Smeddy2

89 4runner 22re (obviously manual transmission). My clutch has been acting up and it finally just gave up tonight. Occasionally it would not engage but if I pressed the clutch pedal a few times it would engage and I could go on my way (mostly when it has been really cold outside). Tonight I got in the truck, started it up and it lunged forward (clutch won't disengage). I basically had to drive home by massaging it into gear without pushing in the clutch. I checked the slave cylinder and the plunger appears to move the way it should but the clutch won't let go.

I have also been experiencing a loss in power and low gas mileage but I don't know if that is a related issue or not.

I'm guessing this means I have an internal clutch problem but I wanted to get your opinions. Any thoughts?

Edionne13

Have you checked the master slave?

Smeddy2

I'm not sure I know how to check the master cylinder. All I know is the slave cylinder push rod is moving and pushing the clutch fork.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Double check that your clutch bracket has not failed before pulling the trans.

Make sure your new clutch kit parts match what comes out of the vehicle.

Smeddy2

Yeah I was originally ruling out the typical failures because I did see movement of the slave cylinder. I'm going to try to check the pedal bracket tonight and just make sure it is okay. I suppose my master or slave could still be slightly broken and they just aren't pushing the rod far enough. Does anyone know how far the push rod is supposed to move? Maybe I can try to manually push the clutch fork in to disengage?

RJR

This sounds like the fluid in the master cylinder might be low. Have you checked the fluid level? Shortly after I bought my truck, before I even knew it had a hydraulic clutch, that happened to me with exactly these systems. Checked and the reservoir was almost empty. Once I filled it and the air bubbles worked their way out, it was fine again.

Smeddy2

Well I checked my bracket and it's solid. I have hardly any free play in the pedal. Fluid is right however it is rather dark and probably in need of flushing.

I hopped in the truck now that it's warmer and the clutch works fine! I'm at a loss. Maybe I have some debris or ice in my bell housing that sporadically gets in the way? Clutch release bearing on the way out and acts up when cold?

Smeddy2

Any idea how much I'm looking at to pay someone to do a clutch job? Its too cold and I have too little time!

RJR

It could be that your old, dark, fluid is turning to molasses in the cold weather, or perhaps has some moisture in it which is freezing and blocking flow to the master cylinder. Brake fluid is very hydroscopic and loves to absorb moisture from the air. If the master cylinder doesn't have a free flow of fluid to it, it won't be able to completely fill and push adequate fluid down the line to activate the slave. The fact that you could "pump it up" to work after a few cycles sure makes it sound like a fluid flow problem.

Since it has warmed up, get a can of clean brake fluid, open the bleed valve at the slave, and pump most of a can of fresh fluid through it. Then close the bleed valve, top it off, and see what happens.

Smeddy2

Thanks, RJR! That's a plausible cause. I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Get a fluid catcher bottle for this with atleast a 6-8" flexae hose that connects to the bleeder valve. This is clear so you can see the color of the fluid as it flows out and prevents air bubbles from sucking back in to the system. Just what I have found that makes it easier. Also check and see if someone makes a bleeder valve replacement with a check valve. Maybe Dorman makes one. I know those make bleeding breaks a snap imagine they would do the same for the clutch system. Good luck

RJR

^^^ Good advice. I kind of skipped the details - thanks for filling those in.

NickS022

Also check your firewall mine was cracked all to hell and had to fab a brace plate to support the clutch pedal bracket assembly

Stetson_md

SpeedBleeders

Smeddy2

Thanks for tips guys! I actually have a mityvac that I use to bleed brakes and clutches. I flushed the fluid out until it ran clear. Wow was it dark! Hopefully this fixes my problems. I'll let you know if it doesn't. Thanks again!

Smeddy2

Well sadly the flush was too little too late. It helped a little bit but the clutch still isn't 100%. Looks like I'll be replacing my master cylinder and slave. Are the ones from big box stores alright or should I try to find OE Toyota? I think the slave cylinder I have on there now is from advance auto and it was new a couple years ago.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

eBay or amazon for oem Aisin usually about the same $ as parts store. Worth the piece of mind.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Smeddy.. I got some parts off of you, one I remember is the back glass. You gave me a great deal on those and I appreciate it. Depending on how soon you want to do it and if you wanted to bring it to my house, I would help you get it done, no problems. In my area to have a clutch replaced and with the parts, it is about a $600 dollar job. If you want to do it at my place, it will need to be warmer. PM me if you want to go that route.

I got an Aisin clutch off of Rockauto if I recall right. Still got to put it in my 88.

Smeddy2

Thanks fishguy, I'll see what I can find.

Terry you are correct! I'll see how things go with the hydraulics and if that doesn't work I may be giving you a holler. I think your white runner is the cleanest one I've seen yet! Thanks for the offer!

Smeddy2

Thanks again, Terry! I just received my shipment today from RockAuto and these parts are visibly in a whole other class! I love some high quality parts!

Hopefully the weather on Saturday morning will be nice enough that I can swap out these parts. Wish me luck!