Matt16

I'm doing the front brakes this weekend. The rotors are very slightly warped and it pulses when coming to a stop. I barely notice it, but its there.

First off should I bother with the rotors assuming they are in spec? Last time I did the brakes on my '89 pickup, the brakes squeaked like mad after changing the pads- my friend said at the time that it was because of the rotors weren't turned (machined). The FSM doesn't call for machine the rotors when changing the pads.

I've heard some people machine the rotors every second time the pads are changed. What do you do?

Matt16

Also I plan on using cheap brake pads, because I'm a cheap student. I don't brake hard much as I don't drive fast and I usually just let the engine slow me down.

Is there a flaw in my reasoning for using cheap pads?

Alex 400

I just did my brakes and they work great. I will give some advice as i have done quite a bit of brake work believe it or not.

1. NEVER GO CHEAP ON BRAKES!!!!!!!! WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, YOU NEED TO STOP!!!!!!! It is cheap insurance. You want your brakes to always be there.

2. The pads squeaked most likely because the pads were glazed over and therefore creating undo heat causing the rotors to also glazed and not produce the friction needed to stop without getting hot, which creates the squeaking. Think of a drill bit when you are drilling through metal and the bit gets hot. Starts to squeak.

3. The rotors need to be measured with a brake micrometer in the deepest groove to see if there is enough material left to be able to turn the rotors. If they are warped, you must measure the runout of the rotor with micrometer like you used to your ring gear set up.

4. If your rotors are warped, they need to be turned. It is a good idea if you want your pads to set in well to have the rotors turned as it will get rid of the smooth, glazed surface of the used rotors. if not, i picked mine up for like 45 bucks at a local auto parts store. If they are not warped, yeah you can just throw some new pads in the calipers and call it good, but beware of the lip that builds up at the inside and outside of the friction area. These lips can dig into new pads if you are not careful.

5. Pads. I got Pro Ceramic pads, like 50 bucks. They don't squeak, they don't chatter, they are great. The cheaper you go, the more likely they will glaze over, squeak reduce braking power and generating too much heat and causing the rotors to warp, putting you back at square one.


hope that helps.

Alex

Noltz

They're a lot of trouble to pull off, Matt. Mine are pulsating too.. just putting off doing them until I've got the 2 hours needed to do the job right. And I won't machine rotors on a truck as heavy as the runner. For all the work involved, I put on new or don't bother at all. Just me. Just need it to be safe? Take the new pads & scuff the surface with 120 grit paper before installing. A little anti-seize on the back of the pads works well to keep chattering away too. Just put pads on for now and live with the pulsation. When a few bucks comes your way, get fresh rotors and pads together.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

if you do pull off the rotors, dont bother machining them... the stock rotors kinds suck... id go with a set of powerslot rotors... they cost ballpark 100 each, but will never warp... the guy at the parts counter has a 90 2 door 2wd that he road races and swears by those rotors and EBC Greenstuff brake pads...

anyways, he beats on his rotors every weekend and has never had a problem with warping, and has never had to turn them in 2 years...

Whitey13

I disagree with recommending him the Powerslots. He stated that he is on a budget, so he can get Brembo blanks for around $45 each which will be more than sufficient.

Mic09dcsm

Just turn the damn things, it is over ten years old.

dbcx

If your on a budget pull em of and get them turned. Take them to someone you know if posible sothey dont take to much off of them. Most places nowadays will just make a heavy fast cut and take off way more than needed shortening the availalble life of turning them again in the future, and then come back with a heavy slow cut to smooth it up. Alot of times that is enough to get your rotors out of specs and you cant turn them again.
A good place will make a fast cut, just taking off what is needed thats it, then they will make one slow cut to smooth the surface nice. That will leave plenty of material for future for muliple turnings in the future if needed.
New rotors lay on the shelf and warp it doent hurt to get them hit with a light cut to check them.
Some of the high dolar rotors may be ok , I would ask the manufacturers advice on turning them.

mmcpeck

I agree, just pull them off and mic them, if they still have enough meat on them turn them. But check and see how much you can get them turned for if it's like $20 a rotor you might as well replace them.

But to answer your question, not doing anything to them is pointless, the warping will get worse they will squeal because of the warping, squeal is caused by the pad vibrating in the caliper.

If you are really strapped for cash, try roughing up the rotor with sandpaper or a wizz wheel if you have one. It will help but will not be the right way.

Rotors get glazed up from heat, the glaze reduces friction. The pads glaze up also as they wear against the rotor. So if you put in new pads with new nice new surfaces on them and they go right up against glazed rotors, it will glaze your new pads pretty quickly.

Also tightne up your rear drum brakes after you do the front.

Matt16

Is this because you are reducing the distance the front pads travel to contact the rotors? I thought they were always dragging a little bit.

Simple question. I know its in the FSM, but tightening up the rear brakes means poking a screwdriver thought the access hole in the back of the drums and tightening up the cog-like adjuster right?


I'm probably just going to do the pads if the rotors are a hassle. I don't have the cash for new rotors now. The OEM pads are $80, probably going to go with those, as that is on par with the other prices I was quoted. They was the super cheap pads, but the guy at the parts store said they don't last, and ate the rotors- so more expensive in the long run.

Again, this isn't a performance vehicle, I only hit the brakes hard in a panic stop, I always lift so I coast to a stop, annoying the poor driver behind me til he's frothing at the mouth by about the 3rd stop sign or light.

22mr2

If I remember right, your runner would have come with an organic pad as original equipment. They are very inexpensive, like 30 bucks from napa, and ive run them with very good results. If your rotors are warped, you may be able to cut them and have them be ok, or have the warp come right back after your first panic stop. You would have to measure and see how much is left before machine to or discard specs. Its a gamble. If you do decide to get new rotors, try to get a NON chinese casting. Most of the castings are very impure and rust from the inside out.

22mr2

and dont forget to adjust the back brakes, if they are out , they will warp the rotors also

Whitey13

That's correct, but I find this method to be a gigantic PITA. On my third gen, I just do the e-brake trick and it worked well. Search around for some more info on that.

Matt16

You mean reverse hard and pull the E brake? Anyone had much success with this on e 2nd gen. I didn't seem to.

Matt16

Can you explain this one to me? I'm not following.

Whitey13

He just means that if the back brakes aren't adjusted properly, the fronts will be doing more than their fair share of work, thus warping faster.

Matt16

IC, someone just got to a thousand posts. Now you can post dirty pictures and you won't get in trouble for it.