jemsdca

Issues:
When I give the engine gas then let off when the clutch is not engaged I get an odd clicking sound.
Bit of fouling on all the spark plugs as shown below.
When in go up hills accelerating I get a loud clicking sound for the rear end(I think, but its hard to tell)

Questions:
What could be wrong?
What is the most cost effective way to go about diagnosing the issues?

Photos and video link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PR_OFPA-qE



Plug one




Plug two

xxxtreme22r

to me nothing sounds wrong with the video. Get new plugs, maybe wires too.

pruney81

That sounded ok to me as well, it might just be time for a tune up.

jemsdca

I hate to ask but when people say a “tune up” what does that mean?

xxxtreme22r

Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires. Ignition timing reset to specs. When setting the timing don't forget the diagnostic plug jumper. Also a valve lash adjustment may or may not be in order. Those sounds kinda quiet IMO but I know how cams play tricks so.

jemsdca

Well there is a tink-ing sound coming from the rear area above the 2 back cylinders that is very hard to hear.

It looks like a bit of oil is getting into the combustion chamber and burring off, but what that means I do not know.

I may have a compression test done and see what those numbers look like.

I have a shop under 20 min away from me that does injection rebuilds and has a flow bench on site, I may pop off the fuel rail and have them rebuilt or at least checked and have the tune up done.

pruney81

Yeah, I basically meant new plugs, wires cap and rotor. It wouldn't hurt to check the valves but the motor didn't seem to be vibrating and it was quiet so I wouldn't be too concerned with the valves right now.

The fuel injectors make noise on these, it means they are working, also the rear most intake valve can make some noise if someone tried to adjust it and didn't get it tight enough.

If you do adjust the valves I would recommend .007" intake and .011" exhaust with the engine COLD. There is not much of difference with the clearances with the engine being hot or cold in my experience.

xxxtreme22r

Injectors and valves are typically on the louder side on these engines. But all of those are good places to start on a higher mileage engine. Sometimes the back of the cover will make a little noise if it has been torqued down too much as well. Reason being that the rockers will hit the cover if the cover is on too tight. Those top nuts only get something like 14 inch lbs. Which is barely enough to squish those rubber grommets.

jemsdca

I thought it could be something like that so I took the value cover off last night and replaced the seals and PCV value well as it was leaking(i used a torque and took my time with only half turns evenly on all 4 nuts. I think I should replace all these vac lines as well as they look to be original and most of them are cracked.

So far I think my list of stuff to do is
*NGK ˟Spark Plugs
*NGK ignition wire set
*OEM Distributor Cap and Rotor
Rebuilt, balanced and flow tested fuel injector set
Vac-lines
I will take the truck to a local shop for Value leash adjustment
Ignition timing reset

Things with a * I will do ASAP and the others ill have to wait a few weeks.
Anything I should add to the list?

I was told changeling the oil to mobile one synthetic is a good idea on these trucks after 200k think that is a good idea?

86yotaswampmonster

Just change plugs and wires and cap and button and u should be good. Toyota have a different sound clicks and pings u wouldn't find on other trucks

SCToy

You can do the valve lash, I just did it on mine for the first time and it's really pretty easy. The Haynes Manual has some really easy to follow instructions and all you need is a screw driver, a wrench and a set of feeler gauges and some patience.

jemsdca

I have a Chiltons. i will read through this asap and see if i think i can do it.

Would be nice to have this done before i have to drive 500 miles this weekend.

jemsdca

Just one more issue to add to the list.

I just swapped out a leaky PCV valve and put on a new valve cover gasket.

xxxtreme22r

Idle set too high or vacuum leak is causing high idle. When idle is above 1000ish ???? RPM and the brakes are applied it activates the fuel cut. Turn idle down or fix whats causing high idle and problem will most likely go away. If problem was not there before the PCV change, chances are you caused a vacuum leak somewhere.

jemsdca

As the engine is hot now I wont use carb cleaner but Is propane safe to use around a hot engine to look for leeks?

Thanks one more

jemsdca

What may have cuase this is when I chnaged over the PCV and gasket I all so cleaned out the throttle body with spray cleaner that may allow more air in witch raised the idol over 1k I should look for leaks but I bet the cleaning was it, because tones of crap came out of the throttle body.

jemsdca

Well I lowered the idol time not idea what its set to, but I lowered it about 1/3rd a turn and the sounded about right hopped into the car and pressed the brakes and nothing happened so it looks like this is fixed. I will look for a leak latter tonight with some propane but it is about 110 outside right now so I will wait till it cools down.

jemsdca

Update to
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51782608

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZusP8onUaU


This is a follow up to my last video
After the following
throttle body cleaning(spray can)
New PCV+grommet
Plugs + wires
Valve cover gasket+ 4x Grommets + 2 half moon plug things.
Oil changed from 20-50 to 10-40(this was the big change I think)
New Thermostat and Gasket (old was leaking, wire brushed the seat because it was all crusted up not allowing a good seal.)

pruney81

sounds great! 20W50 is way too thick unless you are in Death valley or your engine has a ton of leaks or burns a lot of oil.

jemsdca

I was told by a “truck guy” that 20-50 was the way to go but after looking into it and first hand experiencing it I can tell you that information is wrong.