DIRT CLOD

Just replaced the C.V.'s and I still have the " POP...KLUNK" hard clunking jerks and jolt. The axles needed replacing as they were slipping out of joint and the boots were almost none existent. I thought this was the loud HARD clunking until I finished R&R and it is still making it, especially when turning....what is going on, anyone? Do I need to replace the whole assembly?

DIRT CLOD

went out, 4 lo to 4 hi and back and forth and 2 hi... it only does it in 4 whl.... so disappointing I was hoping to go wheelin this week....

coastal runner

I've had this same problem recently. Its as though the bedliner paint that I put on my sway bar binds on the rubber mounts when I turn sharp. Is that what you experience as well? Like a loud POP or CLICK noise?

peow130

Are you trying to turn sharp on concrete in 4wd?
Do your gear ratios match?
Do you have your steering at full lock?

If so, there is two solutions to your problem: Stop putting it in 4wd on concrete, and stop trying to turn at full lock in 4hi.

DIRT CLOD

even at 1/4 to 1/3 turn or so it pops.... no, not like bed, this is in front.
concrete, grass, it doesnt seem to matter. gears match, all original. its not like the "click click pop" you get from turning with bad c.v.'s. It a jarring JERK klunk, hard enough to make suspension bounce.
Mounts?
inner shafts?
ring and pinion or spiders?

It is sort of like turning on pavement with 4 whl engaged only multiplied times 100!
I am going to stop in at a yota shop I go to here in town on the way hm from work tomorrow. "Toy Auto" . I am really hoping its fairly cheap but it SURE doesnt sound cheap.... I mean its like there is a gnome down there with a 100 lb sledge...

DIRT CLOD

(i do like the simplicity of changing the C.V.'s on this rig though.

COULD BALL JOINTS CAUSE THIS? just a thought though I am pretty sure they are good

DIRT CLOD

where
can I find the info on what gear ratio my diff has?

jbtvt

I think entering your VIN # on Toyodiy.com should give you the ratios. Not the ball joints if it's only in 4wd. Sounds like you should take that diff cover off. Maybe the hubs aren't fully engaging also?

DIRT CLOD

Will do on the toyodiy.com. I thought the hubs were always engaged (locked) with ADD, as the axles turn at all times until you engage the diff.... yes cover coming off. Dont know why I have'nt done that yet. Guess I was hoping for a solution before I knew the ctual problem, wondering if it was common and could get straight to it....damn, this is going to really throw a wrench in my 3.4 purchase.

DIRT CLOD

I just made this post that i had to copy and paste stuff from research and when i went to post it i had to log back in!!!! And lost my post , starting over.... Why do i have to log back in when i am aleady logged in and after 5 minutes idle it signs me out? What is somebody going to steal my post?... Wtf

DIRT CLOD

so , again
my model # VZN130L-GKMGEA

FINAL GEAR KIT, DIFFERENTIAL, FRONT
41201-39725 VZN10*, 110, 13*..R, *FGR=43:10=4.300 41201-39736 VZN13*..R, *FGR=41:9=4.556

FINAL GEAR KIT, DIFFERENTIAL, REAR
41201-29855 VZN10*, 110, 13*..R, *FGR=43:10=4.300 1 41201-80011 VZN13*..R, *FGR=41:9=4.556

I assume my gear ratio is 4.556 due to the (VZN130L) IN MY MODEL #

IS THIS CORRECT?

angrybob

Takes 5 mins to know for sure...

From another thread:

I say "for sure" because unless you are the original owner, you really can't rely on the code...people change stuff

BMcEL

You need to use the axle code. More info here.

And yes, auto-disconnecting-differential means it disconnects in the diff itself, so the axles turn full time. Have you checked your CVs? Have you verified the front differential is disconnecting?

BMcEL

Ya beat me. x2 for double-checking, but the code is a good starting point to see what they should be.

DIRT CLOD

Ok. talked to my bud. at Toy Auto and he is determined to state that he thinks the fron U joints need replaced. If they are locking up it would definately KLUNK and pop and pitch the car to the side as it is binding, causing the suspension movement. (torquing down one side when binding)... checking that now. Since it is ADD it is locked at the diff and not the wheels, so by removing the front shaft I am determining whether it is in the joints or the foront diff assembly somewhere....( fingers are crossed, u joints are a hell of alot cheaper than ring and spiders!)... ALSO, anyone know where, besides toyota I can get an oil cooler gasket)?

DIRT CLOD

yes just replaced c.v.'s thats why this thread was started the noise and jerk continued. It only happens when the diff. is engaged so yes it is disconnecting.
Just removed front drive shaft!
The popping and noise is still there. Does'nt jerk and slam as badly though ( There is no power transmitted to the front drive so I assume it would not be as pronounced) so I am unfortunately thinking ring gear. I guess I will find a used 4.556 front diff. to replace it.

DIRT CLOD

I am quite certain the equipment is original. I am the 3rd owner, however, I have EVERY reciept and all paperwork that has come with or been done to this vehicle. Including the repair certificate for the HG recall performed as well as scheduled maintenance records (I think the original owners must have been a bit A retentive if you know what I mean), including the original factory invoice and window sticker....lol.. but i guess checking to be sure wont hurt as this vehicle is my DD.

BMcEL

Missed that part...it was in the first post too.

Tear that diff open and see what ya see.

DIRT CLOD

no choice at this point but pull cover. sad thing is everything I see is 4.10... The 4.56 seems much harder to get.... will folow up post later... thanks guys