winding/ whirring/buzzing noise when clutch is let up, goes away when clutch pressed
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winding/ whirring/buzzing noise when clutch is let up, goes away when clutch pressed
I just bought a 1990 Pickup, 4x4, 5spd, 22RE, 130k miles on original engine & transmission. The guy I bought it from made me aware of this noise & said it may be the input shaft bearing. When I let off of the clutch to drive, there is a winding/ whirring sound, it gets louder as I shift up through the gears & increase speed. It shifts smooth, drives smooth, makes great power, & doesn’t seem to effect the performance/ driving at all, 4low, 4high, 2high all work, hubs lock & unlock, everything seems to work fine as far as the transmission/ drive train goes- except for that sound. The noise is there when I accelerate, & there when I decelerate, it goes away when I press the clutch down, & it goes away when the engine speed seems to match the transmission speed (meaning when it’s neither accelerating, nor decelerating, just right in between) What could it be? What would happen if I just left it be & didn’t fix it? My mechanical ability is not bad, but I’m mostly good at tinkering with engines- I’ve never messed with a transmission before & this is my first 4x4. Help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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It's your pilot bearing. If it isn't fixed soon, your input shaft bearing is going to toast itself from wobbling and wiggling.
The part is going to cost $4. But while you're in there,
clutch disc - make sure you place the flywheel side against flywheel, stamped on disc
pressure plate - 14 ft-lb torque when reinstalling or 168 inch - pounds.
flywheel resurface is 30-40 and new one is $60. I purchased a new one.
rear main seal - pry out with screwdriver, 2 bolts coming up from oilpan also, replace gaskets and rtv silicone on bottom against oil pan.
throwout bearing - need a vice or a hydraulic press to change. Could change fork, and clamps if you want.
transmission input shaft seal / gasket
transmission gear oil 75w-90 4.1 qt
I also replaced slave cylinder - master cylinder and replacing the entire steel line between them with braided lines.
Took me 3 days, dawn til dusk ... pry bar, ratchet strap, air gun/compressor, breaker bar, torque wrench 3/8" drive, 2 inch extension, hydraulic floor jack and 2 jack stands.
To get to the 2 bellhousing bolts on back of engine next to firewall, unbolt transfercase from cross member then jack up were of tranny (before removing bottom bellhousing bolts) and it's 17mm bolt. Regular wrench, no crescent wrench will fit.
Good luck.
The part is going to cost $4. But while you're in there,
clutch disc - make sure you place the flywheel side against flywheel, stamped on disc
pressure plate - 14 ft-lb torque when reinstalling or 168 inch - pounds.
flywheel resurface is 30-40 and new one is $60. I purchased a new one.
rear main seal - pry out with screwdriver, 2 bolts coming up from oilpan also, replace gaskets and rtv silicone on bottom against oil pan.
throwout bearing - need a vice or a hydraulic press to change. Could change fork, and clamps if you want.
transmission input shaft seal / gasket
transmission gear oil 75w-90 4.1 qt
I also replaced slave cylinder - master cylinder and replacing the entire steel line between them with braided lines.
Took me 3 days, dawn til dusk ... pry bar, ratchet strap, air gun/compressor, breaker bar, torque wrench 3/8" drive, 2 inch extension, hydraulic floor jack and 2 jack stands.
To get to the 2 bellhousing bolts on back of engine next to firewall, unbolt transfercase from cross member then jack up were of tranny (before removing bottom bellhousing bolts) and it's 17mm bolt. Regular wrench, no crescent wrench will fit.
Good luck.
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Thanks dude. Do you think If I had a Chiltons/ Haynes book I could do it myself? Would any fluids need to be drained? What specialty tools would I need? And how do i check my tranny fluid?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Changing rear main seal ? - Drain oil
Changing tranny front seal ? - drain tranny fluid
You can do an entire clutch kit (napa $130) without changing fluids.
You will need a pilot bearing puller ( the one from autozone DOES NOT FIT )
I ended up just "dremeling" the inside of the bearing in an x pattern, then hitting it with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. Then I used the autozone pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. $45 rental, full refund.
Changing tranny front seal ? - drain tranny fluid
You can do an entire clutch kit (napa $130) without changing fluids.
You will need a pilot bearing puller ( the one from autozone DOES NOT FIT )
I ended up just "dremeling" the inside of the bearing in an x pattern, then hitting it with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. Then I used the autozone pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. $45 rental, full refund.
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It's a manual. sealed system, no dipstick..
I can't believe you just asked me that, no offense. I'm almost tempted to give you my damn phone number so I can explain some things to you .....
I can't believe you just asked me that, no offense. I'm almost tempted to give you my damn phone number so I can explain some things to you .....
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Changing rear main seal ? - Drain oil
Changing tranny front seal ? - drain tranny fluid
You can do an entire clutch kit (napa $130) without changing fluids. <---- pilot bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing is included in kit and also alignment tool
You will need a pilot bearing puller ( the one from autozone DOES NOT FIT )
I ended up just "dremeling" the inside of the bearing in an x pattern, then hitting it with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. Then I used the autozone pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. $45 rental, full refund.
Changing tranny front seal ? - drain tranny fluid
You can do an entire clutch kit (napa $130) without changing fluids. <---- pilot bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing is included in kit and also alignment tool
You will need a pilot bearing puller ( the one from autozone DOES NOT FIT )
I ended up just "dremeling" the inside of the bearing in an x pattern, then hitting it with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. Then I used the autozone pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. $45 rental, full refund.
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Bro, please excuse my stupidity! I've done a clutch job in my '95 Accord before, so I'm sure I can manage this, I just don't want to spend the $750+ the shops have been quoting me. If there's anything else I need to know before diving into this, be sure & let me know. I'm going to buy that Napa clutch kit right now. So you're pretty sure that if I do this, thet noise will go away? What do you think aout the input shaft bearing idea? Thanks!
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Bro, please excuse my stupidity! I've done a clutch job in my '95 Accord before, so I'm sure I can manage this, I just don't want to spend the $750+ the shops have been quoting me. If there's anything else I need to know before diving into this, be sure & let me know. I'm going to buy that Napa clutch kit right now. So you're pretty sure that if I do this, thet noise will go away? What do you think aout the input shaft bearing idea? Thanks!
When you have the tranny out, wiggle the shaft. If it moves, replace the bearing while you have the front cover out.
Drain tranny fluid before you drop it (makes it light, and is easier).
fill tranny before you put it back up in truck (easier than when it's installed but it does make it heavier by a few pounds.
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No problem dude, i'm going to pm you my cell number. I literally am just wrapping up this project, so give me a call and i'll give you some advice on short cuts for tools and such.
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Yeah bro, I'm sure I could do it, but I don't know how I'd get the transmission back in once I pulled it, since I'd be on my back, I've never messed with a transmission before. We can do it this weekend if you like- It's not my daily driver. How much would you charge me? I think you should at least test drive it & hear the noise for yourself. If you do it right, I'll promise to make you my car guy! $$$ I left my car guy (my childhood friend) when I moved up here from CA. So what do you think it would cost me?