infiltrator

The story:
Okay, so today, my father and I were working on my spark plugs. We got some NGK Irridium's!!! (Does anyone know how long those last?).
On the 4th plug, we had to take out the Intake Silencer, and we ripped a hose. After that we tried starting the truck up and it wouldnt run (died, even though its a small rip in the hose maybe an inch)
So now, I am stranded for xmas probably, and I guess this makes it all the more interesting to do the ISR mod for my 4runner.

I need help on this one guys. I have read the write-up on this and have some questions.

-I can't really take it somewhere because it wont run, so I guess I have to do this with math, and eyeballs.
-I understand that its a 3'' pipe that is bent at a certain angle. What angle is this, and how long is the pipe (can anyone give me specifications).
-I read that you make a "mock setup" using ducting, does ducking stay where you move it (I dont think it does..). I dont understand the logic behind that....
-Under the airbox there is another route that the hose splits to. If I directly route a pipe to from the engine to the airbox, what happens to that?

Also, can anyone get me a good place to buy spark plug wires (mine are pretty much shot... (cheap is good, but not too cheap haha).
Thanks guys, I know I am asking a lot from you.

91runner11b

I got a downey intake tube only for around $39.00. Downey didn't have the silicone adapters to go with it in stock at the time so I got them from Pep-Boys for a few bucks a piece. The stock intake and valve cover hoses work just fine after you switch them around and use some hose clamps. The tube is smaller than the local muff shop 3" piping I believe it is two and a half, but it sounds great and seems to give alittle better throttle response and gas mileage.

infiltrator

Did you order it online? What did you do about the part that connects under the airbox?

Red3.slow

I'll try to find some pictures of when i did it, the only thing i would do differently is find the right 90 degree connections, and not get crush bent tubing. Oh and the ducting is just to mock up the bends you will need for the tube, I used card board instead

- or a simpler fix would be just getting a new hose.

Red3.slow

The only thing wrong here was, no 90 degree fittings and i couldn't get a good seal with just the washers and o rings so i used some JB Weld to seal it up and painted it.

infiltrator

Oh, I just got an idea of what your talking about. put a piece of cardboard (more like a strip right?) in a bend that will match both the length, and the angle bend. (maybe hold it with tape?) take the cardboard and have them bend it for me?

Yeah, I would just get the hose, but im tired of the crap hoses I have in there, that get all cracked. Plus I looked and the replacement part (one piece of the 3) is 50 bucks on autopartswarehouse.com and even more on some others I have checked.

Cheaper and more efficient to just do it.
No one has answered my question, where does the connection under the airbox do, and what happens to that when I put the pipe in?

infiltrator

Oh, great, I got it, I think.

Where did you get those fittings?
Would Home Depot have them??

I totally understand what you are talking about with the seal.
What can I do, I can't weld? Should I have the muffler shop weld fittings also?

Again, that's 3'' pipe right?

JonnyBoy

Well I work at Home Depot, and I can tell ya they don't have the right angle pieces he's talking about. If, however, you can get your hands on the correct tap to thread holes drilled in the tube, then you can screw the fittings in with some teflon tape. That's what I did, and i used this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

for the piping. If you could get 2.75 inch, might be better than my setup, sorry I have no camera so I can't show ya. I did cut both ends so everything lined up right, it's not a perfect 45* turn from the airbox to throttle body.

infiltrator

Oh, okay, thats a good idea, like a showerhead lol. id have to drill very accurate in order to fit it perfectly, but hell, ill give it a try. maybe lows will have the 90 degree fitting. (ps. what section would these fittings be in? lol)

2.75 i will definately see if i can get my hands on some of that.
one more question for ya. do they do pipe bends at home depot?
and can i find 2.75 in. pipe there as well?

Jay351

I had used plastic piping, to put the fittings in alll I had to do was find 2 fittings that fit the ends of the vacuum lines. Then I drilled my hole and the fittings self tapped the holes, put a little sillicone around the joints and sinched it down No leaks!

JonnyBoy

Jay has a good setup, plastic is easier to tap. No, Depot doesn't do pipe bending, and I didn't ever find 2.75 pipe pre-bent. If you wanna get it all at Depot, go to the conduit or abs pipe sections, the fittings are in plumbing repair(the aisle with faucet repair stuff and p-traps) and I used more like .5 inch brass fittings.
Tap the pvc with the brass fittings and put 'em in with teflon tape. Might even be able to get the flexible couplings for the ends in the abs aisle.

infiltrator

Okay, I am going to try to do this all in one days time.
2 things im worried about

-i have to drill an exact match hole for these fittings. if i dont, im screwed (any advice on how to get it perfect?)
-what happens to the connection BELOW the airbox (the tube splits one goes to the airbox, on goes below what happens to that one????

Elvota

Here is what I did.

From Home Depot
Qty 1: Piece of 3" gray plastic conduit, 45 degree bend. (electrical aisle)
Qty 2: 2.5" to 3" sewer line coupler (plumbing aisle)

From Ace Hardware:
Qty 2: brass elbows. Barbed one end, male thread the other.
Various length of hose

Grand total: around $15

Like others have said, the brass fitting will self tap into the conduit. That gray stuff is at least a 1/4" thick so plenty strong. The 45 degree bend fits right in there. I wrapped my intake with some header wrap I had left over. No real reason though, the pipe holds up fine to the heat.

It's hard to see in this pic, but there is a second line going to the pipe from underneath. You'd also need to fab some sort of support bracket for the filter end. I just used a piece of square stock of the fender wall.

Here is a pic:



One thing, it would be my advice to design your system so no nuts are being used to hold the elbows onto the pipe. If one of those nuts gets loose, it will get sucked into your intake and most likely do very bad things. Plus you'll never really be able to check them for tightness unless you take it all apart.

Elvota

If you are looking to thread a fitting into the plastic, just hold the fitting up to the light and use a drill bit the same diameter as the root (minus the threads). If unsure, start small, try to thread it in... then enlarge slightly if necessary.

Before you take all the factory stuff apart, take a picture or make notes as to where all the lines connected. Then just make sure those lines have a place to tie into your new intake. Some of the "extra" lines are just resonator boxes, used to keep sound down (I think that's what they are for). The boxes themselves will be eliminated.

Most who do the ISR mod will hear a slight "hoosh" from the intake under throttle. Most think it's a good sound though.

infiltrator

yeah, thats the reason for the teflon tape and all that, but i have to make sure those holes are pefectly drilled.

where does the other hose go if i dont mind asking (probably stupid question).
when i took it off, i had one on the top closest to the engine, and that was it.

Edit: okay i guess its the "resonator" how come i didnt remove one when i took out the whole intake yesterday?

this last picture got me worried. what size pipe is that? is that 3'' as well or bigger?
that one looks big maybe i should do the 2.5???

infiltrator

also, so i dont even need to make a "mock" setup. all i need to do is ask them to bend the pipe 45 degrees and it will fit perfectly?

Elvota

Well, you are almost on the right track. The pipe will come pre-bent in 45 and 90 degree sweeps. You just want to buy the 45 degree version. You'll have to cut it to length, but you can just do that with your engine bay for reference. If you are nervous, just buy two so you can practice. If you get it the first time, just save your receipt and return the second.

Either outer diameter of 2.5" or 3" will probably work. When I was at Home Depot, the 3" worked best for me as the 2.5" to 3" adapters from the plumbing made the system come together. I'd bring your AFM to Home Depot to help with finding the right sizes.

With all the ISR mods, we are all just trying to make a smooth tube with no interruptions for the best flow possible. Home Depot probably has an infinite amount of options.

Can't really follow your mystery tube connection question. The factory intake needs to be sealed for the motor to run. All those hoses had to be connected to something before you started all this work or your engine wouldn't have worked.

It's my understanding that all the hoses going to the intake tube (or resonator boxes) are just there to provide clean air to some component. This component will be under some sort of vacuum pressure at the other end. In theory, you could tie all your tubes to one point in the intake if that point was a big enough diameter for the flow.

You just need to make sure all the "mystery" tubes stay connected from their respective component to the intake. Leave any open... engine won't run. Block any of them off... component won't work as designed.

infiltrator

Lol how ironic. the mystery tube is the "Intake Silencer" box under the airbox.

haha. I am so stupid sometimes.

infiltrator

yeah, so i went to home depot today, and they tell me that they dont have or even sell 3'' pipe and that no where around here does. i find that very hard to believe.

what can i do?

recomendations?

Jay351

You have 2 options.

Get a muffler shop to bend you a pipe with a 45 degree angle, then you trim the ends to fit.

Or use plastic piping and adapters for the bend.

I did the latter, but eventually im going to go with a metal pipe. My ISR didnt increase the intake sound at all.