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A little over half a year ago I made a post asking about the viability of turbocharging a stock 22re (linked below) and now I have finally got around to making it happen.
My plan is to put a td05-12b turbocharger on the stock 22re engine, with the AFM positioned in front of the turbo intake, so the air will be properly metered.
I plan to run low boost so the compression should be find, and the fuel should keep up with the low boost.
Here is some background on the engine:
160k miles (3k after full rebuild)
New head, valves, cam, pistons, rings, bearings, water pump, oil pump, timing cover, timing components, fuel pump, thermostat, radiator, etc.
Engine and fuel management is all stock, and it has no knock detector since it's a 94 2wd pickup.
Here is mock up of the turbo approximately where it will be in the engine bay.
turbo position mockup
I made the exhaust flange by tracing the exhaust ports onto a piece of 3/8 steel plate, which I then drilled out on a milling/drilling machine, after that I cut the extra plate off of the flange, and then milled out the middle to give clearance for the spark plug wires.
Drilling exhaust ports with hole saw in mill.
Next I sketched up a few possible manifold designs, then proceeded to cut out some angled pieces of 1-1/4" steel pipe to make 90* elbows, along with some straight angled pieces for the inner ports.
Test fitting manifold pipe sections together.
After some measuring, marking, and careful angle grinding, I tack welded most of the manifold pieces together. Then I cut down a turbo adapter that I had previously made for a different project, leaving just the flange and a bit of pipe, then I ground it to fit the main manifold pipe. Next I marked out on the manifold where the turbo flange would go and cut it out with a hole saw, and ground it to fit with a carbide burr, on a die grinder.
Turbo manifold parts layed out and tacked.
I then added a 1/8" npt pipe fitting just before the turbo flange for an EGT probe. After that I welded up the manifold pipes.
Turbo manifold pipes welded.
Then I welded the manifold to the flange and use the carbide burr to grind off any slight misalignments of pipe sections.
The turbo bolted up to the manifold.
For oil supply to the turbo, I bought an adapter to go from the 1/8 BSP oil tap under the passenger engine mount to 1/8 npt where I will use a TOC hose to feed oil to the turbo. For oil drain I will use a tapered punch to make a hole in the oil pan, then tap it for 3/8 npt thread and use a 5/8" silicone hose for drain.
The turbo water supply will be chained in after the IACV's water feed before being returned back to the port over the thermostat.
I have the turbo flange off centered, so that the turbo itself will be centered over the exhaust manifold, allowing clearance for the power steering pump. Equal length runners is not important for my application, just look at the stock 22rte manifold, it has the turbo mount even farther back.
For tuning i'm just going to go for low boost, and i'll let the stock ECU do its thing, my AFM's spring has lost tension over the years causing it to run rich, so I'm not too worried about running lean with low boost.
you will be waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better off running megasquirt. The factory ecu will fall on its face. The factory ecu is barely enough to run the NA motor.
I definitely agree the stock ecu is very minimalistic. This has been a budget build, and I've seen it done with the stock ecu with low boost before. If problems arise I look into getting a megasquirt.
IIRC the DIY PNP megasquirt for the 22re is $799 little pricey. I don't wanna end up spending more than the truck is worth in the end.
I installed the oil drain by punching a hole in the oil pan and tapping it for 3/8" npt pipe thread. I covered the threads with RTV silicone sealant then tightened it up, it should have a nice seal. oil drain hose barb installed into pan
The oil feed was installed into the unused plugged oil gallery port located under the passenger side engine mount. To do this I ordered a 1/8-28 BSP to 1/8-27 NPT adapter which a hose barb was threaded into. Then a 5/16" TOC hose supplies the oil to the turbo.
To make room for the turbo downpipe I cut the end off of the hard line for heater core return, and clamped a heater hose on the remaining pipe.
Heater core return relocation.
All of the hoses are now routed to the turbo.
Next I will work on the wastegate, intake, and exhaust.
Looks Great! I will be watching this....your project looks a lot like what I did to my 97 toyota with a 2rz a few years back. I ran a t3 with 7lbs boost on the stock ecu. It ran great! You will not regret what you are doing....Keep up the good work!
Looks Great! I will be watching this....Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the complement!
I figured up the wastegate linkages, I had to fab up a new BOV block off plate that included a spot to mount the waste gate, then I added a spring below the waste gate to reduce the max boost to a reasonable amount for this engine, and it is easily adjustable.
I also wrapped the turbo manifold in fiberglass insulation to help keep bay temps down without a heat shield. My intake and exhaust pipes came in today, just waiting on gaskets and some intake couplers to come in the mail.
I plan to finish by the end of the weekend, and I will upload a youtube video of the final product!
I estimated the final total cost of all the parts, for adding this turbo will be under $250...Not bad at all. When I finish I will post a parts/cost list.
Over the weekend I welded up the intake pipes, and the turbo downpipe. I cut out gaskets, wired an EGT gauge and all those little things. Tonight I bolted up the turbo, and the downpipe, fitted together the intake plumbing, and plumbed oil and water to the turbo.
I was able to do a test drive (no muffler) and the there is alot of turbo noise
Tomorrow I will finish the exhaust, install the o2 sensor, and upload a youtube video of it all.
An intercooler will always help keep things cooler....but in low boost applications its not a necessity. Plus they can be a pain in the nuts to pipe on these crowded trucks. I ran my truck at 7psi and had no problem. I did do meth injection after awhile....Im guessing that cooled things down a bit.
I've been following this build and I'm very curious to see the outcome. If everything works as you expect, do you think you might revisit the design (refine it)? For example, by having custom bent pipes made for the plumbing? I applaud you on your effort and wish you luck.
I used thick paper exhaust header gasket between the manifold and the turbo, it was rated for only 1200F so the thin sides blew out within the first mile of driving. With the gaping holes in the exhaust before the turbo it would still spool to 4 PSI at around 4k and up at 3/4 throttle and up. Tomorrow I will pull everything apart, machine both the manifold flange and the turbo housing flange flat, then use a thin copper gasket with grease on it. (The grease should coke and help further seal the surfaces.)
I could really feel the boost when it kicks in, so I am excited to see the performance on the lower end once half the exhaust is no longer blowing out before the turbo.
The plumbing in the engine bay is pretty tight as is, so it would be a huge pain to add an intercooler, and I don't think much would be gained with one either with
pain to add an intercooler, and I don't think much would be gained either with less than 6 psi of boost.
I have been thinking about adding methanol injection using a hobbs switch at 5 psi and up, where does one get methanol for cheap? Are you just using plain methanol/water washer fluid?
Also after driving there is a lot of vapor/smoke coming out of the crank breather, I did disconnect the PCV since I don't trust the checkvalve to keep my boost in. Is that normal?
I'll be sure to post a youtube video once I get the blown exhaust gasket fixed.
Attached are pics of the blown gasket, the boost gauge, and my temporary exhaust coupling fix 0_o
Last edited by RatOmeter; 02-27-2016 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: The less than symbol apparently cut off my last post
02-09-2016, 02:57 PM
