fordmgt1

Ok, I'm feeling really bad b/c I sold my jeep and bought a 4Runner to fix up for the trails and can't get it running right. I bought it for $500 b/c the guy couldn't figure out why it was overheating and had replaced the head gasket. Well, I pulled the head off and had it pressure tested, but they said it was warped pretty bad and they were able to resurface it. When the head was off I looked at the plastic chain guides and they looked fine, but I suppose I could only see the upper parts. Now I can crank the motor, and it runs fine, but I am still getting water in the oil, and its a lot of water. I think just from the amount of water it would be the timing chain cover, what else would put a lot of water in the oil, yet the motor still run fine? Is a simple way to test it would be to buy a pressure tested and pull the valve cover and see if there is coolant squirting out of the timing chain cover?

Also, I took off the oil fill cap while the motor was running and it about stalled out, is that normal (does it just cause a loss of vacuum)?

Thanks for all the help.

ozziesironmanoffroad

did u put the HG on upside down? easy enough to do

woodendude

Normal, yes loss of vacuum.

fordmgt1

It looked like it only fit one way, b/c there is a hole on the back passenger side, right? So I put the side up that allowed the hole (a/b 1/2" hole or so) to go through it. I think it was the metal side up on the gasket.

fordmgt1

I also talked to a friend, and he said that it is commone on the 22re to crack in the block by the #1 and #4 cylinders, is this correct? Is there a way to see if this had happened w/ out pulling the motor and having it pressure tested? Thanks.

Squeebs

timing chain may have wore a hole in the cover. common 22r problem.

fordmgt1

would it be worth my while to pressurize the radiator to check if it is a hole in the timing cover? Would I be able to see coolant spewing through the hole if I just remove the valve cover and look down with a flash light?

thook

There's only one way the HG gasket goes on. So, if you were paying attention while installing it and had no problems getting headbolts or the head to mate, then your fine. Metal side up.....yeah.

At most auto parts stores you can get one of those Prestone coolant system flush kits that tap into the heater hose and backflush the entire system. Comes with a T to splice in. Hook a hose to that and turn it on leaving the rad cap on. If the timing cover has a hole, the water from the hose will make it's way through through the pump and into the area of the cover where wear holes are typically made. Problem is once water had gotten into your oil and you've ran the vehicle, your crankcase bearings have already been compromised. Engh....
Flush the block with some kerosene a few times to get all the water/coolant out, refill with oil, run the motor briefly, drain, and refill with fresh filter. Some STP oil treatment would help relube the damaged bearings. Furthermore, you'll want to use the inexpensive oil doing this. You may be good to go for a little while longer. Just listen for knocking or slap afterward.

There's a very good thread that goes into quite a bit of detail (or is it "derail"...) on problems associated with removing the oil cap while the motor is running........

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-wierd-141477/


Tehehehe........

thook

Possible maybe, but I wouldn't say common.

ovrrdrive

fordmgt1

Will I be able to look down by the sprocket and see the water squirting out of the hole? Is it possible to wear a hole in it even if the guides looked ok? I think I may have only been able to see the top portion of the guides with the head off. From what I read you can replace the timing chain cover without removing the head, which I don't wanna do again.

I'm a little worried about the bearings, but I have no idea how long or if the previous owner ran it like that. I only ran it for 10 min. or so, which it ran fine for that long.

Thanks for the help.

misterzee

if the guides are in place, there wont be a groove worn in the cover, unless it was worn already, and then a timing set was installed... you can pull off the water pump and see if there's perforations on the left side... it looks like two grooves.

chewie1014

Me Too!

fordmgt1

The guides are in place, but I didn't see any wear on them at all, and w/ 230000 miles one would expect a lot of wear, so maybe its been replaced and they did not replace the timing cover. I will try to pull the water pump today and pressure test the radiator and see if I can see any wear marks. When we say left side, are you talking passenger side? Thanks for the help.

Ezrider_92356

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1/SUNP0198.jpg

i had a simmular situation, thought i had a blown head gasket pulled the head and it was warped got it shaved new valves and valve guides and seats and seals decided to go ahead and replace the timming set pulled the cover and found that only the very top of the gude was still there the rest was broken off, that is what the cover looked like with 2 small worn threw spots on the water pump part of the cover

abecedarian

I've looked at the head gasket and there really are only two places that oil passes through it, and neither is particularly close to a water passage so the likelyhood of the headgasket being the problem are small unless the truck is laying up a coolant smoke screen everywhere it goes.

The timing cover is the next likely culprit. If you pull the water pump and look in (or feel) and encounter two grooves cut into the side, there's your sign. ... otherwise it is possible that the timing cover gasket itself has failed, allowing water to bypass into the pan.

A cracked block is a very valid possibility as well. A leakdown test and pressure testing the coolant system (with the oil pan removed so you can see inside) may help you nail that down.

Ezrider_92356

iv never head of an 22r or 22re block cracking unless a rod blows threw the side, not to say its not posible

fordmgt1

I really appreciate the help, but I think I may have it fixed, or figured it out. I pressure tested the coolant system to 17psi and it held for an hour only getting down to about 15psi. So I changed the oil two more times and what do you know, after running about 20 min, I still didn't see any chocolate milk on the dip stick and then I drained a little oil out the pan and it looked fine. To me the oil looked thin though, but I suppose that is b/c it was hot.

Wouldn't you expect if water got in, it would be pretty immediate when you saw the chocolate colored milk on the dip stick? Also, if the coolant system can hold that much pressure, one could almost be 100% sure there is no leak, correct? Again, thanks for all the help.

abecedarian

If it was the timing cover had grooves in it, that much pressure would take less than 5 minutes to blow water into the pan. On the other hand, it did leak down 2psi, so either the test unit leaks, or there is another problem. and depending on the severity of the leak into the oil, it could take days or longer before the oil started showing obvious signs of contamination on the dipstick.

fordmgt1

Thats why I'm not celebrating yet, but I noticed that water leaked around the heater core inlet and at another heater hose, so I'm hoping thats why it leaked down a little.