1995 4Runners and PickUps
http://www.wabfab.org/products/IFSlifts/IFS.htm

Sosborne

Thank you...I will buy not only sliders from you I will also buy my lift stuff.

Those 2" lift springs. Is that two inches from stock? Or from the droop that stock gets after time?

Thanks again
Scott

Sosborne

To refine my question. Will my truck sit level with that 2" lft kit?

1990Runner

I delt with Downey and i didnt like their people skills. They couldnt even give me a total cost of my part with the shipping. the guy said "well the part is around 20 bucks and the shipping should be 6-10 so like 26-30 i guess" then it was actually cheaper which is cool but still, come on dude. I just ordered from wabbit and i was great. IMO downey sucks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I am going to assume from your avatar that you hae a 2nd gen 4Runner.

The 2" lift springs are 2" over a new OEM spring.

Sosborne

Kinda agree. When I ordered my IFS brace things were tough with them. Waited a long to get it. I was already getting my sliders from wabfab

Sosborne

Yep its a '94. So with that kit I dont need to change the brake line or the LPSV location?