Wiring a brake controller in an '89 4Runner
#1
Wiring a brake controller in an '89 4Runner
I need to put a brake controller in a 1989 4Runner, 22re, auto. I suppose it would be too much to hope for that one of those dangling connections (I think there are about 10 of them, all unmarked) under the dash will plug into an adapter that I can get somewhere so that I can avoid searching out the right wires and making some iffy connections...?
Assuming an adapter-to-connector setup is not possible, has anyone put a controller in a 1st gen. 4Runner? Are the wires needed readily accessible under the dash?
What about running a 12v line to the 6-pin adapter for a camper? Where should that line, ideally, come from? I assume I need an inline fuse?
One last thing--I am still not finding any air shocks, air bags, or other types of air supports for the rear end of this truck. Anybody have a source?
Thanks!
Assuming an adapter-to-connector setup is not possible, has anyone put a controller in a 1st gen. 4Runner? Are the wires needed readily accessible under the dash?
What about running a 12v line to the 6-pin adapter for a camper? Where should that line, ideally, come from? I assume I need an inline fuse?
One last thing--I am still not finding any air shocks, air bags, or other types of air supports for the rear end of this truck. Anybody have a source?
Thanks!
#2
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all you'll need to do is find the wire to the brake light switch under the dash- the one that goes 'hot' when you step on the brakes, and wire that to the controller, then run a wire back to the trailer hitch / plug.
Considering things, I recommend using a 7 wire trailer plug with 'blade' connections. The reason is due to the fact you can adapt down a 7 wire plug down to a 6, 5 and 4 wire trailer plug more easily than you can wire a 4, 5 or 6 up to a 7 wire- adapters from 7 to the others are available off the shelf. Also, your truck has separate turn signal and brake lights (amber turns, red brakes) so you'll want to install a light converter near the trailer plug.
Optionally, you could use a 9 wire plug to accomodate a trailer with and without separate brake and turn signals, but the wiring is messy at best.
As for a charge line, a 10 or 8 gauge wire from the battery with a 20 amp self-resetting circuit breaker near the battery is the best option. You'll want the charge line to be connected to the trailer's safety 'break-away' battery as well as any onboard system battery. I recommend some sort of isolation system between the two though so that the break-away battery isn't supplying power to any 12v systems in the trailer.
How to wire everything depends mostly on the plug you install at the rear.
You can PM me if you'd like.
Considering things, I recommend using a 7 wire trailer plug with 'blade' connections. The reason is due to the fact you can adapt down a 7 wire plug down to a 6, 5 and 4 wire trailer plug more easily than you can wire a 4, 5 or 6 up to a 7 wire- adapters from 7 to the others are available off the shelf. Also, your truck has separate turn signal and brake lights (amber turns, red brakes) so you'll want to install a light converter near the trailer plug.
Optionally, you could use a 9 wire plug to accomodate a trailer with and without separate brake and turn signals, but the wiring is messy at best.
As for a charge line, a 10 or 8 gauge wire from the battery with a 20 amp self-resetting circuit breaker near the battery is the best option. You'll want the charge line to be connected to the trailer's safety 'break-away' battery as well as any onboard system battery. I recommend some sort of isolation system between the two though so that the break-away battery isn't supplying power to any 12v systems in the trailer.
How to wire everything depends mostly on the plug you install at the rear.
You can PM me if you'd like.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-06-2008 at 04:47 PM.
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