PlayAwhile

So I fell in love with a 1993 22RE pickup, 4x4 with manual locking hubs. My skills are only beginner/intermediate, so I might have bitten off more than I can chew.

I knew it still had the original clutch, so I took it in about 6 months ago to have that replaced.

Totally unrelated to that, last month I started hearing a grinding noise from the front right hub. A few garages told me the bearings were fine, and I was just "hearing a heat shield" - which I knew was B.S. So I started to take things apart myself.

The CV boot was intact, but the inside looked really bad. It right wheel appeared fused to the axle, so I popped the hubs off. The inside of one of them was filled with grease but it was all dirty and shiny metallic. One of the pieces inside was ground up to a fine powder. The other one didn't look much better.

Those manual hubs are tricky to find, but I ended up finding 2 in good condition. I took these into a garage (these guys were awesome!) and had them replace both axles, and both manual hubs. I should be good to go!!

After a few hours of driving though, I suddenly got a loud squeal, which honestly sounds a heck of a lot like a belt pulley. But it was relentless. It seemed related to the clutch in the sense that if I put the truck in neutral, and I let out the clutch, it went away. But that could be because the engine was at it's lowest rpm's, I dont know. But then it suddenly went away completely while driving.

An hour later, it's back! As I shift from 0 to 60mph it doesn't stop or go away, just remains a continuous squeal. Then after about 20 seconds it stopped again!

Now I'm super paranoid. Could it be a belt that just coincidentally started to squeal? The only thing I can think to check is to put it on a lift, put it in gear, and see if the front tires spin. If they do, I could be looking at the same or similar major problem. I am also going to have a shop look at the belts to make sure the tension is right. It cant be a clutch already, can it? It feels grippy and I doubt the garage would have trashed it.

Any ideas on what I can check to ease my paranoia? Any ideas what could have caused the hubs to blow in the first place? I am thinking poor maintenance from the previous owner.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

As much as I love these Toyota 4x4`s It gets so very expensive when your trying to catch up the neglected maintenance and your paying labor.

Belts can get old and glazed and start to slip.

They can get loose .

I pretty much just put a new set of belts on and be done when I get a new one.

With no load on the engine belts most often won`t squeal.

AC belt on a compressor clutch that is seized ??

One of the items driven by the belts can be causing more of a load then normal bearing about to fail.

No friends that could help and teach you to do these things??

PlayAwhile

I can definitely do the belts myself. My truck has no A/C so there's 1 less complication. But I'm more worried about what the heck else could be wrong? Could it be clutch related despite having a new one? How is a good way to troubleshoot the different elements of the clutch the next time it squeals?

I'm not too afraid to roll up my sleeves on some of this, but the bearings looked tricky since I don't have a press. Honestly I don't trust a garage to troubleshoot a problem for me, the only reason it's going now is so they can lift it and tell me if the front wheels are getting power when they shouldn't.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If it is a clutch throw out bearing, you may as well do the clutch while in there. A normal clutch job is about $600-$750 around here depending what and who does it. I would check everything else first.

I have had the power steering pulley bearing to squeal. It is an easy fix. I just use a vise and a socket as I dont have a press as well.


Youtube video...
My Power Steering Pulley is a little noisey so thought I would show how to replace the bearing. I used PN# 204-FF.



Then I removed the nut and the pulley. On the backside there is a wire clip that holds the bearing to the pulley. Remove it,
then I used a 3/4 inch socket and drove it out over a vice.

I put a little oil in side the pulley and used the vice and slowly worked it back in most of the way. Once it is flush with
the pulley I used another socket to finish getting it all the way in so as the wire clip would seat.



Here it is all cleaned and painted. The bearing was $22. Toyota wants to sell the whole assembly. I was unable to
find just the pulley. Hope this helps someone.

shadowbirdie

I don't have a pic as it's now all back together, the subject being the two pressed tin bearing covers front and rear over the retaining clip.
I found the rear cover deliberately notch cut with tin snips from appearance, would this have been done for some kind of drainage issue?
That's all I can come up with
thx J

RJR

PlayAwhile, here are a few questions to get a bit more methodical in the troubleshooting and problem description to help narrow this down.
- Does the truck have to be moving for the squeal to occur?
- How does the squeal change in pitch or character as engine rpm changes? As vehicle speed changes?
- Does it squeal if you are coasting in neutral?
- Does it occur in 2wd or 4wd, or both?

As far as checking the front end, you can find out most of what you need to know by safely jacking up and supporting the front end with the wheels off the ground, engine off, ebrake set, transmission in gear. These instructions are for a truck without ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect), which I assume is the case with yours since you have manual hubs.
- With the manual hubs unlocked, the wheels should rotate freely and quietly, and the CV shafts should not turn.
- With the hubs locked and the vehicle in 4wd, rotating one wheel should cause the other one to turn in the opposite direction. Again, the movement should be quiet and smooth, free of clicks, grinding, hesitation, etc. If you have a friend hold one wheel, you should not be able to turn the other one.
- With the hubs locked and the vehicle in 2wd, have a friend hold one wheel still, and turn the other one. The front drive shaft should rotate smoothly back to the transfer case, but you will feel the extra drag of the drive shaft, ring, and pinion.

If all this checks out, your front end is likely fine.