SMOD

I've never had any problems of over heating. I got the harmonic balancer off with a screwdriver jammed in the flywheel. And I'd love the 3.4 or 4.3 vortec but right now not an option. So I actually was searching around and found a remanufactured head for 300 for the driver side, http://www.toyotatruckengine.com/rem...5-driver-side/ so instead of replacing the valve myself or getting mine redone at a machine shop I'm just going to buy this remanufactured head and replace the head gasket on that side so I'd be looking at maybe around 400 all said and done. Still haven't pulled the head off so I'm doing that before I order any parts. I know I should do this all on the passenger side and probably will when I can afford it. I'm going to have to deal with the code 14 after this too which I was told is non related to the code 25 caused by the crappy running engine bad valve. Just an igniter is 180 at oreily so there's that cost too if its that and fixing the oil leak cost.

SMOD

I was reading the 'head gasket time' thread and didn't realize oil could be leaking from the head gasket. My leak is coming from the passenger side top of the engine which I thought was the plug on the rear of the valve cover but I don't really see oil near like the firewall back there. I haven't performed a leak down test yet either so I guess I should do that to see if I can see bubbles in the radiator indicating a bad head gasket. It doesn't over heat and I can't see oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. So if I had to do the head gasket on the passenger side too I'd hate having to do it over after a valve goes bad on that side. I'll be looking at about 1k for new reman. heads, new head bolts, new head gaskets and then my other problems. I have until the end of march to get it smoged. I still just want to do this the cheapest way and I think 1k would be about the cheapest. I don't know about this oil pump, knock sensor etc. listed on this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-time-286372/ I just can't afford that. I'll have to save for the 1k and probably just make it in time for smog.

donomite49

when you do the leakdown test you can listen for a hissing sound in the intake and exhaust.

either way doesn't really matter, you have to take it apart to fix it. unless you are going to do one head to get back on the road easiest/cheapest.

Gevo

Smod, as I see you are already in the FIY spirit, I just thought Id pop in and give you some moral suiport ti boost your confidence. I used this site (and couple others) to gain the confidence and knowledge I needed to do a LOT of work on my now 1.2 years old to me 4runner. Remember lot of info has been covered over and over again so try searching first, but as youve noticed lots of great help here!

Also, you can get your whole engine rebuilt for 1600 bucks, all you have to do is remove and install. So keep that in mind as you are sourcing replacement heads and other parts/work you may need.

SMOD

Yeah I found another thread on here with some good info. I heard someone got their heads done for 100 a piece at a machine shop! then with the gasket set it was like 470 odd dollars. Now that sounds like a deal to me! I went to the Reibes machine shop today and they said it would be between 700-1000 bucks to redo my heads! He said they do them better than the remanufactured heads. 1600 isn't too bad considering if heads could cost 1k or maybe even more. Where can I get a rebuild at 1600? I'm going to shop around for the machining and maybe score a good price somewhere first. I was wondering how would the bottom end hold up compared to the new heads? Earlier in this post someone said I could potentially get 100 more thousand miles if I just get my heads done. I'm just wondering how long the block will last before needs rebuild.

Gevo

I think the shop that did my engine was around 300 for the pair.

Cookie Monster

Im sure if you pull the head off, and bring it in bare, they wont charge you as much. If not, find another machine shop.

Am i beating on a dead horse saying find a good running motor/parts truck? Ive had good luck buying a used motor locally. At least then you have something on the road while you build a motor ready for another 100k miles+

SMOD

Okay so I called around to the next couple towns down and it looks like I will be able to get the heads done for ~$500 cheapest I could find. I started the tear down process and so far so good. I broke the crankcase vent valve or vacuum valve whichever its really called. That was $50 just like that lol.

So a few questions:
The bottom block on these 3vze engines rarely go bad? But I really don't think mine is and my mechanic said that the 20psi in the bad cylinder indicated that the bottom end is okay and most likely just a bad valve.

Where can I find the knock sensor pigtail for sale? EDIT: Found it in another thread.

Should I replace my oil pump? I've heard from a previous mechanic of mine that oil pumps are usually good for the life of the vehicle.

scope103

Machine shop prices are all over the place, and they don't necessarily correlate with how good a job they do. Spend some time shopping, and ask questions. I paid just under $500 for a pair of heads AND the gasket set back in 2007. I got perfectly serious prices for more than twice that.

I didn't replace the oil pump when I did mine.

Don't lose sight that you're working on a truck that's 23-years old. Even if the engine is perfect (and would last another 200,000) you could lose the transmission, front end, a/c, etc. You want to get the best bang for your buck.

SMOD

I called around to machine shops in my town and two towns down, can't go much further than that unless it was Sacramento which is an hour away which isn't really a good option because I'd have to drop off then go pick them up too. But yeah the shops I did call were different in how they priced things but pretty similar in prices. In my town at Reibes they wanted 700 so out of town for 500 sounds pretty good to me compared. It could be 450 one shop said too. I'm pretty much okay with paying that to avoid going to Sac which I haven't priced them there yet. Just trying to be thorough with the job. Appreciate the help. The site really gave me the confidence to do it myself

Thinking about how I'm going to get the cam sprockets off and how to torque them back on and how to get off the crank shaft gear (maybe have to drill and tap holes) But I haven't tried it yet though so still gotta do that

Oh yeah and my new timing belt I took off and noticed some fibers on the front edge of it but its brand new. Could this be from the timing cover not going on perfectly right or something. I'm confused

bg_

SMOD, many cam sprocket removal tool designs are on this site. The one
I went with (I just did this job a month ago) was simple and only required a 2x4, not sure of which member originally posted this...but it's awesome, and also works on the harmonic balancer.

I took my old timing belt (cut) and screwed one side of it into the 2 in side of the 2x4 (teeth side down). Leave enough on the working end to wrap 1 1/2 times around the sprocket. You then wrap it around the sprocket and place to the 2x4 on the ground or fender (use a towel if on the fender!) Viola. Also, if you have an impact wrench this is a hell of a lot easier.

PS- I also used this tool on my harmonic balancer BUT needed to bring a little more belt out to get around the wider balancer. So, if you plan on using it for both, measure for the balancer. (the extra won't make a difference on the cams.)

Good on you for doing it yourself. I was intimidated as hell, cursed myself for getting into it halfway through, and happier than a pig in ˟˟˟˟ when it turned over after. Overall, a very doable repair.

SMOD

Thanks for the encouragement! And I would be cursing all hell if it was my only vehicle. Best thing I did was get 97 Camry I absolutely love it and did tons of work to it too like new struts, tie rods, sway bar links, timing belt, etc. and the parts are dirt cheap! It has 220k on the original engine and it runs like a dream and it is seriously the most comfortable car I've ever been in and I'm a pretty big dude lol. Anyways I used the screwdriver in the flywheel trick for getting off the harmonic balancer. It has worked great for me and my crank shaft gear popped right off with a couple screwdrivers thank God. And now I'm at the cam sprockets and pretty much am stuck. I have read about the bolting the old timing belt to a 2x4 method only problem is my timing belt is new and the old one has been thrown away. On my last post I said the timing belt had the fibers around it and I figured out it was just a little too close to the washer on the crank gear is the only thing I can think of, so I will make sure that clears well when I put it back on. The kicking the starter trick won't work as I've already taken everything off and not sure if I'd wanna do that anyway for fear of stretching my new timing belt. I was thinking about trying to rent a cam sprocket holding tool and use a long pipe on it to hold the sprocket while I wrench it off with another pipe on a breaker bar. I did hear that only a Toyota holding tool would work though is that because of the lip on the cam sprocket being too wide?

SMOD

Update. Got the cam sprockets off by putting a wrench on the 10mm bolt holding on the back plate and the spoke of the sprocket. I didn't even need someone else to do either. I tried making a tool with a 2x6 of wood and two bolts but the wood was old and split so it just split so the other way worked getting it off but don't think it will to torque it back on so I'll try to give it another go with the wood or maybe renting a holding tool with a metal pipe on it.

Also I stripped a stud or two getting off the headers and cross pipe so I'll need new one of those. Does that come with a gasket kit? Or I'll try to look around for new ones.

Edit: I was advised to replace the knock sensor along with the pigtail. I looked around a little online and found a knock sensor for 100 bucks! ugh. Not sure what to do. I do want the best bang for my buck. If I get a new one of these and an oil pump I'm out 200! Just longer it will take to get this back together.

SMOD

I have been having a fun time finding odd ball parts. I found exhaust studs at the local oreily but I can't find the studs to the exhaust manifold (they are a little longer than the other exhaust studs). Anyone know the part number?

Dropped off my heads at a shop in auburn, should have them back next week and all my parts to start putting it back together. Just looking for these studs now and then I'm pretty sure I'll have everything.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

See you are making progress. One step at a time and you will get there. I suggest getting your studs and nuts at the dealer. They are reasonably priced. Not sure on the 3.0 but on the 22r motor I just replace them from the dealer when doing exhaust work. Seems to me that once the nuts have been installed they just dont hold on as well if you try to reuse them.

I would bet your Knock Sensor is good and just a bad wire in my opinion.

Gevo

A word of advice from my experience: In the first picture, there is a coolant bypass pipe running from the front of the engine to the back and it forks out to the left side. The shop that did my rebuild did not clean or check that pipe, although not leaking it was completely blocked form crud. Once I got the engine with the heads and intake manifold installed, no way I was about to take it all of for that. So, make sure all of hte coolant pipes and passages are clean before putting everything back together.

Great progress. You will be fine if you've made it this far!

SMOD

The machine shop called and my heads are cracked. Dont know if its just one or both, gotta call on my lunch. Should i just get the remanufactured heads? I thought remanufactured heads use original oem heads rebuilt but i read on here thwy arent? Ugh of course had to happen to me.

Gargoyle_Runner

Preaching to the choir....

SMOD

So I called and both of them are cracked. He said 1,000 bucks for new heads and the guts out of mine. Remans are 650 roughly which he does not reccomend. After finding this out i have to wonder if my bottom block could be cracked too. Is there a way i can test it myself? I need some input thanks guys

Shady Cadence

Blocks are not subject to the heat stress that heads are, it's most likely fine.