Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

Been looking around for a good, secure solution for a console for my truck, and want something that I can relocated my stereo to, since my dash is falling apart, and, well, it would be cool to have it all neatly locked away for when my top is off in the summer.

I found this, and I've seen it mentioned here before. However, it's 8" wide, and the space between my seats is less than that. I wouldn't mind it rubbing on the seats, but the seat belt mounts look as if they may get in the way with the mount.

My question is, has anyone successfully mounted this thing in a first gen, and if so, are there any caveats/tips?

Thanks

http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/pr...dproduct=-6883

myyota

If you have the stock seats your console can`t be any wider than about 6'', you might be able to squeeze in a console thats 6-1/2'' to 7'' but it would be a very tight fit, if you could get it to fit, but an 8'' console deffinatly won`t fit.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

6.5" yes

8" no

bb7110

I can tell you with all the confidence in the world the biggest box you can get in there without cutting the seats and the seat belts apart is about 7" wide. Check out my build thread. I had the same idea, but ended up fabbing the box myself.
https://www.yotatech.com/f191/bb7110.../#post51417812

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys for the replies. Since I hadn't seen many threads on this I figured it was too large.

BB7110 - I've seen your thread - you did great work! My fab skills and tools aren't in the league, so I'm looking for another solution....maybe someday.

Appreciate the quick replies!

Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

actually, BB7110, I mistook your post/project for another similar one I'd seen a few weeks back - he crammed the stereo into his fabbed center console, just like the Tuffy box (but smaller of course!).

Good luck with your project - I remember your post on the terrible suspension you inherited from the PO

fireyota

I built a console out of 1/2" OSB, or the wood you make speaker boxes out. I bough the wood @ Lowes for $23 and a lock set and an "L" bracket for $5. The console is 21" long, 7" wide. The console is 11" high with a 14 1/2" lid. It has two cupholders and a small storage place behind the cupholders. If you would like pictures I will try and post them. After the box is painted I will make a tonneau cover for the rear out of 3/4" OSB.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

That sounds great - I'd love to see photos and I'm sure others here would too, if you don't mind!

I guess I'm most frustrated because I want to find a solution that allows for DIN size (2x7" stereo standard) installation with a locking cover. I supposed one could install the radio to be perpendicular to the dash instead of parallel (i.e. vertically mounted, facing the driver). But then you may have some issues with CD playback if mounted 100% vertically....sigh.

bb7110

Philbert- It didn't take incredible fab skills, especially if you have your local steel yard make the cuts for you. I did it with basic tools and a basic Mig 120, but had the luxury of a plasma cutter to assist with the cutting. Good luck either way tho! I'd love to see pictures of your final setup!
FWIW, On PBB, I've seem guys use ammo cans that lock as center arm rests. They might be wide enough to fit a DIN HU... (?)
Fireyota- I would love to see pictures of your set up. I am still pondering the best use of space for the area between the seats with the cup holders. Also, I think you mean MDF. Orienteted strand board (OSB) is the nasty chip board that is super weak (when thin) and is made of gnarly chips of wood typically used in housing construction. MDF is used in speaker boxes, is made of a wood pulp, is super hard, and smooth to the touch.

fireyota

bb7110 I am confused about your question of space between the seats. The point of building this console is the factory had no cupholders. The console is almost finished. I am going to paint the console with a rust-o-leum hammered finish. I tried to coats on some scraps pieces and it wicked the water off pretty good after drying. If anyone is wondering about the window and wiper switches, I have not found a place for the switches. I might mount them behind the cupholders. I don't use the rear window switch anyway, I bypassed the factory circuit. I have a fused power from the battery with a ground and ran two wires from the rear (on the plug side of the window motor) and ran them to the side of the drivers seat. All I have to do is plug in the wires to go down and swap the wires to go up.

bb7110

Fireyota- Your picture answered my question. I was wondering about your arrangement of cup holders while still fitting in all the switches down there. I am working on a piece that goes from the box and bolts TO the black shift housing dealio to fit three cup holders, plus switches. It will be a squeeze, but it will be a very nice improvement over stock.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Sorry guys - realized I never updated this thread now that I mounted the console nice and solid, with no special brackets needed! Below is my write up from the "what did you do to your rig today" thread, with photos.


PS - Wabbitt was right, 8" won't fit, but 6.5" will!

-Phil


I've had this thing since January and just in March installed it loosely with one bolt and a nylon locknut (when I got under it this weekend, the nut just came off - great timing!). The thing was sitting in the console location, but wobbled all over the place and was no more secure than a paper bag. I've been meaning to get to this forever and finally did. I also wanted to mount the cupholders, have enough room for my transfer case shifter to work, and to fold down the rear seats of the 4runner - it FITS!

The console, in its loosely attached form, didn't have the front 2 cupholders instealled yet. I attached them this weekend, and then made a cutout template for the bottom of the console using a carboard box. I used a sharpie and a punch to mark the holes. I then lined up the template on the tunnel, held it in place with the front bolt that I'd already used, and placed the console on top, sliding it back as far as I could to make room for the shifter and still be able to fold seats down. Then, I used the punch to mark how far back from the first hole to go. I simply measured the distance between the front 2 holes (old and new), and then added that distance to the 2 rear holes, punched and drilled. Now, I did take the template and a tape measure under the truck, using the first hole as a guide, and measured to ensure I would not drill anything I shouldn't (like brake lines....). I got DAMN lucky and missed the brakelines by about 1/4" (maybe less!).

All in all, very happy with it - it's in there solid (I added some wider washers to distribute the hold down force some more inside the console -it doesn't wobble at all now)

Couple notes:
1) The provided seatbelt holders won't work - they don't line up. But, this is so snug I don't think your belt receptacles are going anywhere!

2) The edges of the cupholder assembly are sharp on the corners...I may later file them down so they don't devour my seats.



Here are some photos:

Cupholders CLEAR the shifter!


Fits nice and snug:



Dog-approved!


And, yes, the seats fold down:



The Space behind the console:



Open for business! That's not weaka$$ lock mechanism!



View from the back (Yes, it's a little taller than the OEM one but really padded):


Bolts & washers (I used my own for the front, single bolt, since the provided one was too short; I added the larger washers as well to make it hold down better):


Underneath the 2 rear bolts; taken from behind the T case, looking toward front of truck (I had to use a stack of washers as a spacer, since the threads on the long bolts didn't go as need as I needed for a flush fit - this kit is made for JEEPs):


Where the front bolt mounts...JUST the right size I had on hand):


This is where I JUST missed the brakeline when drilling through....WHEW!):


Now I can focus on new things like my V6 caliper upgrade and Chevy springs that I've had for 11 months