StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link man, I had the FSM on my old laptop but that took a dump. I'm not too familiar with how engines work but I've been away at college, with my truck at home. It's got a tick and the mechanic diagnosed a bent rod, which was obviously false.. Thanks again!

scope103

Ah, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing ...

Usually, when someone says you've got a bent "rod," they're talking about a piston connecting rod (which connects the piston to the crank). http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/69cylin.pdf

A bent rod (which can be caused by hydrolocking, knocking, a few other things) can actually touch the side of the crankcase, producing a "tick" sound.

bone collector

I have about every bolt on accessory that can go on a 3vze. I have headers, flamethrower injectors and 7 mge AFM swap. I also have 8 mm wires and egr delete. The only mods left would require a machine shop and serious $$$$. Here is a video of my truck at idle.

NickRob96

Subbed. Thanks for the info

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Just a dumb question.. I was checking the fluids on my transfer case and manual transmission and the oil in the T-case was green and the tranny fluid was brown... It did not smell burnt, and the gear oil I have has a green shade so what could that mean? Does synthetic oil have a different color to it?

rjfortuna

Thank you.

waycoolmg

Great Post. I just joined, and was looking for Performance posts for the 3.0(Slow) and found this. I bought my 1992 Pickup off Ebay out of Texas and love it. 236k miles, 4" Lift and Fire Engine Red Paint.

Still needing advice on how to get more out of this engine without huge $$ invested. It doesn't look like I have much hope though.

G

4wayout

A lot of great info! Would like to share some info I recently got. In my area there's a mechanic who worked for Toyota in the day they came out with the 3.0 slow, as it's called. He was around when the recall came out for the head gasket problem. He now has his own shop and will only work on toyo's. I called him to ask about a valve adjustment on my 90' 3VZE pick-up which I purchased new in 1990.(now 181,000 miles). He said you don't adjust the valves on this motor until you have torn the engine down for some other issue and you are putting it back together. I don't really know what to believe at this point because this guy has a great reputation in this area for great work and being honest. On another note. I have never gotten a recall notice for the valve cover gaskets, which he couldn't understand. I remember calling the dealership ship twice after hearing about the recall. They asked for my VIN # and I was told "not my vehicle". Again, don't know what to believe especially after 181,000 miles.

scope103

1. I just adjusted my valves yesterday. Because you have to replace shims, it is a bigger job than, say, a 22re. But if you DON'T adjust the valves, you could get an exhaust valve that is too "tight," which will destroy the valve (the valve cools by sitting on the valve seat). In which case you WILL have to tear the engine down to replace the valves and re-grind the valve seats. Lazy now, big fee to the mechanic later.

2. There never was a valve cover gasket recall. There was a relay-rod recall (9/7/2005), which might apply to your vehicle. If it does, you should check to be sure that it was done. http://www.toyota.com/recall?srchid=...ecall_Toyota||

3. There never was a HEAD gasket recall, either. There was a "special service campaign" where Toyota did replace a lot of head gaskets in the 90's (mine included), but that's very different from a recall. Specifically, Toyota is free to just stop doing them. I've gotten conflicting information over the years whether a specific dealer will or will not grant the campaign, but if the dealer says "no" you're pretty much stuck with that.

airdreams1

For those with the starter issues.... It may not be just the starter....

~I replaced the plunger & contacts... still the starter would only work some of the time & others it would just click...
~So I replaced the relay under the hood... still the starter would only work some of the time & others it would just click...
~So I replaced the relay behind the dash... still the starter would only work some of the time & others it would just click...

after hours & hours of searching I found a thread about a fatal flaw in the wire harness.... Toyota (for a couple years) messed up & hooked the starter into the 12 amp fuse under the dash instead of the 40 amp under the hood..... (Im tired so I might be mistaken on where it is hooked up.) .

Anyway, I cut the wire & soldered in a new one & hooked it to the 40 amp fuze & have not had another problem since!!!!!

It fixed my issue & could fix yours too if you have one of the years affected. here is the link : https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51975700

thanks RAD4Runner....

Now just have to get this thing to get better than 11 mpg!

Aft3r8ll!

I am having a few of the issues mentioned in this very informative post here. Currently, well I should say, previously, I had zero issues with my 93 4x4 3.0 Yota Pickup DLX until I replaced the Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap, and rotor... Then the proverbial ˟˟˟˟ hit the proverbial freaking fan. I am having issues during starting, where it will stay on, then immediately die... IF I can get the fuel to catch, by depressing the gas pedal, it will rev up, then sit between 500 and 1000 on my rpm gauge. If not, it will sit at about 100 (x1000) and die. Thought possibly a vacuum issue where secondary air was killing the vehicle. All the hoses looked good, no holes or cracks... Changed the fuel filter, thinking it was a fuel issue. Well, while all of this was going on, started getting hesitation in forward progressing power, not stalling, but like i was taking my foot off the gas pedal while the sucker was all the way to the floor. Wouldnt let me get to 45mph... Really bad stuff. Someone told me to change the timing (completed) and it really didn't help, now im reading up on possibly the TPS sensor... ect.. So i'll go home, and pull the codes by jumping the timing E1&TE1 and see what the codes say. Im telling you... Nothing like trying some preventative maintanence which causes everything to break... Anybody have any advice?

sphealy

iTrader: (1)

Did you use toyota parts when you performed your maintenance? I know it's silly but it can make a difference sometimes. Also the fact that the problems started directly after your work would cause me to look no further than what you worked on. Recheck the plug wire order, and visually compare the parts you took off to the ones you put on to see if there are any differences they may be small but important.

nuknuk

the knock sensor has been a pain in my ass, I changed it and put everything back together and now cant even get the truck to start.

Benji19912wdsr5

A malfunctioning knock sensor will not prevent your truck from starting. The engine will run on a backup system until the problem is corrected.

After installing a knock sensor purchased on the internet, my truck continued to run with less power and rough. I purchased one from Toyota along with a new connecting wire, and the truck runs perfectly.

You should recheck your wiring connections and timing.

Currently have 340,000+ miles on the original engine.

89 urban renagade

good info to have

konaboi808

Old but still great info. Tanks

Green

Thanks for the thread. I will be using info found here in my rebuild. I would never have thought to check / replace the starter contacts but it makes sense to do while the thing is out.

Adam Vass

da4runner

Hi, I need a parts manual for a toyota 4 runner model 1992,I need it specifically for the engine

Rachel Crowford

You have 2 holes on the engine block that suck air, which originally was plugged into the air intake hoses. I see that you left them open. What do they do and doesn't that make a vacum leak or something? or they were plugged in to the air intake just so they get filtered air?