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Turbo Auto to Manual swap questions

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Old 05-29-2009, 08:56 PM
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Turbo Auto to Manual swap questions

I just acquired a beautiful, 1 owner, fully documented, 1986 extra cab, fully loaded 22RTE powered truck. The only "problem" is that it is an automatic. I'd like to swap it over to a 5 speed.

I know I will need a 151 transmission. Are all the 151s the same? What years and engines was the 151 behind? Will I need a different t-case, too? Is the transfer case turbo specific? Is the flywheel turbo specific or will any 22 series flywheel work? Do I need a specific clutch fork?

The parts I think I need are:

Pedal assembly
Clutch master/slave/line
release fork
clutch components
flywheel
"turbo" bell housing
transmission
manual cross member
t-case?
Drive shaft(s)?

Is the engine computer different for a manual?

Thanks,
Dave
Old 05-29-2009, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MoGas
I just acquired a beautiful, 1 owner, fully documented, 1986 extra cab, fully loaded 22RTE powered truck. The only "problem" is that it is an automatic. I'd like to swap it over to a 5 speed.

I know I will need a 151 transmission. Are all the 151s the same? What years and engines was the 151 behind? Will I need a different t-case, too? Is the transfer case turbo specific? Is the flywheel turbo specific or will any 22 series flywheel work? Do I need a specific clutch fork?

The parts I think I need are:

Pedal assembly
Clutch master/slave/line
release fork
clutch components
flywheel
"turbo" bell housing
transmission
manual cross member
t-case?
Drive shaft(s)?

Is the engine computer different for a manual?

Thanks,
Dave
Awesome choice Dave!

The R151F is a little hard to find and can run a little expensive, but make sure you buy one when you do find it. Check in the classifides here on YT there was a guy in Maine selling one that i read about yesterday. They come out of 1986-1987 and maybe a 1988 Turbo Pick-up.

Generally when you find your transmission, the transfercase is attached already and there will be no need to buy a separate one. the turbo transfercase is def a sought after transfercase.

Any 22r series flywheel should work, i dont think Toyota messed with that.

Pedal assembly - YES
Clutch master/slave/line - Buy the master and slave (lol) new from an auto parts store
release fork - should come with transmission, if not, try and find the proper one
clutch components - make sure you buy a new one from a store or possibly a HD one from marlin
flywheel - I bought a brand new one from Advance Auto for like $65 when i did my swap
"turbo" bell housing - should come with transmission
transmission - ...
manual cross member - should come with transmission
t-case? - should come with transmission
Drive shaft(s)? - IDK for sure, someone else will have to chime in here

Also be sure to buy brand new flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts from Toyota. Just go to a dealership and tell them you need those for your year truck and they will hook you up.

Have fun, good luck!

EDIT: forget to mention that you can just jump two wires from the automatic harness together and it will make the truck think it is in Neutral or Park 24/7. I konw that for the A340H found behind the 3VZE, this is the case, but idk for sure on yours.

Last edited by 881stGenRunner; 05-29-2009 at 10:04 PM.
Old 05-30-2009, 12:07 AM
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Actually, the turbo flywheel and a turbo clutch will have to be used. The Turbo setup uses a 9 1/4" clutch, instead of the 8 7/8" clutch.

Most of the main components are the same, ie Master cylinder, lines, slave, etc.

The Drivelines are going to be different lengths, so you would be best to find the turbo drivelines as well.
Old 05-30-2009, 12:12 AM
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Turbos were only 86-87. All the enhanced or fortified parts that were made for the turbos went into the V6's in 1988, wider rear ends, transmissions, brakes, etc.

Good luck with the swapping.
Old 05-30-2009, 12:14 AM
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Except the clutch setup And trans/case etc.

The 22RTE is a 6 bolt flywheel, the 3VZ is an 8 bolt.
Old 05-30-2009, 05:25 AM
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22rte flywheel

Here's some info that will save you some research; some of it is repetative.
22re takes a 8 7/8 clutch, the 22rte takes a 9 1/4" clutch. It takes the same clutch as a 5m-ge in a 5 speed Supra or Cressida (pre 7m-ge). Toyota Part number for the 22rte flywheel was 13405-35030 this is no longer available, but has been superseded by toyota part # 13405-39106. This new flywheel takes the 9 1/4" clutch and many people don't know this, but these flywheels can be found on 92/8 to 96 2.4l (22re) 4wd Toyota Pickups.
I'm no expert, but from what I've seen toyota 5 speed transmissions all have the same splined input shaft and they all use the same pilot bearing. The output shaft of a Turbo 5 speed (R151F) has 23 spline where a normal w series tranny (22re) has 21 splines, that makes them a stronger unit. They also have a lower 1st. gear ratio which is another reason why they are so sought after for 4wd rigs.
As far as a 22rte flywheel is concerned, you can use it if you want to!
It's a question of what you want and what you are going to do with your rig. It will all work together, it's just that the 22re clutch is not as strong as the 22rte clutch. It's smaller diameter gives you a smaller contact surface.
Right now I'm restoring an 86 4 runner that was a factory turbo. I'm trying to keep it pretty much stock, other than switching it from auto to manual. I have a R151f tranny and transfer case. I already have a 22re flywheel and clutch and it will probably work great for how I intend to use the 4Runner, but I sourced a 22rte flywheel for no other reason than that's what the pickup's had.
On the wiring side, the question is what kind of a job do you want to do? Are you the type of person who takes their time and makes their build clean and factory looking or are you the type of person who is satisfied with just throwing something together to make it work?
The computers were the same for the 5 speed and the auto. The auto has it's own computer (ECT computer) and is connected to the engine (EFI)computer by 5 wires, disconnect these and the EFI computer doesn't know it was ever connected to an ECT computer and works the same. You can jumper the neutral switch as was stated above and make it work, but then your truck can be started in gear. As a safety issue that is not good if there are ever going to be small children in your truck. (Kids will be kids) It's not a big job to wire the clutch cancel switch in the dash or the clutch safety switch that is attached to the clutch pedal up under the dash. You have to get the clutch pedal from a donor vehicle anyway and you have to wire in the harness for your back-up lights to make it street legal, it wouldn't be much of a job to get the wiring harness that you need from the donor vehicle also. (Auto back up lights are controlled from the neutral start switch, manuals have a back up light switch located on the back of the transmission that you have to run a harness to)
Vehicle wiring diagrams are not that hard to figure out, it's not rocket science! Once you get to know the color code they are pretty easy to follow.
The key is a factory service manual, though the Haynes and Chilton manuals give you great info a FSM is head and shoulders above them!
Good Luck!
Old 05-30-2009, 09:51 AM
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Here's mine

Old 05-30-2009, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by T-1000
Here's mine

Since it's all palletized up and ready to go, I'll just pm you my address......
Old 05-30-2009, 03:43 PM
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There WAS also an 85 22R-TE for a few production months. Not that it really matters.

Good luck on the manual swap. I'm in the middle of collecting parts for my turbo 5 speed swap.
Old 05-30-2009, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by annoyingrob
There WAS also an 85 22R-TE for a few production months. Not that it really matters.

Good luck on the manual swap. I'm in the middle of collecting parts for my turbo 5 speed swap.
That would be the perfect truck......An 85 turbo with a 5 speed.
Old 05-31-2009, 08:15 AM
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They were late production trucks, so they were technically 86. All Turbo trucks were IFS rigs. Toyota never built a Turbo SFA truck for America.
Old 05-31-2009, 11:01 AM
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There is a 5 sp turbo down here in the valley on CL for cheapish. It might be worth it in the long run to buy up the whole thing to scavenge the tranny stuff and any other parts you might want down the road, then part out/scrap the rest. This assumes of course that you have the time, patience, and storage space for such an undertaking. Good luck.

Mike
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1197065436.html
Old 09-18-2009, 04:15 PM
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OK, I found a 1994 22RE truck with a blown motor that the guy is parting. I am getting first crack at all the parts for conversion. I know it is a "W" tranny and not the R151, but the truck is just a commuter with light off road use (forest service roads) and no bigger than 31's. (I'll actually probably just stay with the 235s) so I think it will hold up just fine.

The donor truck is an extended cab '94.

Will the cross member, pedals, and drive shafts work on the recipient '86 Xtra cab or is the frame different?

Will I have to modify the shifter to clear the pocket under the radio on the '86?

I want to double check my checklist as I will only get one shot at this.

Transmission from flywheel to end of transfer case

Pedals

Slave

Master

Hydraulic lines

Clutch cancel switch

Harness pieces for the back up lights

Transmission cross member


Thank you all very much for the help.
Dave
Old 09-19-2009, 02:49 AM
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Your crossmember will work no need to replace that as will your driveshafts, so that will save you some money.

You will need the manual transmission mount though (spendy from toyota) so definitely get that.

You will need to cut the floor for the transfer case shifter since it sits farther back on the manual tranny.

Buy new clutch master and slave cylinders.

I ran a w-56 behind a 22RTE for a few yrs with no problems, the extra 45 or so horse won't make any difference. I was also running 35" tires on mine.

Don't need the clutch cancel switch, you will need to jump the neutral safety switch on you current trucks harness.

get the hydraulic line from master to slave.

I'm not sure if there are any differences between the pedal mounts from 86-94 so somebody else will have to chime in on that.
Old 09-19-2009, 03:04 AM
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..instead of jumping the neutral safety switch wires, tap them into your clutch pedal switch. This way you can only start it with the clutch fully depressed. The red/white and blk/org are the backup switch wires and you'll need to run two wires from the 4wd indicator to the dash if you want to have it lit up when in 4lo or 4hi.
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