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WTF!!!!!!! AC Retrofit

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Old 07-24-2008, 12:44 PM
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WTF!!!!!!! AC Retrofit

Given i am in a horrid mood today, I went out and bought a retrofit kit to get my AC working. I watched the movie it came with. I attached the adapters, i grab the can of refridgerant and go to attach the hose to the fitting and...........................................

I cannot get the hose end to go ver the fitting to put the refridgerant in. No matter what i did. I pulled the fitting off, put it on thehose and tried to get it to fit. I really do not want to remove the compressor and try to get the hose on then try it that way, onyl to have to remove the compressor. So I am just livid. Is there a 90 degree adapter to use for this? It is a 22RE compresor. How did you all do this? Or is this particular kit have a thicker hose end.

I had to walk away i was going to break something.
Old 07-24-2008, 01:20 PM
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I didn't have a problem with my Wally World bought kit.
Old 07-24-2008, 01:22 PM
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That should be the same one i bought. It is kind of hard to get a pic, heck i could bareley get my hands in there. I may just have to try afn grind down some of the plastic housing.
Old 07-24-2008, 05:07 PM
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Well i ended up loosening the bolts to move the compressor and was able to connect the filler hose. I filled it as per directions. BUT I only was able to get about 3/4 of a bottle in it before it got to "normal charge" as per the gauge. IT makes me wonder since it was at zero PSI when i first put the gauge on so i thoguht it was completely empty. Well i felt the air comnig from the vents and it was "cooler" but not icey cold. Another problem is, after it was all done adn said the compressor was REALLY HOT. Both lines from it were also hot so i think there is more to this than i can do, unless the compressor gets hot normally. So i am a bit bummin.
Old 07-27-2008, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DanStew
Well i ended up loosening the bolts to move the compressor and was able to connect the filler hose. I filled it as per directions. BUT I only was able to get about 3/4 of a bottle in it before it got to "normal charge" as per the gauge. IT makes me wonder since it was at zero PSI when i first put the gauge on so i thoguht it was completely empty. Well i felt the air comnig from the vents and it was "cooler" but not icey cold. Another problem is, after it was all done adn said the compressor was REALLY HOT. Both lines from it were also hot so i think there is more to this than i can do, unless the compressor gets hot normally. So i am a bit bummin.

Several things:

Since the system is/was "empty" then it's full of air now (before you started). You must pull all that out, that is pull a vacuum. That'll give you a chance to see if it leaks, that is won't hold a vacuum.

Contrary to what a lot of the silly muppets will tell you, it's not as easy (to do it correctly and have a long lasting problem free system) as plopping on the new fittings and filling the system with R134a. The oils used with the R12 and R134a systems are not compatible. The expansion valve or orifice tube (can't remember which one yours has) should always be replaced. The receiver/dryer should be replaced. The system should be completely flushed to remove any of the old oil and any debris that may clogged things out.



Fred
Old 07-27-2008, 10:59 AM
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silly muppet #392 here....

POE (polyester oil) is compatible with both hcfc12 and hfc134a. Most over the counter retrofit kits contain POE (polyester oil). POE acts as a buffer and emulsifier allowing the mineral oil used with r12 to remain in the system. Neither HFC134a cans with PAG, nor PAG oil charge cans, should be used in a retrofit if it has not been flushed.
the accumulator (receiver/drier) should be replaced any time the system is opened.
the expansion valve does not have to be replaced, but should.

just because best practices says such-and-such is a certain way, doesn't mean it's always the only way.

found the following here:
Flushing is also a controversial subject because the vehicle manufacturers do not agree on which technique works best or even if it works at all. Ford approves flushing with VSL338 terpene-based solvent while GM says its okay to flush but only with R134a, no solvents. Chrysler and Toyota do not recommend flushing. If the system is contaminated and contains debris, Chrysler says it is safer to replace the condenser and hoses. Flushing may dislodge most of the debris in a serpentine flow condenser, but does not work very well in parallel flow condensers.

Last edited by abecedarian; 07-27-2008 at 11:23 AM.
Old 04-22-2016, 08:30 AM
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replace the o rings
Old 04-22-2016, 09:12 AM
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He says...nearly 8 years after the fact. Very helpful. NOT!

You know what would be helpful?

If you'd find something better to do today besides posting in a bunch of long dead AC threads. Maybe study up on proper forum etiquette.
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