rhd

I don't have emmissions where i live...and i want to clean my engine up some, since all the damned hoses and valves piss me off everytime i pop my hood....

are there any write ups about which hoses can be removed?

and what about egr??

dlbrunner

Why? The car will run like crap

rhd

wow....you're a ÅÅÅÅing genius.

obvioulsy, i'm asking so that i can get an answer on which ones can be removed and have the truck still run correctly................durka

rhd

wow....you're a ˟˟˟˟ing genius.

obvioulsy, i'm asking so that i can get an answer on which ones can be removed and have the truck still run correctly................durka

MudHippy

All right everybody chill or

You should try the EGR valve first, my opinion. Disconnect and plug the hose at the top. Go one at a time, then your more likely to know what you can/can't get away with. A few well written threads, including some discussing the removal of the entire EGR system, actually.

rhd

i searched for said thread...and didn't really come up with much........link?

Bill

go to pirate4x4 and look through the toyota FAQ there is a thread in there about EGR removal. you need a few block off plates, but it gets rid of a whole lot of vacuum lines and extra stuff.

MudHippy

If you can sift through these 2 there's some usefull tidbits, I'll see what else I can round up.
Note ChickenLovers use of "muffler-mender goop" in the first, 2nd page. In the second I discourage the use of any but the metal plate block-off method, vs. a stopper,which wasn't one of my best ideas. I've since changed my setup to such.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/egr-106749/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/egr-removal-106914/
But yeah, a couple block-off plates, plug the vacuum ports, your done.

Tacoclimber

And you have a lousy attitude. I think you should go ask this question on Pirate or something. All of a dozen posts and you're insulting other members. Way to go.

Stevo3

Well said Tacoclimber

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy enough to lose the fuel pressure regulator VSV:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/8.html

Works fine with just a simple intake-FPR vacuum hose and no change in emissions or driveability.

dlbrunner

https://www.yotatech.com/ytrules.php

Your question is strange, you want to remove the vacuum lines simply because they upset you to look at them?

In general emmissions standards get more stringent every year. Even though you may not have smog rules where you live now, What happens if you move? What will you do if the area you live in adopts emissions rules?

The engine was designed to run with those lines in place. Do you expect a large HP increase with the lines disconnected?

I don't see any benefit to removing any vacuum lines, and if you screw it up your engine will run like crap.

Good Luck!

Robrt32

I share his dislike for them but not to the point where i'm gonna take them off.... But IMO the worst thing they done to a motor was wrap it in rubber lines!!

rhd

i don't see how it's strange in anyway. there is a plethora of rubber lines there that are just asking to get mixed up, dry rot and crack, and generally just get in the way when i've got soemthing to do internally to the engine. And 90% of the time the majority of vac lines are useless.....systems like EVAP, fast idle crap, and systems like EGR. I could care less of emmissions...where i live, it will not be a problem, ever. I've never had a vechicle that has kept a cat, egr, or any other emmissions bullÅÅÅÅ that the tree huggers in cali decided were a necessity to save the trees. Not so much bitter about it...as they just annoy me when i have to work on a vehicle and track down a problem for a customer...whne it almost always is a worthless problem related to emmissions equipment.


and as for my attitude, if someone wants to be a dick.....i will also be a dick. respect is a mutual thing, and only earned.

for the people that have helped, i appreciate it.

OSU4Runner

He wasn't being a dick, just stating the obvious, those systems are there for a reason. People are here to help, I know I've learned alot on here. Lose your attitude or take it somewhere else.

rhd

he pretty much was being a dick with that blanket statement...besides being 100% ignorant. 90% of the systems added on to cars relating to emmissions can be removed with NO ill effect on driveability...and will usually restore some lost power or gas mileage. I'm just wondering which ones are removable...as in EGR, evap, cold start, and the like. there's no reason for you to be posting...as you have obviously have no benifit to me or anyone asking the saw question.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, starting when the engine is cold is pretty handy, would hate to have to hop out with a can of starting fluid every time I wanted to crank it up on a cold morning.

Evap is a good thing, too. Instead of having your gasoline fumes evaportate and waft away into the air, trap them in a charcoal cannister and then suck them back into the engine for fuel. At $3+/gal. probably a money saving thing there.

EGR is not terribly bad, it only operates at part throttle and helps keep the combustion temps and pinging down and helps w/ fuel economy a bit.

I did mention you can pull off the fuel pressure regulator plumbing, just run the one hose. Same with the power steering VSV, block off those lines and get rid of them as well. Don't really do anything major, not emissions or preformance related.

gametom

If you pull the fuel pressure regulator vac line will rise about 10psi which can cause extra fuel usage.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Read my writeup on that, you don't remove the line, you remove the VSV and it's lione and instead run a single line from intake to FPR. Fuel pressure rises and falls with engine load (vacuum) and it works just fine.

Before:


After:


The VSV is gone, the wire to the VSV is gone, the vacuum hose to the VSV is gone, now there is just a single hose from the intake manifold to the FPR (the one that goes up and over the intake plenum and down to the FPR).

And yes, this would be a vacuum line, that if removed entirely, would cause poor operation, worse fuel economy and who knows what other problems. Try it and see, engine will hardly idle at all and until you hit about 2000-2500 RPM, it bogs down so bad that it is hard to drive. But that said, you can simplify things, reduce them to the bare minimum (that is one single vacuum line) and still have a perfectly functioning engine. The VSV and all that other stuff is only there on 4WD 22REs, not present on 2WD and passenger car engines. Supposed to fix some sort of hot start problem, but in 5+ years of running direct, have never seen the hot start problem appear and have driven/wheeled in 100+ temps w/o issue.

Bill

I've got a question about that.

I have a line from my Throttle Body running to my charcoal cannister, and considering it's before the point that fuel enters the equation, what's really the point? Plus (I'd have to double check to be sure), I think my charcoal cannister has a line that actually dumps to inside the frame(there is a line going into the frame through a little grommet, line doesn't actually attach to anything.

I ask because I'm planning to swap to a larger 60mm TB from a 7M, and while there is a line that could work for the charcoal cannister, the fitting on the 7M TB is approx 2mm in diam, where as the stock 22RTE fitting is about 6mm in diam.