well that was fun... transmission input shaft seal replacement

iamsuperbleeder · 11-14-2009, 04:26 PM

So Thursday afternoon after I get off work, I came home and parked in the driveway for about 10 minutes. I went inside and changed, and then though about how it's been starting to get a little cooler outside, and that I'll be needing to replace my bypassed heater core soon so I wont be stuck in the cold. So I hope in the 'ol girl and head down to the parts store and order a new heater core, and all the heater hoses that go along with it; was like $140 or something. They say they'll be in the next day; okay no problem, I wasn't going to be able to put it in on a Friday afternoon anyway. So I head back home. As I'm pulling back into the drive way at home, I just so happened to notice a generously sized puddle on the driveway of what looked like motor oil from sitting in the truck

So I hop out and look underneath, and transmission fluid is steady dripping from the bottom front of the bellhousing

I KNEW I should have replaced that STUPID input shaft seal when I had the motor out for rebuild...

So anywho, Friday afternoon on my way home from work, I stopped by the same parts store, picked up my heater core and hoses, and ordered a seal...

Got up this morning and started on it. I knew it was going to be a task, but holy crap! What a major PITA!

Got the plate unbolted and got to the problem seal, and it was rock hard, lol, like ABS plastic... It was definately shot; I guess 300k miles on the seal will do that

But at the same time, when I unbolted the top plate holding the shifters in place, I found the shifter bushing had all but cracked in half and was BARELY hanging onto the shifter! I call up the local Toyota dealership, "Oh yeah we get those a lot (suprise...), I've got one in stock right now for $5 and some change". HOLD IT BUDDY, I'LL BE RIGHT THERE!!! SO, I now have a new shifter bushing in place, and it feels OH SO NICE!!! I've been wandering why it's been so difficult to get inso 3rd gear recently

So now with the new input shaft seal on the trans, that really takes care of the last major chore on the truck, asside from the heater core which STILL isn't in... maybe next weekend... lol

But anywho, I'd though I'd share my little project today

sorry, no pics; my hands were pretty darn greasy through the entire project...

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854x4 · 11-14-2009, 06:55 PM

Ya they are a pain, I did mine when I rebuilt the motor.I was surprised that the dealer only wanted $12 for the seal and the parts store wanted $20, first time the dealer was cheaper for me. When you replaced the seal did you remember the paper gasket between the shaft and seal housing? I used ultra black and its been holding so far.

Tubbyfatty · 11-14-2009, 07:04 PM

WHAT??!?!?! No pics? haha

.

Sounds like a real fun time to spend your weekend.

myyota · 11-14-2009, 07:21 PM

Ive replaced heater cores on two 86 4Runners, and you need to remove the complete dash to get to the heater box/heater core, its not hard, its just very time consuming. The first one i did took me six hours because i hadn`t ever done it before, the second one only took me four hours because of the experiance doing the first one. Just a heads up on what your in for.

flyingbrass · 11-14-2009, 07:23 PM

Have any pics? Was the shaft grooved where the seal rides?

I'm debating whether to replace mine while my engine is out. Couldn't really tell what exactly had leaked because the oil had mixed with the crud inside the bellhousing. The little I could dab a finger in felt like engine oil, so I was thinking rear engine seal.

rangerruck · 11-14-2009, 07:23 PM

WHAT!!! a 5 dollar part from a yota dealership? (sniff)... a tear... rolling down..

BigBluePile · 11-14-2009, 07:27 PM

Ok, which seal??!

flyingbrass · 11-14-2009, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBluePile

Ok, which seal??!

If that's directed at me, trans input seal. Let sleeping dogs lie, or replace it proactively while it's easily reached?

BigBluePile · 11-14-2009, 07:53 PM

lol! Naw at bleeder. I gotcha though.

91Toyota · 11-14-2009, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myyota

Ive replaced heater cores on two 86 4Runners, and you need to remove the complete dash to get to the heater box/heater core, its not hard, its just very time consuming. The first one i did took me six hours because i hadn`t ever done it before, the second one only took me four hours because of the experiance doing the first one. Just a heads up on what your in for.

I think this was NOT a well thought out design. I had an '86 Ford Ranger that I had to replace the heater core...20 minutes...no joke.

874runnersr5 · 11-14-2009, 10:56 PM

bleeder, no pics?
common man

flyingbrass · 11-14-2009, 11:01 PM

Yeah, a bleeder thread without pics just isn't right.

peow130 · 11-14-2009, 11:38 PM

Pffft, you think a heater core is hard in the toyota, theres about 6 hours of work to pull a dash on a camaro, then another hour replacing that heater core, and another two huors putting the dash back on...
THAT is one hell of a job.

**Lysmachia** · 11-14-2009, 11:43 PM

Either way getting at the heater core is still a royal PITA on at least 1st and 2nd Gen runners.

Nice wrenching story (iamsuperbleeder)

Gnarly4X · 11-15-2009, 01:13 AM

Holy crap, you have to pull the dash off to get to the heater core!!!!!???

gNARLS.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-15-2009, 06:10 AM

Lol, yeah I just can't wait to waste a day on the heater core replacement

As far as a paper gasket between the seal housing plate and trans, there wasn't one to begin with, just a bead if silly-cone, so that's all I did when I put it back together, was put on a nice bead of the same stuff I used on my rear dif a little while ago.

Yeah sorry about the no pics... I was in a hurry to get it done

Thelast83inNJ · 11-15-2009, 07:24 AM

This may help when you do core. This is how I do most dash out evap/core jobs.These are general steps. Each vehicle are a different treat. Remove console, just drop steering column to seat, unbolt dash carrier and pull it open like a hinge with a ratching tie down strap hooked to passenger side of dash to passenger door striker or passenger seat. Then slide yourself into the opening from the passenger side and unbolt/remove box. No need to remove dash from cab. P/S Audi A6 is 14hrs ,never again. Fun Fun

dhall50 · 11-15-2009, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91Toyota

I think this was NOT a well thought out design. I had an '86 Ford Ranger that I had to replace the heater core...20 minutes...no joke.

Funny because an 85 mustang requires dash removal as well.

Gnarly4X · 11-15-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

Lol, yeah I just can't wait to waste a day on the heater core replacement

As far as a paper gasket between the seal housing plate and trans, there wasn't one to begin with, just a bead if silly-cone, so that's all I did when I put it back together, was put on a nice bead of the same stuff I used on my rear dif a little while ago.

Yeah sorry about the no pics... I was in a hurry to get it done

bleeder, WHY do you need to replace the heater core??

gNARLS.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-15-2009, 11:37 AM

Because after flushing it out after last winter in an attempt to make it work better (which worked GREAT by the way; the heater worked SO much better after flushing a bunch of crap out of the core), I must have flushed out some sort of "plug" in the core, cause it started leaking the following week, lol. It was pouring an antifreeze mist out of the vents inside, so I just looped the coolant hose under the hood to bypass it and stop the leak.

Jay351 · 11-15-2009, 05:35 PM

And that is why im scared to flush my heater core. My truck was run with the cheapest coolant available and never changed before I bought it!

91Toyota · 11-15-2009, 10:30 PM

wow that sucks. Must be nice to have truck heat up under a 10 minutes.

11-14-2009, 06:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
854x4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 197	Ya they are a pain, I did mine when I rebuilt the motor.I was surprised that the dealer only wanted $12 for the seal and the parts store wanted $20, first time the dealer was cheaper for me. When you replaced the seal did you remember the paper gasket between the shaft and seal housing? I used ultra black and its been holding so far. Last edited by 854x4; 11-14-2009 at 06:56 PM.

11-14-2009, 07:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
Tubbyfatty Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Hillsboro, OR Posts: 1,601	WHAT??!?!?! No pics? haha . Sounds like a real fun time to spend your weekend. __________________ 94 4runner / SR5 / 3vz-e / 5spd / 4x4 (duh) / Mudcat EXT 30x 9.5R15s / Marlin Crawler HD Clutch / ISR / Hella 700FFs 100w bulbs / 2 10'' JBL subs / ported sub box / kicker mono amp / Pioneer DEH-P490IB / sitting 1-1.5'' below factory, thanks butt sag...

11-14-2009, 07:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
myyota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Pablo, CA Posts: 1,407	Ive replaced heater cores on two 86 4Runners, and you need to remove the complete dash to get to the heater box/heater core, its not hard, its just very time consuming. The first one i did took me six hours because i hadn`t ever done it before, the second one only took me four hours because of the experiance doing the first one. Just a heads up on what your in for. __________________ 86 Toyota 4Runner Solid Axle Swap, 16'' of lift, 37x12.50-15 GoodYear MTR tires, 5 speed manual trans swap, InchWorm Duel Cases With 5.7 Gears, 63'' Chevy Springs In The Rear, 5'' Trail Gear Springs In Front, Marlin Crawler Third Members, 4.88 Gears With A Detroit In The Rear, High Pinion Front With 4.88 Gears And An ARB, Downey Header, Optima Battery, Trail Gear Sliders, Addicted Offroad Front Bumper, Trail Gear Rear Bumper.

11-14-2009, 07:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 189	Have any pics? Was the shaft grooved where the seal rides? I'm debating whether to replace mine while my engine is out. Couldn't really tell what exactly had leaked because the oil had mixed with the crud inside the bellhousing. The little I could dab a finger in felt like engine oil, so I was thinking rear engine seal. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine.

11-14-2009, 10:56 PM	#11 (permalink)
874runnersr5 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Calgary, AB Canaduh Posts: 2,784	bleeder, no pics? common man __________________ 87' 4runner Sr5 : 22re : 5spd : 32x11.5 BGF Km2 : Cragar 15x8 soft 8s : TG Rock Defense Front Bumper : Sirius radio : Optima Red Top : Pioneer system : Engnbldr tchain kit : Downey 3" leafs : Diff breather : Tube doors : Bikini Top Calgary Toyota Association I <3 my Toyota

11-14-2009, 07:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
rangerruck Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 244	WHAT!!! a 5 dollar part from a yota dealership? (sniff)... a tear... rolling down..

11-14-2009, 11:01 PM	#12 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 189	Yeah, a bleeder thread without pics just isn't right. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine.

11-14-2009, 11:38 PM	#13 (permalink)
peow130 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 755	Pffft, you think a heater core is hard in the toyota, theres about 6 hours of work to pull a dash on a camaro, then another hour replacing that heater core, and another two huors putting the dash back on... THAT is one hell of a job. __________________ 1987 Toyota Pickup DLX. 30" Cooper Discoverer S/T's. 1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites. IFS Club #5 1978 Camaro Z28, 454 Big Block V8 with a 4 Speed.

11-15-2009, 01:13 AM	#15 (permalink)
Gnarly4X Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Casa Grande, AZ, USA Posts: 335	Holy crap, you have to pull the dash off to get to the heater core!!!!!??? gNARLS.

11-15-2009, 06:10 AM	#16 (permalink)
iamsuperbleeder Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Casselberry, Fl Posts: 5,234	Lol, yeah I just can't wait to waste a day on the heater core replacement As far as a paper gasket between the seal housing plate and trans, there wasn't one to begin with, just a bead if silly-cone, so that's all I did when I put it back together, was put on a nice bead of the same stuff I used on my rear dif a little while ago. Yeah sorry about the no pics... I was in a hurry to get it done __________________ 91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system MySpace

11-15-2009, 07:24 AM	#17 (permalink)
Thelast83inNJ Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: wonderful central NJ Posts: 12	This may help when you do core. This is how I do most dash out evap/core jobs.These are general steps. Each vehicle are a different treat. Remove console, just drop steering column to seat, unbolt dash carrier and pull it open like a hinge with a ratching tie down strap hooked to passenger side of dash to passenger door striker or passenger seat. Then slide yourself into the opening from the passenger side and unbolt/remove box. No need to remove dash from cab. P/S Audi A6 is 14hrs ,never again. Fun Fun __________________ What the F***K are we doing here?

11-15-2009, 11:37 AM	#20 (permalink)
iamsuperbleeder Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Casselberry, Fl Posts: 5,234	Because after flushing it out after last winter in an attempt to make it work better (which worked GREAT by the way; the heater worked SO much better after flushing a bunch of crap out of the core), I must have flushed out some sort of "plug" in the core, cause it started leaking the following week, lol. It was pouring an antifreeze mist out of the vents inside, so I just looped the coolant hose under the hood to bypass it and stop the leak. __________________ 91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system MySpace

11-15-2009, 05:35 PM	#21 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,630	And that is why im scared to flush my heater core. My truck was run with the cheapest coolant available and never changed before I bought it! __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

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