Well, where do I go now? crushed pilot bearing
#1
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Well, where do I go now? crushed pilot bearing
Tried grease, tried wet paper. Pilot bearing was not gonna move. Ended up falling apart. Now I just have a sleeve stuck in crankshaft and a broken screwdriver. Any ideas on how to get it out?
#2
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I had the same issue with the 22RE I was put in my 4runner. I was able to use a small dremel cutoff wheel to slice through the outer race of the bearing and break it out.
I nicked the opening in the crank a bunch, but since the new application was an automatic, I didn't need to put a new bearing in it. I bet if you were careful, you could do it without damaging anything crucial.
Also. when I took it apart, I couldn't believe that design. Maybe I've been spoiled with all these Subarus where the bearing is in the flywheel so you can easily get behind it to pound it out.
I nicked the opening in the crank a bunch, but since the new application was an automatic, I didn't need to put a new bearing in it. I bet if you were careful, you could do it without damaging anything crucial.
Also. when I took it apart, I couldn't believe that design. Maybe I've been spoiled with all these Subarus where the bearing is in the flywheel so you can easily get behind it to pound it out.
#5
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I would be willing to bet it won`t come out with a slide hammer. But I don`t mind losing the bet.
I would say get the truck to a height where you can see and are comfortable dermal tool with a carbide burr . Take your time once one side has been scored enough to release the pressure you should be able to work it out.
This is one of those things it might go real easy or the otherway.
Good luck
I would say get the truck to a height where you can see and are comfortable dermal tool with a carbide burr . Take your time once one side has been scored enough to release the pressure you should be able to work it out.
This is one of those things it might go real easy or the otherway.
Good luck
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I've seen this several times before in other engines where the outer race is either rusted to the crank or it had spun and galled the surfaces together.
Since you got all the inner parts out of the way... Here's what I have done before what I suggest; I would first try a good quality bearing puller and see if you can get a grip on it. Make sure to tighten it real good so the "fingers" (or whatever you call them) don't slip out when applying pulling pressure. If it still slips, try using the Dremmel with a small cutting disc to cut little notches along the race to grab onto if it slips or cannot grab onto the backside. If that don't work, as WYONING9 said; I'd then suggest use a small (1/2-3/4 in. long) conical cutting tip on a drill or Dremmel to gradually cut a channel across the race. Use the very tip to control how deep you go. Once a channel is cut almost all the way through the race, you can try carefully using a chisle to cut the rest of the channel across. Keep the chisle parallel to the crank and be careful not to gouge the crank bore. Once cut, it should pry out fairly easily.
Once you got it out, inspect the crank bore. If galled, you may be able to clean it up with emery cloth, small sanding (flap-style) wheel, or softer wire wheel, ...or you may need to have it machined out a slight bit and use a larger diameter bearing or bushing. I had to do this many many years ago on a '67 Mustang/289 and have a special oversize bushing machined up for me... with spares for later.
When you go to install the new bearing (or bushing if that's the extreme case), apply a very little bit of anti-seize or grease to the outer surface of the bearing to prevent rusting. It will basically squish out as the bearing goes in the bore (tolerance fit), but it will be enough to aid in future replacement. Be sure to get it in straight or you may have the same problem again. Apply another very tiny bit of grease coating to the small tip of the trans input shaft that rides in the inner bearing, again.. to aid in future removal.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Since you got all the inner parts out of the way... Here's what I have done before what I suggest; I would first try a good quality bearing puller and see if you can get a grip on it. Make sure to tighten it real good so the "fingers" (or whatever you call them) don't slip out when applying pulling pressure. If it still slips, try using the Dremmel with a small cutting disc to cut little notches along the race to grab onto if it slips or cannot grab onto the backside. If that don't work, as WYONING9 said; I'd then suggest use a small (1/2-3/4 in. long) conical cutting tip on a drill or Dremmel to gradually cut a channel across the race. Use the very tip to control how deep you go. Once a channel is cut almost all the way through the race, you can try carefully using a chisle to cut the rest of the channel across. Keep the chisle parallel to the crank and be careful not to gouge the crank bore. Once cut, it should pry out fairly easily.
Once you got it out, inspect the crank bore. If galled, you may be able to clean it up with emery cloth, small sanding (flap-style) wheel, or softer wire wheel, ...or you may need to have it machined out a slight bit and use a larger diameter bearing or bushing. I had to do this many many years ago on a '67 Mustang/289 and have a special oversize bushing machined up for me... with spares for later.
When you go to install the new bearing (or bushing if that's the extreme case), apply a very little bit of anti-seize or grease to the outer surface of the bearing to prevent rusting. It will basically squish out as the bearing goes in the bore (tolerance fit), but it will be enough to aid in future replacement. Be sure to get it in straight or you may have the same problem again. Apply another very tiny bit of grease coating to the small tip of the trans input shaft that rides in the inner bearing, again.. to aid in future removal.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
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I had a similar problem, the inner race, cages, and ball bearings all fell out when I did my clutch. I scratched my head, tried several things, brought in the most experienced person I know, good ole dad. what finally ended up working was a Blind hole bearing puller. I bought that one after going to Autozone to rent it, they wanted about three times that price to rent theirs, basically purchase, and refund when returned.
how I used it was to slide in the largest puller that would fit, tighten it up, give the slide hammer a few good whacks, loosen and reinsert, and repeat until I was sure I had a good grip on the back of the race, and continued until I had the race in my hand.
how I used it was to slide in the largest puller that would fit, tighten it up, give the slide hammer a few good whacks, loosen and reinsert, and repeat until I was sure I had a good grip on the back of the race, and continued until I had the race in my hand.
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