Valve Cover Gasket
#1
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Valve Cover Gasket
Got a leak coming from the back of the engine block, so I'm going to replace the valve cover gasket. Yes, I'm getting the one with new semi-circular plugs. I have a couple newbie questions:
Do I need to get some "gasket tack" to keep it in place while I flip it upside down? I don't want to have to go back to autozone while I've got the thing apart.
I just need plain RTV for the semi-circular plugs, but not the gasket itself - does that sound right?
Any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks!!
P.S. I replaced the starter last night without incident - I'm so proud of me!!!!
Well, unless you count forgetting to disconnect the positive cable and having a firestorm of sparks in my face while under the truck......
Do I need to get some "gasket tack" to keep it in place while I flip it upside down? I don't want to have to go back to autozone while I've got the thing apart.
I just need plain RTV for the semi-circular plugs, but not the gasket itself - does that sound right?
Any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks!!
P.S. I replaced the starter last night without incident - I'm so proud of me!!!!
Well, unless you count forgetting to disconnect the positive cable and having a firestorm of sparks in my face while under the truck......
#2
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I always put some sealer on the half moons on the ends of the head. None for the cover itself. When installing the half moons, the edge of them that seats on the inside and the outside of the head can get curled up if not careful, especially on the back. Really pay attention when installing it. You cant see it for themost part but you can run your finger in the back by the fire wall and feel if it is a half circle and you should be able to see the inside of the head to make sure it is seated correctly.
While you have the cover off, replace the PCV grommet. It gets rock hard and will not let the PCV valve out. Most likely it will break on you. You should be able to get the pieces out with some needle nose pliers and such. To avoid having the grommet to get hardened like they do, I just change the grommet with the PCV valve on normal changes.
Anytime I have the valve cover off, I just do a quick retorque of the head bolts. I sit the torque wrench 5 pounds below normal torque specs. That will let me know if any head bolts are loose. I have found some loose head bolts on trucks that way and was able to retorque them to the correct specs.
I have found two trucks with loose head bolts and retorqued them and they still have not blown a head gasket. Not sure why they were loose but is just something I do.
Great job on the starter. Each repair gives you confidence for the next fix.
While you have the cover off, replace the PCV grommet. It gets rock hard and will not let the PCV valve out. Most likely it will break on you. You should be able to get the pieces out with some needle nose pliers and such. To avoid having the grommet to get hardened like they do, I just change the grommet with the PCV valve on normal changes.
Anytime I have the valve cover off, I just do a quick retorque of the head bolts. I sit the torque wrench 5 pounds below normal torque specs. That will let me know if any head bolts are loose. I have found some loose head bolts on trucks that way and was able to retorque them to the correct specs.
I have found two trucks with loose head bolts and retorqued them and they still have not blown a head gasket. Not sure why they were loose but is just something I do.
Great job on the starter. Each repair gives you confidence for the next fix.
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I always rely on The Good Book. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf (page 35-36) I don't have much experience with the 22re, but if you skip the "seal packing" (RTV) step on a 3VZE, I can almost guarantee it will leak. Get the head as clean as you can; RTV is sticky, but not if there is any oil on the metal.
You have a choice between FIPG and RTV. I believe the main difference is that FIPG sets up in about 60 seconds, which is good if you're charging by the hour and are really fast. If you are as uncertain as I am, you'll want the longer "open time" of RTV. The RTV instructions suggest you finger-tighten the fasteners, let it sit for 4 hours or so (overnight), then torque them down.
You have a choice between FIPG and RTV. I believe the main difference is that FIPG sets up in about 60 seconds, which is good if you're charging by the hour and are really fast. If you are as uncertain as I am, you'll want the longer "open time" of RTV. The RTV instructions suggest you finger-tighten the fasteners, let it sit for 4 hours or so (overnight), then torque them down.
#4
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I use Permatex Ultra-Grey for the semi-circular plugs. Just a thin coat around the curved portion, and a dab at each edge.
I definitely agree with Terry on the PCV grommet. The part number is 90480-18180.
EDIT: I forgot to mention... Don't over tighten the 4 valve cover nuts. Tighten them until they just start to compress the rubber under the washer. If they are too tight, your rocker arms may contact the valve cover and make a clanking noise.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 04-17-2015 at 06:24 AM.
#6
I read so much about overtightening the valve cover bolts that I just went 1/4 turn passed seated. I found it to be much less than the factory torque specification. So far no leaks.
I also read so much about the 1/2 moons leaking that I purchased the FelPro 1/2 moons that are thicker/fatter than the Toyota part to try and stop them from leaking. When I installed them I found they are so fat that they don't want to sit flush when you first put them in place. When you tighten the valve cover down they get driven/squished in place.
I have no clue what brand the old 1/2 moons were but when I removed them they were stiff, almost to the point of being brittle.
Again, no leaks so far.
Ultra Grey or Toyota FIPG sealant.
From what I've read you want to use Permatex Ultra Grey. Do not use Black or any other color as they are supposed to be "slightly" different formula's. I used FIPG and that stuff does set up fast but I let it sit for 24 hrs before I started the engine.
I also read so much about the 1/2 moons leaking that I purchased the FelPro 1/2 moons that are thicker/fatter than the Toyota part to try and stop them from leaking. When I installed them I found they are so fat that they don't want to sit flush when you first put them in place. When you tighten the valve cover down they get driven/squished in place.
I have no clue what brand the old 1/2 moons were but when I removed them they were stiff, almost to the point of being brittle.
Again, no leaks so far.
Ultra Grey or Toyota FIPG sealant.
From what I've read you want to use Permatex Ultra Grey. Do not use Black or any other color as they are supposed to be "slightly" different formula's. I used FIPG and that stuff does set up fast but I let it sit for 24 hrs before I started the engine.
Last edited by Odin; 04-17-2015 at 12:26 PM.
#7
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Gaaahhhhh!!
So I found my #2 head bolt (according to the manual's numbering) sticking up a whole inch - tried to tighten it but it is completely stripped. Oh well, guess it's been fine all this time *fingers crossed*
Going to continue with the cover installation as advised.
Going to continue with the cover installation as advised.
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#9
Thanks for starting this thread. I'm planning to re-install/reseal my seals because it's leaking at the front half-moon. I have a feeling the shop that rebuilt my 22R-E did not seal it properly. Arlindsay's video of valve clearance adjustment shows proper sealing of the half-moon here.
My parts/supplies list follows :
Re: Aluminum billet semicircular plugs (aka half-moons)... How is your experience with the aluminum billet half-moons? 22RE Performance has them (here).
My parts/supplies list follows :
- Cylinder head cover gasket (1 piece): Part No.: 11213-35010 ($14.36 @ Toyota Parts Deal)
- Plug, Semicircular aka "Half-moon" seals (2-pieces). PN 11183-38010 ($9.46 @ Toyota Part Deal) Front and rear are identical, correct?
- Washer, Seal(For Cylinder Head Cover) aka "Grommets" (4 pieces), PN 90210-08026 ($3.94 EACH @ Toyota Parts Deal, but store only sells 10 pieces at a time. Meaning it would cost $39.40 even if I only need 4))
- FIPG or Permatex Ultra-Grey sealant
Re: Aluminum billet semicircular plugs (aka half-moons)... How is your experience with the aluminum billet half-moons? 22RE Performance has them (here).
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-15-2017 at 01:02 PM.
#10
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Thanks for starting this thread. I'm planning to re-install/reseal my seals because it's leaking at the front half-moon. I have a feeling the shop that rebuilt my 22R-E did not seal it properly. Arlindsay's video of valve clearance adjustment shows proper sealing of the half-moon here.
My parts/supplies list follows :
I haven't found PN's yet. Would appreciate if you could add to this thread.
Re: half-moons, how is your experience with the aluminum billet half-moons? 22RE Performance has them (here).
My parts/supplies list follows :
- Cylinder head cover gasket (1 piece)
- Half-moon seals (2-pieces). Front and rear are identical, correct?
- Grommets (4 pieces)
- FIPG or Permatex Ultra-Grey sealant
I haven't found PN's yet. Would appreciate if you could add to this thread.
Re: half-moons, how is your experience with the aluminum billet half-moons? 22RE Performance has them (here).
I was just checking availability and prices on these items since I'll be doing a valve adjustment (and PCV and head re-torque now) soon.
#11
Updated Parts List Above ...
Regarding the aluminum billet half-moon aka semicircular plugs (https://22reperformance.com/22re-gas...num-half-moons), How was your experience with them?
Regarding the aluminum billet half-moon aka semicircular plugs (https://22reperformance.com/22re-gas...num-half-moons), How was your experience with them?
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-04-2018 at 04:24 AM.
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