jordanhere123

I have a 1994 toyota pickup 22re 4wd. I am going to need to replace my original radiator soon. I am wondering what the best all aluminium option is? and how many rows 1, 2 or 3?

scope103

I was persuaded by the two sites below that the "row" count is just misleading. As I understand it, back-in-the-day radiators were all made with the same sized copper tubing, so to get more flow (and more cooling) you had to put in more rows of that size tubing.

With aluminum radiators, they can make the "tubes" the optimal shape and size, and get as much flow as needed with a single row.
http://www.speedcooling.com/coretypes/info_6.html
http://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/14...etter-than-two

Other than that, I just put in an OSC 50 (from RockAuto), which is sold as 3-row "equivalent." I understand that to mean it will flow as much as an old-fashioned 3-row radiator. Or, it's just marketing hype. I haven't had mine for long, and I don't drive in Death Valley in the summer time, so I can't really give it a rating.

nordicwargod

Many on this forum would swear that only a all-copper radiator would be worth installing. CSF gets mentioned a lot [I think that's the brand?] At $275+ versus a Spectra at $80-$100 which is what Napa carries? Both have lasted me about five years each on different vehicles.
I just installed a new Spectra single core which turns out is just as deep as the OEM two core. I think Scope is on to something. Single cores being as deep as two cores and hold just as much fluid may actually be more efficient and cost effective. But I don't live in Death Valley either!

jordanhere123

I saw these ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits1984-199...dVMARS&vxp=mtr

Says it only fits rwd?

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/prod...020X7236aa.htm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...BVzRMu&vxp=mtr

jordanhere123

And my current radiator now doesn't have those fittings at the bottom to hook any lines up to

scope103

I think the usual argument goes something like "Plastic cheap. Metal strong!" But when was the last time you saw a football helmet made of brass? Or a 747 made of copper? Theoretically, copper conducts heat a little faster than aluminum, but plastic and aluminum are MUCH stronger than brass and copper. Of course, you could get a poorly made radiator in brass, aluminum, or god knows what, but I'm not going to rule out a radiator because it has plastic tanks.

Those fittings are to cool ATF. If you have a manual you could just leave them with the plastic caps. If you have an automatic, you ought to find out what happened to the cooling lines.

jordanhere123

Yeah I have a manual. Just wasn't sure what they were for since I never seen them before.

DemonRunner

The original one has lasted this long why not take it to a radiator shop and have it checked out, flowed, boiled out and recored if needed . Then it will last another 20 plus years for prob less than a new one.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The real reason only reason I like and pretty much only use the copper brass radiators.

Is the fact it is pretty simple to repair almost any damage in the field with a propane torch the correct flux and solder.

Having done so on more then a few times over the years

Now granted these times happened pretty much all before cell phones old habits are hard to break.

I can see if your lacking the skills to solder .

Then it really does not matter.

To me the added cost is well worth the piece of mind

jordanhere123

Well my original one has a lot of pushed in fins and is missing some fins on the very bottom.

nordicwargod

Yeah, up to a point. I also have had the core rodded and sweated back together and even re-cored. My Uncle was an aircraft welder and sweated leaks up when they happened. Can't do that with aluminum. But living in San Diego and working in the beach area just eats them up from the outside too.
I bought an aluminum and plastic Spectra for $90. When it leaks I'll recycle it and get another. Its been sixty thousand miles and four years and I can't complain.