Valve Lash/Shim Adjustment HELP?! Video included
08-25-2010, 01:05 PM
#1
Valve Lash/Shim Adjustment HELP?! Video included
VIDEO: http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/6826/cimg1028.mp4
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My truck was left running because I was warming it up to go home late from a party, then I fell alseep inside the house. (dumb) There is an oil leak from the front main seal I think. Anyway I was being neglectful, (it was low on oil to begin with) and it ran without oil until it stopped. Didnt seize or warp anything to my knowledge, I drove it all the way across town to get it home after all. Its loud as you can ascertain from the video, and it drives without much power especially during the high end of a gear. It also will die when out of gear if i dont rev it.
I hypothesized that it was a valve issue. I did compression checks and my piston rings are crappy but the valves seem ok. Im in the process of replacing the valve shims so my gaps are good, as they were worn.
One of the valve shims is extremely worn compared to the rest, but the gap wasnt far off from waht the others were. (i figure the valve plunger or whatever its called is worn?) Im guess im going to close valve shim-cam lobe gap to specification like the rest...just thought it was wierd.
I just wanted to know if you guys had heard that noise before and if what Im doing should fix it. Your advise is greatly appreciated!!
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My truck was left running because I was warming it up to go home late from a party, then I fell alseep inside the house. (dumb) There is an oil leak from the front main seal I think. Anyway I was being neglectful, (it was low on oil to begin with) and it ran without oil until it stopped. Didnt seize or warp anything to my knowledge, I drove it all the way across town to get it home after all. Its loud as you can ascertain from the video, and it drives without much power especially during the high end of a gear. It also will die when out of gear if i dont rev it.
I hypothesized that it was a valve issue. I did compression checks and my piston rings are crappy but the valves seem ok. Im in the process of replacing the valve shims so my gaps are good, as they were worn.
One of the valve shims is extremely worn compared to the rest, but the gap wasnt far off from waht the others were. (i figure the valve plunger or whatever its called is worn?) Im guess im going to close valve shim-cam lobe gap to specification like the rest...just thought it was wierd.
I just wanted to know if you guys had heard that noise before and if what Im doing should fix it. Your advise is greatly appreciated!!
08-25-2010, 01:15 PM
#3
But i was told that if I had thrown a rod it would have siezed by the time I drove it halfway home. I drove it like 10 miles to my house. When initially started it I had to jump it, and when i dumped some oil in it the noise stopped for a few minutes then came back by the time i was to my house.
08-25-2010, 01:25 PM
#4
Registered User
I drove(limped) 3-4 miles after I spun a bearing on the highway on my 22r. I was able to free it up a few times by popping the clutch. That is way too loud to be any valve tap. If you completely wiped a bearing then chances are it won't completely seize up. Now if you broke a rod then it will. But wiping a bearing and throwing a rod are two completely different problems.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 08-25-2010 at 01:26 PM.
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08-25-2010, 03:11 PM
#8
Registered User
he ran it out of oil till it stalled out and now sounds like that. at the very least that crank is screwed no doubt about it if not the whole motor is toast.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 08-25-2010 at 03:16 PM.
08-25-2010, 05:10 PM
#10
Registered User
just goes to show, how resilient these motors really are even when they are run completely dry without oil, they will still want to take some more abuse.
08-28-2010, 07:12 AM
#11
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How poetic...... When driving home from work last night, I spun a bearing.......See what u started coltonstewart.....LOL.
Well, I had 344,127 on the origional.... Only 1 head change at 110,000.... Guess I can't complain. Besides, now I'll get to start a build tread!!!!!!!
Goons use the Camryn til spring and then it's either a 3.4 swap or a 4.3 swap... Haven't decided which to do.
I bought this truck Oct 17th, 1994 and would never think of giving her up....it's a family member a this point.
Well, I guess this was the push I needed to give the truck the attention it needs, engine swap mild lift and electronics upate......
Well, I had 344,127 on the origional.... Only 1 head change at 110,000.... Guess I can't complain. Besides, now I'll get to start a build tread!!!!!!!
Goons use the Camryn til spring and then it's either a 3.4 swap or a 4.3 swap... Haven't decided which to do.
I bought this truck Oct 17th, 1994 and would never think of giving her up....it's a family member a this point.
Well, I guess this was the push I needed to give the truck the attention it needs, engine swap mild lift and electronics upate......
08-31-2010, 09:42 AM
#12
Hey guys I appreciate the replies, Sorry my reply time is slow!!
So am I gonna need to get under the bearing cap and replace the inserts most likely? Can I get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?
xxxtreme, you said my crank is screwed...I can close the gaps with inserts right?
Oh I forgot to mention that in addition to the other symptoms, when i hit the high end of a gear I hear a nasty rattle that sounds sorta like a piece of tin flapping around...is this concurrent with a "spun rod bearing"?
So am I gonna need to get under the bearing cap and replace the inserts most likely? Can I get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?
xxxtreme, you said my crank is screwed...I can close the gaps with inserts right?
Oh I forgot to mention that in addition to the other symptoms, when i hit the high end of a gear I hear a nasty rattle that sounds sorta like a piece of tin flapping around...is this concurrent with a "spun rod bearing"?
08-31-2010, 10:15 AM
#14
Hey guys I appreciate the replies, Sorry my reply time is slow!!
So am I gonna need to get under the bearing cap and replace the inserts most likely? Can I get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?
xxxtreme, you said my crank is screwed...I can close the gaps with inserts right?
Oh I forgot to mention that in addition to the other symptoms, when i hit the high end of a gear I hear a nasty rattle that sounds sorta like a piece of tin flapping around...is this concurrent with a "spun rod bearing"?
So am I gonna need to get under the bearing cap and replace the inserts most likely? Can I get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?
xxxtreme, you said my crank is screwed...I can close the gaps with inserts right?
Oh I forgot to mention that in addition to the other symptoms, when i hit the high end of a gear I hear a nasty rattle that sounds sorta like a piece of tin flapping around...is this concurrent with a "spun rod bearing"?
08-31-2010, 10:31 AM
#15
Nice repost!
The relevant question isn't "can" but rather "should you get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?".
Answer=YES to both. You'd be pretty much asking for trouble down the road if you didn't do them all while you had the lower end apart already to replace either.
"Crank is screwed" would tend to mean it will most likely need machined to remove scoring/scratches/dents on the journals. If so, then replacing the bearings(inserts) without having those defects corrected would be HIGHLY ill advised.
That nasty rattle could be a number of things, including the valve train, oil pump, etc.. So I recommend a FULL upper/lower tear-down inspection to be "safe".
The relevant question isn't "can" but rather "should you get the main bearings and rod bearings at the same time?".
Answer=YES to both. You'd be pretty much asking for trouble down the road if you didn't do them all while you had the lower end apart already to replace either.
"Crank is screwed" would tend to mean it will most likely need machined to remove scoring/scratches/dents on the journals. If so, then replacing the bearings(inserts) without having those defects corrected would be HIGHLY ill advised.
That nasty rattle could be a number of things, including the valve train, oil pump, etc.. So I recommend a FULL upper/lower tear-down inspection to be "safe".
Last edited by MudHippy; 08-31-2010 at 10:34 AM.
08-31-2010, 11:15 AM
#16
Registered User
you would not hear valve tapping or anything else from inside the house with the door shut. screen or no screen in the window.
that knock you here I am 100% sure it's because there is absolutely no bearing left between the crank and the rod.
this is what a spun rod bearing crank journal looks like:
notice the top part where it looks like the journal is cracked. It's not, that's what was left of my bearing after it pretty much melted itself to the journal. This was just from a 1-2 mile limp off the highway.
There is no way your just gonna be able to just slap another bearing (insert???) in there and it will hold before you get down to the end of the block? let alone the half hour your gonna have to run the engine before even leaving the driveway. It will have to be either replaced by a new crank or a machine shop will have to shave it down and will have to use oversized bearing on it.
In addition to the crank bearing toast, I'd be willing to be that rod will be done for as well and might be able to be cut down by the machine shop to round it back out.
Main bearings will not be able to be changed without taking the crank out which means the entire motor has to come out.
I would hope to heck your not driving that thing like that. But that tin flapping sound is most likely the piston itself hitting the sides of the block (kinda like piston slap but not really the same thing) scoring the heck outta the sides of the cyl walls because the rod is not holding the piston straight in the bore any longer.
that knock you here I am 100% sure it's because there is absolutely no bearing left between the crank and the rod.
this is what a spun rod bearing crank journal looks like:
notice the top part where it looks like the journal is cracked. It's not, that's what was left of my bearing after it pretty much melted itself to the journal. This was just from a 1-2 mile limp off the highway.
There is no way your just gonna be able to just slap another bearing (insert???) in there and it will hold before you get down to the end of the block? let alone the half hour your gonna have to run the engine before even leaving the driveway. It will have to be either replaced by a new crank or a machine shop will have to shave it down and will have to use oversized bearing on it.
In addition to the crank bearing toast, I'd be willing to be that rod will be done for as well and might be able to be cut down by the machine shop to round it back out.
Main bearings will not be able to be changed without taking the crank out which means the entire motor has to come out.
Oh I forgot to mention that in addition to the other symptoms, when i hit the high end of a gear I hear a nasty rattle that sounds sorta like a piece of tin flapping around...is this concurrent with a "spun rod bearing"?
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 08-31-2010 at 11:17 AM.
08-31-2010, 11:47 AM
#17
you would not hear valve tapping or anything else from inside the house with the door shut. screen or no screen in the window.
He obviously wasn't inside the house if the truck was in gear.
that knock you here I am 100% sure it's because there is absolutely no bearing left between the crank and the rod.
Granted.
Main bearings will not be able to be changed without taking the crank out which means the entire motor has to come out.
Incorrect sir. They can be replaced without removing the crankshaft from the engine or removing the engine from the engine bay. How would I know? I'VE DONE IT ON MY 3VZE AND IT DIDN'T! Though, with a damaged crank, doing so would be ridiculous to say the least.
I would hope to heck your not driving that thing like that. But that tin flapping sound is most likely the piston itself hitting the sides of the block (kinda like piston slap but not really the same thing) scoring the heck outta the sides of the cyl walls because the rod is not holding the piston straight in the bore any longer.
As stated prior, to be in the "high end of a gear" requires driving it.
Piston slap? I wouldn't doubt it. But, remember, the top end requires constant lubrication too. And likely hasn't faired to well from the experience either. Well worth looking into, IMO.
He obviously wasn't inside the house if the truck was in gear.
that knock you here I am 100% sure it's because there is absolutely no bearing left between the crank and the rod.
Granted.
Main bearings will not be able to be changed without taking the crank out which means the entire motor has to come out.
Incorrect sir. They can be replaced without removing the crankshaft from the engine or removing the engine from the engine bay. How would I know? I'VE DONE IT ON MY 3VZE AND IT DIDN'T! Though, with a damaged crank, doing so would be ridiculous to say the least.
I would hope to heck your not driving that thing like that. But that tin flapping sound is most likely the piston itself hitting the sides of the block (kinda like piston slap but not really the same thing) scoring the heck outta the sides of the cyl walls because the rod is not holding the piston straight in the bore any longer.
As stated prior, to be in the "high end of a gear" requires driving it.
Piston slap? I wouldn't doubt it. But, remember, the top end requires constant lubrication too. And likely hasn't faired to well from the experience either. Well worth looking into, IMO.
08-31-2010, 11:52 AM
#18
Registered User
yeah but the video shows the rapping (not the later mentioned tin flapping sound) when he is still inside the house. did you watch it? lol
unless that thing is idling at 5,000 RPM (there is no one in the drivers seat reving it up) that IS a rod knock.
unless that thing is idling at 5,000 RPM (there is no one in the drivers seat reving it up) that IS a rod knock.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 08-31-2010 at 11:55 AM.
08-31-2010, 11:58 AM
#19
Registered User
just for the ones who doubt me you decide if this sounds the same:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FMU245LMUw
"After taking the motor apart we found the #1 cyl crankshaft journal was cracked and had spun the bearing as well."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FMU245LMUw
"After taking the motor apart we found the #1 cyl crankshaft journal was cracked and had spun the bearing as well."
08-31-2010, 11:59 AM
#20
I indeed did watch it. Inasmuch as it pained me to do so. Poor motor, it certainly didn't deserve to be treated in such a way as to result in that cacophany.
Oh, I believe ya. Trust me, I do!
Oh, I believe ya. Trust me, I do!
