Valve clearance/shim adjustment - '88 3VZE
#1
Valve clearance/shim adjustment - '88 3VZE
I have an '88 4runner with the 3VZE and just got the heads back from the machine shop. After getting the cam installed on the right head (on the bench), I started to check the clearances so I could order the correct shims (I marked and measured all the old shims before reassembly). According to Murphy's Law, there is zero clearance in every valve, and a negative clearance on at least one of them. So now I know I have to get much smaller shims to adjust the valves... but what is the best way to do that without buying more shims than I need (or can afford)?
My first thought was to order a set of 6 shims in the smallest available size of 2.20mm, but at nearly $10 each, that would be a bit much.
My next thought would be to flip the head over and measure the clearance between the valve and the valve seat to get a number for adjusting the valves. I tried this last night and found that all but one valve seemed to be closed all the way since the smallest feeler guage size would not fit. I think it was .0015"? It's such a flexible strip that I would think it would conform to the curve of the valve and slide in if there was any opening. I did find one valve with a negative clearance that I measured to be .004" between the valve and the seat (using the method noted above).
Has anyone had experience with this? Am I on the right track with option 2?
Thanks!
Patrick
My first thought was to order a set of 6 shims in the smallest available size of 2.20mm, but at nearly $10 each, that would be a bit much.
My next thought would be to flip the head over and measure the clearance between the valve and the valve seat to get a number for adjusting the valves. I tried this last night and found that all but one valve seemed to be closed all the way since the smallest feeler guage size would not fit. I think it was .0015"? It's such a flexible strip that I would think it would conform to the curve of the valve and slide in if there was any opening. I did find one valve with a negative clearance that I measured to be .004" between the valve and the seat (using the method noted above).
Has anyone had experience with this? Am I on the right track with option 2?
Thanks!
Patrick
#2
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Have you considered buying one 2.20mm shim, and using that to measure the clearance on each valve? Then you'll know exactly which sizes you need. And don't overlook asking to borrow one from the machine shop. (When I had my heads done, part of the price was to adjust the valves. I now suspect that they have a big rack of shims, so that the "new" ones I got were actually used, and my "old" shims have since been sent out on another head.)
Remember that it is possible that you already have some of the "right" thickness shims, just mixed up. You've already marked them all; now measure them carefully. Then compare that to the sizes you measure that you need. You might get lucky.
Remember that it is possible that you already have some of the "right" thickness shims, just mixed up. You've already marked them all; now measure them carefully. Then compare that to the sizes you measure that you need. You might get lucky.
#3
Have you considered buying one 2.20mm shim, and using that to measure the clearance on each valve? Then you'll know exactly which sizes you need. And don't overlook asking to borrow one from the machine shop. (When I had my heads done, part of the price was to adjust the valves. I now suspect that they have a big rack of shims, so that the "new" ones I got were actually used, and my "old" shims have since been sent out on another head.)
Remember that it is possible that you already have some of the "right" thickness shims, just mixed up. You've already marked them all; now measure them carefully. Then compare that to the sizes you measure that you need. You might get lucky.
Remember that it is possible that you already have some of the "right" thickness shims, just mixed up. You've already marked them all; now measure them carefully. Then compare that to the sizes you measure that you need. You might get lucky.
Is there a similar tool for toyotas?
I can probably use the shims from the exhaust valves on the intake since they are thinner (.115 on the intakes and .108 on the exhaust). That would probably bring the intake's into spec, but would be on the tight side at best. I may have another look at it all tonight.
#5
I may try ordering one 2.20 shim as suggested. I was hoping to avoid taking the came out more than necessary. Is there a way to remove the shim with the cam in place? I've done the job on Volvo 4-cylinder and own the spring compressor tool shown here: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6281/...ompressor-tool
Is there a similar tool for toyotas?
Is there a similar tool for toyotas?
You're supposed to use these...with the cams still on.
http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH8825.../dp/B0014DF1AG
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-22-2011 at 05:24 PM.
#6
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Last time I adjusted the valves on my 3vze, I just used a magnet tool to remove the shims, one long handled flat for leverage and to pry down on the side of the bucket, a block to hold the pry, and small flat head to weasel the shim toward the magnet. I know......it's not recommended, but it works and no damaged to anything was incurred. That steel is pretty freakin' hard. Really.
Anyway, I took my clearance measurements before removing the shims, wrote everything down in order of valve association, pulled the shims marking them one by one according to which valve, and headed up to the dealership. To my fortune, they had a huge box of used shims. They measured mine with calipers, we calculated the differences, and they simply traded me shim for shim....save one size they didn't have. But, that was just a few bucks. Yeah, the 4rnr was down for a couple of days, but I had my back up 4rnr in the meantime.... Installation was basically the same, but much easier than removal.
Anyway, I took my clearance measurements before removing the shims, wrote everything down in order of valve association, pulled the shims marking them one by one according to which valve, and headed up to the dealership. To my fortune, they had a huge box of used shims. They measured mine with calipers, we calculated the differences, and they simply traded me shim for shim....save one size they didn't have. But, that was just a few bucks. Yeah, the 4rnr was down for a couple of days, but I had my back up 4rnr in the meantime.... Installation was basically the same, but much easier than removal.
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don't put any shim in and measure the clearance, then select from the shims you have to fill in where they work. when you're done, order shims to fit where you didn't have one ready to fill in
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#8
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(Damn'it, dude....you editedtedted your post)
I highly doubt you could get that first tool in there to wedge against the bucket. The second one is like what is shown in the FSM. Good luck finding one locally. I know my area sucks in the way of odd tools.
I highly doubt you could get that first tool in there to wedge against the bucket. The second one is like what is shown in the FSM. Good luck finding one locally. I know my area sucks in the way of odd tools.
Last edited by thook; 12-22-2011 at 05:26 PM.
#11
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How do you propose to rotate the cams so as to measure each clearance in sequence without shims in the cam followers?
Secondly, exactly what are you measuring against the cam lobe? The follower itself?
Thirdly, why go through all the trouble to remove the shims to then take a measurement (which should be done with the existing shim) and then have to put them back in so you can rotate the cams? And, then take them back out so you can take your measurement? And, then put them back in so you can rotate.....etc, etc. I guess this really leads back to my first question.
#12
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what's the shim do?
take up clearance between the follower and the cam lobe.
take the shim out and measure the clrearance between the folower and cam, then you knwo what size thick shim goes there...
no?
take up clearance between the follower and the cam lobe.
take the shim out and measure the clrearance between the folower and cam, then you knwo what size thick shim goes there...
no?
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Okay, I'll bite........
How do you propose to rotate the cams so as to measure each clearance in sequence without shims in the cam followers?
Secondly, exactly what are you measuring against the cam lobe? The follower itself?
Thirdly, why go through all the trouble to remove the shims to then take a measurement (which should be done with the existing shim) and then have to put them back in so you can rotate the cams? And, then take them back out so you can take your measurement? And, then put them back in so you can rotate.....etc, etc. I guess this really leads back to my first question.
How do you propose to rotate the cams so as to measure each clearance in sequence without shims in the cam followers?
Secondly, exactly what are you measuring against the cam lobe? The follower itself?
Thirdly, why go through all the trouble to remove the shims to then take a measurement (which should be done with the existing shim) and then have to put them back in so you can rotate the cams? And, then take them back out so you can take your measurement? And, then put them back in so you can rotate.....etc, etc. I guess this really leads back to my first question.
why not just measure the clearance without a shim and select a shim that fits so clearance is good?
#14
Like I said...measure how, with what? As in with what tool/meter/gauge/device/instrument of measurement are you going to get an accurate measurement of that.
Have you done this before?
Have you done this before?
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-22-2011 at 06:03 PM.
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maybe an internal caliper?
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