wheel bearings...please help
#1
wheel bearings...please help
I have a shimmie in my wheels while driving and when I grab the tires and feel for "play".... I would like to replace the front wheel bearings... Where my confusion starts is "outer, inner" "one or two" per side... I went on line to order a set but realized I dont know what to order...
can someone help me out here? Will I be replacing two items per side on my 95 4runner 4x4? Is there a complete kit available?
trust me, I searched on here but couldnt find specifics to my needs... thanks in advance as always
yota
can someone help me out here? Will I be replacing two items per side on my 95 4runner 4x4? Is there a complete kit available?
trust me, I searched on here but couldnt find specifics to my needs... thanks in advance as always
yota
#3
Contributing Member
I don't know if there is a kit but you need 2 wheel bearings per wheel, inner and outer. If the website isn't clear in whether your ordering a set of both or just one then either phone for some clarification or try somewhere else.
And before replacing the bearings you may want to try repacking and adjusting them.
And before replacing the bearings you may want to try repacking and adjusting them.
#4
Whut he said. ^^^^^
However you will also want to replace the dust seals as well and pack the crap out of the bearings.
I would also check all of the steering linkage, I had a shot bushing on an idler arm that caused the same sounding issue.
However you will also want to replace the dust seals as well and pack the crap out of the bearings.
I would also check all of the steering linkage, I had a shot bushing on an idler arm that caused the same sounding issue.
#5
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Make sure its indeed your wheelbearings. Its not a quick job, don't do it unless it needs it. Jack up a front wheel, grab it at 2 and 8 oclock and try to wiggle it. If it moves, you need to do them, if not...
Also check the idler arm, they are known to cause tons of problems. WAY easier to fix too
I went in a repacked my bearings, but they were so bad they still needed to be replaced. So I had to tear it all back down again to redo them... NOT fun!
Also check the idler arm, they are known to cause tons of problems. WAY easier to fix too
I went in a repacked my bearings, but they were so bad they still needed to be replaced. So I had to tear it all back down again to redo them... NOT fun!
Last edited by Jay351; 07-18-2008 at 01:46 PM.
#6
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If you dont have any play anywhere as stated above, have you tried rotating you tires and getting them rebalanced. Howl ong has it been since you have done either? That can cause a y ride,and some of what your saying you have. I rotate every 5000k religously, and rebalance from time to time
#7
thanks guys... just had new idler arm put on...helped but not all the way... I did grab the tires and move side to side...there is def some play in there.
So I am asking for inner and outer bearings, 2 per side?
thanks again
yota
So I am asking for inner and outer bearings, 2 per side?
thanks again
yota
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#8
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Yep. Plus the dust seals (2...one on either wheel) that encloses the inner bearings....what Kramykram said.
You may also want to have some snap rings handy for the axle stubs. They go on just before (disassembly-wise) the locking nuts for the bearings. They don't always refit snugly when you put them back on. I don't think they're even considered a reusable part, anyway. I've reused them, but I've also had them lose tension.
You may also want to have some snap rings handy for the axle stubs. They go on just before (disassembly-wise) the locking nuts for the bearings. They don't always refit snugly when you put them back on. I don't think they're even considered a reusable part, anyway. I've reused them, but I've also had them lose tension.
#9
I bet you can just tear in to it and tighten that 54mm nut down until you get your desired preload and put it back together and you'd be set. Or even better, tear it down and regrease the bearings and replace the seals and put it back together with the proper preload. Most likely you don't have to replace the bearings. If that's the case then you'll save like 60 bucks.
#10
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Have someone just sit in the truck and turn the steering wheel back and forth, and you can sit in front and look at all the steering linkages and make sure none of them have a lot of play in them.
#11
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ALSO, just my two cents, but if you do replace the bearings, its a good idea to replace the races with them... but those are fun, and you need a brass punch. Its not a necessity, but a good idea.
#12
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If you dont have any play anywhere as stated above, have you tried rotating you tires and getting them rebalanced. Howl ong has it been since you have done either? That can cause a y ride,and some of what your saying you have. I rotate every 5000k religously, and rebalance from time to time
#13
I don't see why you would replace bearings without seeing them first and I don't see the wisdom of replacing bearings and not the races that they run in. Take your VIN to the toy parts department and they will hook you up with the proper part. I've had terrible luck with parts houses and toy parts. I replaced the seals and repacked one side last year and I think all of the seals for both sides were $170? or so. It was kind of steep but they all fit the first time around. They have great diagrams and can print them out for you. Like everyone else, I'd check the steering components first.
#14
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^+1
disassemble and clean the bearings and check them for discoloration (blue, pink and/or orange tints in the metal) from heat, pitting or erosion, etc.... if you're not sure about their condition, take them to a local mechanic and ask if they think the bearing should be replaced.
Also always replace the race(s) whenever you replace the bearings: if the bearings are worn, the races are too. and a new bearing will come with the race anyways so use it.
disassemble and clean the bearings and check them for discoloration (blue, pink and/or orange tints in the metal) from heat, pitting or erosion, etc.... if you're not sure about their condition, take them to a local mechanic and ask if they think the bearing should be replaced.
Also always replace the race(s) whenever you replace the bearings: if the bearings are worn, the races are too. and a new bearing will come with the race anyways so use it.
#16
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Just to add some information here. If you need/want to replace the bearings, here is a kit that I bought. One kit does one wheel, so you'll need 2 if you want to do both sides. Has everything you need, except the grease and the hub socket.
Wheel Bearing Kit
Wheel Bearing Kit
#18
Thanks, I will take a look at the CV's...any warning signs to look for?
hey Cyberman, did you get races with your kit? how did the kit work out for you?
What is a race anyway?
Got a bad shimmy and am leaning towards cv's and bearings.
any advice..
yota
hey Cyberman, did you get races with your kit? how did the kit work out for you?
What is a race anyway?
Got a bad shimmy and am leaning towards cv's and bearings.
any advice..
yota
#19
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The race is a concave piece of metal that the bearing sits in, instead of the bearing running right against the hub (the picture of the kit in the link has the bearings sitting inside the races).
I took out the old seals, bearing and tapped the races out. Then, I borrowed a bearing installer, which you use to tap the new races back in. Greased them all up, and followed the instructions for preloading them.
I followed this link for changing out the bearings (also for the manual hubs).
4x4 Wire: Toyota Front-end Maintenance
#20
nice, thanks man..
I guess those are next of the list.. HOws the result for you? Feel tighter up there? I have an OME steering bar coming, so with new bearings I should be ok for a while..
yota
I guess those are next of the list.. HOws the result for you? Feel tighter up there? I have an OME steering bar coming, so with new bearings I should be ok for a while..
yota