Endeavor

sorry but i've looked... and i know i'll get flamed. i found info for a standard
runner. they say its a little easier then an auto, but i couldn't find anything on a auto.
i need info and pics on how to pull the starter for a 95 3.slo.
thanks guys

breknraj

Remove the front passenger tire.
Unclip the rubber sheet in the fender. (be careful, lest you break the clips)
Unbolt the access panel on the inner fender.
You should now be able to get to the wiring to disconnect it. (make sure you have already removed the negative terminal on your battery, lest sparks fly!)
Unbolt the starter (two bolts - one running in each direction)
Remove the starter.

Installation is the reverse of the above.

What is the problem with your starter? If it is just the brushes, that is a very easy (and cheap) repair that you can do yourself.

rdlsz24

This doesn't tell you how to get at the starter itself but it's a start:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ter.pdf#page=3

Rob

TNRabbit

Use the FSM located here: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

This is a giant PITA. You will need about 2 1/2 feet of socket extentions (I used about 5 short ones) to get the front bolt and about 80% of that to get the back bolt from underneath with a swivel extension. Enlist some help from someone with SMALL HANDS! Also, you will need to remove the access panel behind the right wheel well to actually pull it out. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL FIRST!!!

TNRabbit

wow, looks like we all posted the same time!

tc

Mine is a manual, sounds like it truly is a little easier than an auto. Needed every extension I have to get the one from the front, the back one was easier. Getting the wiring undone was easy. The real trick is getting it out. Two options - undo the steering stabilizer and go out the front or twist it down and around to come out the side access panel.

spencer

A helpful site: https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm

It may not seem like it, but once disconnected and unbolted, it really does fit out through the access panel. Get yourself warmed up with a game of Tetris.

Endeavor

don't know exactly... it sounds like it's engaging but not cranking. its really inconsistent.
i read it was pretty easy to replace the bushings, but i just don't have the time right now. if that was the case.

Endeavor

Appreciate all the help fellow YotaER's

trythis

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/
This works great. Very cheap, and way better than a buying a rebuilt.

PDR

I did mine (3VZ-E Auto) 2 weeks ago. real PITA.

It took an hour to unbolt / remove cables and then a further 1.5 hours to get it out of the engine bay!

Mine is a Right Hand drive (I live in the UK) so I also had the steering column making access difficult.

Two things I found that might be helpful:

1. The grey plastic cover where the power cable fixes to the starter body has a hinged flap and the securing nut is inside. It took me a while to find this out.

2. The metal heat shield on the exhaust manifold was preventing the removal of my starter. Once I took this off the starter came out through the side ok.

3. The starter comes out back end first. So it is a case of, remove bolts, turn starter through 90 degrees (back end up), then 90 degrees towards you coming out backwards through the side access panel.

I found that re-fitting my newly refurbished* starter only took 45 min.

* there is a guy in my town who has been fixing starters & alternators for my family for about 30 years. always good service, items come with 12 months warrantee and look like new. Cost me 85 UK Pounds. He replaced every possible part that could fail!!! because he knows how awkward these starters are to get at on these Toyotas!!!

Starts great now!

4x4_Ferg

I did this on my '90 auto not too long ago, and I have to agree with the other posts...major PITA. All I had to remove to make it possible to pull the starter out was the two metal transmission fluid lines going to the radiator. Removing the lines made it physically possible to remove, but anything but easy. We didn't have the best tools, but luckily my friend has small hands/ arms, or I woulda been unable to get to it. The whole job took about 3 hours, most of that time was just spent trying to squeeze the old one out and trying to correctly position the new one in the right place and get it bolted back up.

Schralper

Even swapping in the new engine it's a PITA!
I just jacked up the engine, then removed the engine mount on that side.
Still........
I don't wanna have to do it again

Tigerstripe40

Drop it off at the Stealership.

WillRadford

When I had the heads off my 94 3.0 auto I needed to get the starter off and even with all that extra room it was a total pain in the butt. I couldn't believe how hard it was. I was really jealous of my buddy who replaced his starter on his 91 Chevy truck in about 45 minutes in the parking lot of work. LOTS of room to work on that engine.

tc

I replaced the starter on my 22R 2WD in about 30 mins. I couldn't belive how much harder the 3.0 4WD was!

breknraj

The only reason it took me as long as I did, was that I didn't know about the access panel on the inner fender - and the FSM didn't say a thing about it, either. I went at the project from underneath, like most all starters. I got it disconnected and unbolted fairly easily, but when I tried to get it out is when I started losing my mind!

I double checked the FSM, which was pretty much disconnect, unbolt, remove, and went back to trying to find the magic postion to lower it from the suspension pieces that had it caught. I screwed around with that for about an hour, and even copious amounts of swearing at it wasn't getting me anywhere! lol!

I took a break, contemplating starting to remove something in the suspension to get the starter out. I was sitting on the ground by the front passenger wheel, drinking some iced tea. While I was kind of blindly staring at the truck, the bolts of the access panel caught my eye. At that point I figured that I had nothing to lose, so I grabbed the floor jack and jack stand, and pulled the wheel off. I removed the rubber sheet, and unbolted the panel. There sat the starter, and after a little twisting and turning, it came right out.

The new one went in fairly easily, since I knew what position to insert it in, now. I was done in less than half an hour, at that point.

While I was stuck, I kept thinking that, if I needed to remove suspension pieces, surely the FSM would have said something about it. Not saying anything about the access panel is the only time that the FSM has ever let me down!

Robrt32

Kida like when the directions say "slide bearing off shaft", that always make me laugh, most of the time we take a torch and cut them off, they don't slide easily

Overkiller

Well a while back I pulled the starter off my '90 3.0. The sheetmetal in front of the firewall has all been hacked off and replaced with tube and it was still a huge ordeal. Anyway I pulled it off and replaced it with my spare only to find the reason that I pulled it off (intermitent clicking but no starting) persisted. After 5 minutes of troubleshooting, which is best performed before removing parts FYI, I found the fat black/white wire to trigger the starter wasn't getting a full 12 volts. A couple minutes later a relay was added to a space in the fuse box and the truck starts like a champ. It's still 3 different colors, leaks oil, and idles like crap. But it starts now.

Anyway it sounds like you may have a simular problem. It might save you a couple greasy hours to check it out. Good luck

Travis

Endeavor

well here goes nothin'...the starter's so bad it won't even crank anymore. goin to attempt to change the starter in -23 with the windchill! damn Winterpeg(aka Winnipeg)! well I'll keep you guys posted to tell my side of the story.
thanks again for all the helpful tips!