toyota4x4907

Quote: Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder yet another AFM supporting responce I wasn't supporting it, i was just responding to your post . It can't be 100% ruled out though, you never know! The OP DID say he got code 12 wheres I got code 32, and that he already checked the first few things. Looks like he needs to maybe swap in a different ECU.

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'95 4runner|22re|5spd|130K miles|ISR| 2" BL| 31x10.5 |two 170mm LightForce|anti-sway bars removed f/r|Warn manual hubs|ADD bypassed|Diff breather extensions|XLPerformance muffler
'88 4runner|22re|5spd|206K miles|Sold
'93 single cab|22re|5spd|150K miles|Sold|
Pro IFS

muddpigg

I say use a diagnostic aproach to solving the problem. Every one is possible right and possible wrong. Shoot all the sensors, injectors, ECU could be fine, for all we know a furry little rat/squirrel/mouse crawled into the truck and decided to teeth on a wire. Or that some someplace in the wiring harness has been rubbing on a sharp edge till it shorted.

But its not my truck so the point is really rather mute.

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iamsuperbleeder

you gotta watch out for those critters; they'll deficate in your filters and clog them up too

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91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system


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stevenbrick

I used the multimeter I recently purchased to ohm out the Air Flow meter last night one more time before I order a new one tomorrow. The AFM ohmed out good when I brought it into the house. I had disconnected it's wire harness and ohmed it out on the truck two days ago and I could not get any resistance readings at all, so I was sure it was bad. Now after this second check with correct readings, I am looking at the trouble code again which says Ne and G signals not present within 2 seconds to the ECU after starting. The Ne signal comes from the igniter but I can't find where the G signal comes from on the Haynes EFI schematic. Haynes doesn't show a G signal on the ECU.

Steven

iamsuperbleeder

maybe "G" for Ground?

I dunno, but that supports MuddPigg's theory

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91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system


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abecedarian

Well... it starts, and runs, if even for a few seconds so it would seem the grounds to the engine block and head... without which the starter wouldn't crank, the injectors wouldn't fire and the sparkplugs wouldn't light up... do work....
The ignitor is getting a signal from the distributor though to fire the plugs, but the ECU isn't getting the signal to calculate RPM, ignition advance and injector firing.

Hate to be hard headed but... what's the CEL code again?

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stevenbrick

I replaced the igniter and it does the same thing, starts, trys to run then dies. I decided to ohm out the 12volt wire to the positive terminal on the coil. That wire with the key off ohms out 65 ohms. This wire I believe should be open to ground and not 65 ohms. I took the resistance reading with the negative terminal on my battery disconnected. I took a voltage reading for this wire with the key on and there is 11.54 volts there. The voltage at the battery is right at 12 volts. I think the problem is in the wire from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. I will try to run a new wire and see if that fixes the problem.

abecedarian

Did you disconnect the coil from the igniter when you tested it? If not, you'll get parallel resistance through the igniter.
You should disconnect the igniter and test resistance between the primary terminals (+ and -) should be between 0.5 and 0.7 ohms, and between the + and secondary terminal should be between 11.4K and 15.6K ohms. Additionally, there should be no continuity between the terminals and body of the coil.

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stevenbrick

On my stock igniter the wires were connected from the igniter and the 12v wire from the switch, but the igniter I acquired from the salvage yard had the wires cut and seperated, so when I took my resistance readings the wires were disconnected fromt he coil and seperated. I purchased new 14 gauge wire today to replace the 12v wire from the switch to the coil. There is no continuity between ground and the wire from the igniter. There is only continuity to ground on the 12v wire from the switch. These wires are connected to the coil together when connected to the coil, so I think that is why the Ne signal is not reaching the ECU do to being grounded out to some degree (65 ohms). I will let you know what happens when I replace the 12v wire from the coil to the switch. Thank you.

Steven

abecedarian

/me has crossed fingers.

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stevenbrick

Yesterday evening I replaced the 12volt wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and hooked everything back up to try to start the engine. Now the engine will not try to start at all, not even for 2 seconds. I think I must take it to the local Toyota shop at this point. I am out of clues at this point. 12 volts is present at the coil when the ignition switch is on.

Steven

iamsuperbleeder

did you ever determine if it's killing the motor from a lack of fuel or spark?

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91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system


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lightemup

check vac lines u might have a leak. check the one thats at the left rear of the valve cover that one tends to come off if u remove the valve cover at least it does on mine and i always forget about it. but dont take it to a dealer they like to screw u over

Wile E. Toyote

I am having this same problem basically. I have been working on a 'project' truck for awhile. Cab and EFI swap to a frame and 22r motor. Trying to get all the vac lines in the correct place, still missing a couple. Starts right up then dies a few seconds later. Please let me know if/when you find your issue, maybe I have the same.

edit
Oh yeah, Code 12 NO ”Ne” signal to ECM within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked. On a 88.

stevenbrick

I took my truck to Taos Off-Road Performace which specializes in Toyotas. Within an hour they had found that a different ECU (ie. computer) made the truck run great. They are ordering me a remanufactured computer and I should have the truck back by next Tuesday if all goes as planned. Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions. I really learned a lot thanks to this group.

Steven

zlathim

Cool, I have been following this thread from the shadows. I'm glad you got it figured out.

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muddpigg

How much did it cost to have someone else diagnose your truck?

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abecedarian

Well a faulty ECU would explain the trouble code and the symptoms.
Good luck!

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iamsuperbleeder

well yeah, a faulty ECU could cause a LOT of crazy things to happen, lol

glad you figured it out man. sux that it's as expensive as the ECU though

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91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system


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chopitrakeit

Hey, see my post http://www.yotatech.com/f116/q-cold-.../#post51032636
We may have a similar prob. Whats you vehicle? Mike

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