What do you have armored on your truck?
#1
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What do you have armored on your truck?
I've been researching trail armor and here is what I have so far:
1.) Buy rock sliders first as they seem to be the most important. This makes sense to me because most of the time you don't want to straddle the obstacle you want to put your tire on it and when you finally get over it your rockers are vulnerable. Not being able to open or close your door after you bashed up the bottom of it is a huge disadvantage. Plus they can make a nice step to get in.
2.) Rear Bumper next because you want one that you aren't going to hang and you also want one that protects the side of your vehicle in the rear. It's also nice to have a strong point on the bumper so that you can be snatched back out of that mud bog you thought you could clear. I'm picking back bumper first because that end of the vehicle gets less driver attention than the front end.
3.)Front Bumper to allow you to bash into things (Deer, elk, small cars that annoy you) and to mount a winch. Plus where else are you going to mount 150,000 watts of fog lights so that you can melt obstacles (or small annoying cars) out of your way.
This is where things get fuzzy..... It appears that the only other types of armor that people are selling is skid plates (The plate that runs from your front bumper to under your front diff. Is that what they are calling a skid plate?), Cross members to protect your transfer case and armor for your rear diff. Does no one bother to armor the gas tank? What about the exhaust? What about the catalytic converter?
So my question to those who have experience is: Exactly what to you have armored under your truck?
1.) Buy rock sliders first as they seem to be the most important. This makes sense to me because most of the time you don't want to straddle the obstacle you want to put your tire on it and when you finally get over it your rockers are vulnerable. Not being able to open or close your door after you bashed up the bottom of it is a huge disadvantage. Plus they can make a nice step to get in.
2.) Rear Bumper next because you want one that you aren't going to hang and you also want one that protects the side of your vehicle in the rear. It's also nice to have a strong point on the bumper so that you can be snatched back out of that mud bog you thought you could clear. I'm picking back bumper first because that end of the vehicle gets less driver attention than the front end.
3.)Front Bumper to allow you to bash into things (Deer, elk, small cars that annoy you) and to mount a winch. Plus where else are you going to mount 150,000 watts of fog lights so that you can melt obstacles (or small annoying cars) out of your way.
This is where things get fuzzy..... It appears that the only other types of armor that people are selling is skid plates (The plate that runs from your front bumper to under your front diff. Is that what they are calling a skid plate?), Cross members to protect your transfer case and armor for your rear diff. Does no one bother to armor the gas tank? What about the exhaust? What about the catalytic converter?
So my question to those who have experience is: Exactly what to you have armored under your truck?
#2
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For my Taco, Budbult sells full skid sets that go from the very front to all the way behind the transfer case.
I dont really know of any companies making gas tank skids.
Converter skids are for FZJ80's, On my truck they dont hang very low and are close to the frame, So im not worried about it.
Other then that your list is basically my plan, I have sliders and they have saved my ass tons of times, they have payed for themselves. After I finish my bed bob I will make a rear bumper with some side protection. Then front is on the last of my list..
I dont really know of any companies making gas tank skids.
Converter skids are for FZJ80's, On my truck they dont hang very low and are close to the frame, So im not worried about it.
Other then that your list is basically my plan, I have sliders and they have saved my ass tons of times, they have payed for themselves. After I finish my bed bob I will make a rear bumper with some side protection. Then front is on the last of my list..
#3
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So far I've done the front, rear and transfer case. The t-case plate gets the crap beat out of it and the rear bumper is starting to show some wear. Next for me will be sliders probably.
#4
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So far I only have a front. When I bought my runner it had an ARB with a winch, so I'm not complaining. I've been getting quotes on sliders, but I really need a rear bumper. The stock one is beat to hell and is so bent, its even more prone to catching onto things.
I after those I will probably to a BB crossmember, and either drop on one of his skids, or make one myself.
I after those I will probably to a BB crossmember, and either drop on one of his skids, or make one myself.
#5
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I have Marlin bumpers front and rear and sliders, also have a Soneran steel IFS truss.
The next thing I would really like to do, is replace those dinky factory front and t-case skid plates. I can bend them by hand.. Not cool!
The next thing I would really like to do, is replace those dinky factory front and t-case skid plates. I can bend them by hand.. Not cool!
#6
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A couple others not mentioned....
- If you have an e-locker, an e-locker motor guard is a must (Marlin has the best deal IMO)
- Differential armor
Mentioned, but here's a visual, crossmember
- If you have an e-locker, an e-locker motor guard is a must (Marlin has the best deal IMO)
- Differential armor
Mentioned, but here's a visual, crossmember
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#8
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What do I have armored? EVERYTHING.
I would do skids before bumpers. As much as not being able to open the doors sucks, being stuck on the trail with a split open tcase sucks worse.
You need another crossmember at the rear of the a-arms. It will keep your frame from bending and also provide a rear mount for the skid.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/Early_IFS_Brace.html
I would do skids before bumpers. As much as not being able to open the doors sucks, being stuck on the trail with a split open tcase sucks worse.
You need another crossmember at the rear of the a-arms. It will keep your frame from bending and also provide a rear mount for the skid.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/Early_IFS_Brace.html
Last edited by tc; 07-24-2009 at 06:42 PM.
#9
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Thanks tc and 89silverpu! I really appreciate the photos. Your comment about stuck on the trail is noted. My truck is still my daily driver so I'm pretty careful about what obstacles I attempt. (I'm sure with more skill I'll get more adventurous)
I've revised my list to be
1. Sliders (For my level/skill at off road driving these seem the most important)
2. T-case / Diffs / Gas tank - A major hole in any of these and you are stranded.
3. Front skid plate (If that is what it is called? Front bumper to under the A Arms)
4. Rear and Front Bumper.
Someday if I really start crawling over rocks I could see beefing up drive shafts and such but for now if I just did the above that should get me the 90% solution.
I've revised my list to be
1. Sliders (For my level/skill at off road driving these seem the most important)
2. T-case / Diffs / Gas tank - A major hole in any of these and you are stranded.
3. Front skid plate (If that is what it is called? Front bumper to under the A Arms)
4. Rear and Front Bumper.
Someday if I really start crawling over rocks I could see beefing up drive shafts and such but for now if I just did the above that should get me the 90% solution.
Last edited by NMMarauder; 07-24-2009 at 07:10 PM.
#10
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Yeah it's a Trail Gear dual case crossmember modified to work with a single case for now. I have a Marlin dual adapter and an 83 top shift t case sittin in my garage right now waitin for me to put the duals together, I just need time
#11
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Very nice, I'm interested in that. I was thinking about dualing up down the road, but I don't want to have to buy another crossmember if I go and armor for a single now.
#12
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#13
got to ask, the is the front diff really in need of protection, its cast iron and, i would think, extremely resistant to damage from rock sitting behind the front x-member. The aluminum front diff cover is totally protected as is. The rear diff has taking an absolute beating on my truck to the point where getting the nuts on the diff studs undone is not going to be fun at all. The rear diff cover on the other hand is vulnerable as can be. I also am a little worried about the bottom of my axle housing as it starting to take on a more organic shape ..
Last edited by Matt16; 08-27-2009 at 10:28 PM.
#14
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I've got it all armored.
Front bumper, rear bumper, sliders belly pan, Under the front diff. rear diff.
I've got my belly flat, so my skid is a little under an inch from the frame rails, while my tcase is above the rails:
it is 3/16" plate reinforced with tented angle iron.
Front diff is reinforced 3/16". Front bumper is 1/4" tube, with 1/4" and 3/16" braces, sliders are 1/4" tube for the main beam, and .120 wall DOM for the outboard:
Rear diff is shaved, and plated over with 3/8" plate:
As for my gas tank, I moved it out of the way:
The only vulnerable thing on my truck is my rear driveshaft, which I had retubed to .120 wall.
Front bumper, rear bumper, sliders belly pan, Under the front diff. rear diff.
I've got my belly flat, so my skid is a little under an inch from the frame rails, while my tcase is above the rails:
it is 3/16" plate reinforced with tented angle iron.
Front diff is reinforced 3/16". Front bumper is 1/4" tube, with 1/4" and 3/16" braces, sliders are 1/4" tube for the main beam, and .120 wall DOM for the outboard:
Rear diff is shaved, and plated over with 3/8" plate:
As for my gas tank, I moved it out of the way:
The only vulnerable thing on my truck is my rear driveshaft, which I had retubed to .120 wall.
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