Warmwind76

Just joined up on this site. Good find.

I have an '89 Toyo pick'em up, 4WD, 3.0 EFI V6, 210,000 miles on the odo.

Recently came back from a float on the Gunnison River in Colorado and noticed that when the engine idles down, there is a clatter coming from one side of the engine, like possibly loose lifters or valves. It remains a bit noisy at idle.

Timing belt and water pump replaced at 201,000 miles.

I changed the oil before I left with Valvoline 5W30 high mileage synthetic (was a gift). I normally use the regular blend. I don't know if the synthetic is a contributor to the noise, synthetic being more viscous than regular. Also was getting some pinging under acceleration - 85 octane fuel, what I normally use.

Trying to get a handle on the noise problem so I can discuss it knowledgeably with my mechanic. This is not something I can tear into myself, not being equipped tool wise or being mechanically savvy enough to attempt this. No doubt it won't be cheap.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

jsn_stockard

Whats the oil pres at

FredTJ

Great choice of multigrade.


What in the world gave you that idea ?
The grade rating (in this case 5W30) defines what the viscosity is regardless of type (dine, synthetic, blend).




Fred

abecedarian

Any particular 5W30 (and by definition all 5W30) oil will have the characteristics of a 5W at 0C and a 30 at 100C. This does not mean that every 5W30 oil will exhibit the same flow tendency (viscosity) at every temp in between. Meaning that the transition from 5W to 30W may not be linear in accordance with temperature. Some oils may remain thicker at cooler temps than others only to thin out quickly at higher temps just like some may thin out quickly at cooler temps and slowly thicken to the target viscosity at higher temps.

We're going to come back to this argument again, aren't we?

My take is use the thinnest oil possible to prevent metal-to-metal contact in your engine at start up (if it knocks when you start, maybe go up a step in oil weight). If you hear a knock at start-up with a 5W30, maybe try a 10W30... if you still hear it, maybe a 15W40... and if you're in a moderate climate, maybe go down to a straight 30....

Others will suggest use thinnest oil you can get because it will pump around faster and keep the metal parts from contacting each other, right? ... but who cares if the oil is too thin and the bearings are too worn to keep the oil in the lubrication system....
If you hear noise when you start the engine, it's already too late to use a thin oil.

Personally, I don't experience much if any difference in mileage in my 88 4Runner whether I use a 5W30 (but have oil leaks and noise) or use a 20W50 (which doesn't leak a drop for months and starts like a sewing machine). Any subtle variations in mileage from using the thinner oil is more than easily compensated for by the 1-2 quart of oil per 500 miles I have to add when using 5W30 versus adding no oil for 5000 miles with 20W50.

Your experience may vary though.

Warmwind76

Couldn't tell you without hooking up a gauge. I don't have the fully instrumented dash, just speedo, temp, and fuel, and the usual assortment of idiot lights. I did install a tach. The truck is stock.

Warmwind76

An expert on oils I am not. Just pick on on a few things through the years talking with mechanics, both pro and duct tape. I was told more than once that the synthetics are not necessarily the best to use for older motors because the various gaskets are also old and more brittle, thus are more prone to seepage: the synthetics at temp are "thinner." Is this fact? I don't know. I haven't noted any leakage from the engine other than the usual goop that accumulates.

FTR, I keep up on changing out the oil, including filter, on all my vehicles every 3 to 5 thousand miles depending on how hard I have been pushing the vehicle and where I've been. Always use Valvoline.

Warmwind76

The knock was probably the cheap 85 octane gas I bought in Delta 85 octane is standard regular grade in Colorado). What concerns me is the clatter coming from the engine on idle down. It is an old truck after all, just now entering into its third life.

Winter's coming. I don't know if it is a good thing go to a straight 30 weight. I may need the high clearance to go where my Subie cannot.

FredTJ

Why would you think that you need to run a straight 30 weight (or any "straight" weight at that) when it's cold out (winter time) ?

Are you sure that the "clatter" is not simply valves, that is you need to adjust the valves.
Having said that, the only way you know for sure about what weight oil to run is to check out the vehicle with an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge.



Fred

Warmwind76

To follow up...

Well, did some investigations, had some folk take a listen including the auto shop I generally use. Went down to the local Toyota dealership, who have a good rep.

Conclusion: a wrist pin going Tango Uniform.

Could go completely soon.

Could be a while before it fails completely.

Doesn't matter, probably means major surgery.

Rebuild or replace engine.

Everything else on the truck is good, considering the 211,000 miles on the odo.