YES, I'm new to Yotas
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolingrbook, IL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YES, I'm new to Yotas
Left the Jeep world this week and got an 86 Shortbed 4X4 with a 22R. Engine was rebuilt 30K ago and sounds like it is running great. It's been a long time since I've had a carburated vehicle. Cold start in the morning takes a good 30 to 45 seconds of cranking before a rough start. After a minute of idle with NO pedal, it runs great, even after an extended stop of several hours.
The problem is just that morning start. I'm guessing a spring in the choke or the electric choke(?) is hosed, not working,, needs cleaning, etc??
I've only had this thing 2 days. I've yet to pull the breather and check all lines and such and figure I need to hose it down with cleaner pretty good too. Do you guys run Sea Foam though the carb and motors like the 4.0 litre guys in Jeeps do, or is it at all necessary with the stock carb??
I'll see what transpires (or not) after checking all lines, vacuum, hoses, wires and such to the carb. Picked up a Haynes manual but am waiting on the FSM to get into the details. The Haynes is too damn generic.
I'm looking at the carb mods out there to make some gains and so I can lose the huge breather. On that note, does the engine compartment have a major effect on air intake temp? I know in EFI, the colder the air, the better.
Thanks for listening...
The New Guy!!!
The problem is just that morning start. I'm guessing a spring in the choke or the electric choke(?) is hosed, not working,, needs cleaning, etc??
I've only had this thing 2 days. I've yet to pull the breather and check all lines and such and figure I need to hose it down with cleaner pretty good too. Do you guys run Sea Foam though the carb and motors like the 4.0 litre guys in Jeeps do, or is it at all necessary with the stock carb??
I'll see what transpires (or not) after checking all lines, vacuum, hoses, wires and such to the carb. Picked up a Haynes manual but am waiting on the FSM to get into the details. The Haynes is too damn generic.
I'm looking at the carb mods out there to make some gains and so I can lose the huge breather. On that note, does the engine compartment have a major effect on air intake temp? I know in EFI, the colder the air, the better.
Thanks for listening...
The New Guy!!!
Last edited by Rocketman; 05-31-2007 at 09:17 AM.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome! My brother has a 2000 XJ, the lone holdout for Jeeps in my family... Can't help with the truck, but I'm sure one of the great people on this board will have an idea here in 5...4...3...2...1...
Again, welcome.
Again, welcome.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My '84 was always hard to cold start. I got into a routine of four pumps of the gas pedal wait 20 seconds and start. If I did that it usually fired right up. In below zero starts sometimes had to spray starter fluid right in the carb. I worked on a lot of things on that truck but never felt comfortable working on the carb.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolingrbook, IL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I learned back when I had a 67 Buick GS340 you don't futz around with a carb unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing. I made the carb and car completely un-startable by farting around with the carb. Ended up having to buy a new one. Even an experienced mechanic said I had so screwed up the settings it would have taken a complete rebuild by the manual to get it running again.
I can tear apart a throttle body in a second and put it together and reattach the IAC, linkage and TPS in my sleep though!!
I can tear apart a throttle body in a second and put it together and reattach the IAC, linkage and TPS in my sleep though!!
#5
well, welcome to the yota world. lol. as for the carbed motor, dunno. efi for me. u could always consider an engine swap... lol. maybe if u screw up the engine u got now. good luck though.
#7
Registered User
I've never messed with a yota carb, but carbs in general are super simple to work on and they all use the same basic principles.
In your case I'd make sure the choke and accelerator pump are both working correctly and focus on finding the "start up drill" that works best for your truck.
I would think 3-5 pumps of the pedal (only when cold!) before cranking would get her going for you assuming both the choke and AP are working correctly...
It may just need a good cleaning too...
The thing to remember about carburetors is to count the turns from seated on every adjustment screw you mess with. Just lightly seat it and count the turns on the way in ( a small mark with a black marker makes this easier) and write down all the baseline settings. That way no matter how bad you get it out of whack you can always put it back where it was.
In your case I'd make sure the choke and accelerator pump are both working correctly and focus on finding the "start up drill" that works best for your truck.
I would think 3-5 pumps of the pedal (only when cold!) before cranking would get her going for you assuming both the choke and AP are working correctly...
It may just need a good cleaning too...
The thing to remember about carburetors is to count the turns from seated on every adjustment screw you mess with. Just lightly seat it and count the turns on the way in ( a small mark with a black marker makes this easier) and write down all the baseline settings. That way no matter how bad you get it out of whack you can always put it back where it was.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Dinwiddie Virginia
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have a choke problem. Not adjusting air/fuel mix. If the flap sticks open then you get a high ratio of air to fuel. It will struggle to start,but once it warms up then everything will be fine. When starting you will need a higher ratio of gas to air.
Hope that makes sense.
Hope that makes sense.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolingrbook, IL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it does... that's what I was thinking. Has to be choke. I pump the hell out of it for 45 seconds or so, then keep cranking for another 5 with no pedal and it begins to stutter start. The first minute of warm up, if I touch the pedal it will die. After that it runs great all day.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Richmond Va.
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carbed yotas also have a cold start control on them. I have an 86 carbed, and even on cold days. 2 pumps and it starts up, and a few secs its ready to roll. Check all your linkages and vacuum lines first
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've had two carbed Yota trucks and had the same issue with both. One was a 1981 with a 20R and the other was an 84 with the 22R. The 84 took 20 pumps of the pedal to start after sitting for a couple of days. I never fixed it becasue I went through a whole lot of crap trying to fix the 81. It actually had two issues. One was that the choke mechanism was trashed and the other was that the carb itself would lose it's prime. I rebuilt the carb and futzed with the choke for ever and never got it quite right. Now I have EFI.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolingrbook, IL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK... here's some pics from stage 1 of the build on my truck. Stage 1 was basically making sure everything is functional, cleaning chassis and entire suspension, new tires 31X15 BFG AT's, cut the rotted bed sides off and put on new/temp rear lights.
The trail testing will begin at the Cliffs this weekend or next. After that, Detroit's front and rear along with re-gearing to at least 4.56. I'll probably go with the OME lift after that with a 1" body lift to allow for 33" LTB's. I want a flat bed, simple yet functional, able to hold a tool box, spare meat, CO2 and the occasional load of lumber from Lowe's or the BORG.
Last stage would be an SAS with coil overs.
Oh well, onto the pics. BTW this rig must have been brought up from the Southwest or CA as the frame and cab are in too good of shape for a 21 year old vehicle in the Midwest.
1 last thing... I have to paint this thing to get rid of the hideous stripes.
The trail testing will begin at the Cliffs this weekend or next. After that, Detroit's front and rear along with re-gearing to at least 4.56. I'll probably go with the OME lift after that with a 1" body lift to allow for 33" LTB's. I want a flat bed, simple yet functional, able to hold a tool box, spare meat, CO2 and the occasional load of lumber from Lowe's or the BORG.
Last stage would be an SAS with coil overs.
Oh well, onto the pics. BTW this rig must have been brought up from the Southwest or CA as the frame and cab are in too good of shape for a 21 year old vehicle in the Midwest.
1 last thing... I have to paint this thing to get rid of the hideous stripes.
Last edited by Rocketman; 06-25-2007 at 07:05 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LittleUgly
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
15
01-02-2020 01:30 PM
primordialbeast117
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
11
12-19-2015 12:23 PM