chiggin

I am trying to replace the front brake pads on my 1994 Toyota Pickup. My first problem was getting the calipers off due to rust. I was finally able to get them off with a little PB Blaster and banging on the wrench with a hammer. Now, I cannot get the cylinder in either caliper re-compressed. I was able to get the driver side caliper compressed some, but not enough to get it back on. It took A LOT of effort to turn the c-clamp I was using to compress the cylinder as much as I did, and I cannot compress it any further. In fact, I will have to get a new clamp since I broke the one I was using while trying to compress the cylinder. I don''t remember compressing the calipers ever being this hard on any other vehicle. Is there a trick to Toyota calipers that I am unaware of? I really hope that the calipers are not done for. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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just a 22re

i taqke it your in the salt belt lol well mine were easy as pie they should just go back in and from the sounds of it you might have a stuck caliper

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my name is ALLAN

yeah its a 22re 5-speed 4wd 1987 4runner with a cam, snorkel, welded rear


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space-junk

the calipers tend to get sticky with rust and dirt and such, so you either need to rebuild them or replace them...
do a search to find info on how to rebuild them...

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SR5

x2 i had the same proble when i did mine, if you take i to shucks, give them your old core and they will give you a new about $50 per side

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1995 SR5 V6 4Runner

SR5 Profile

SR5

also not all shucks have them in stock, so you got to call around

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1995 SR5 V6 4Runner

SR5 Profile

scope103

While it sure sounds like a stuck caliper, before you trade them in you might disconnect them from the brake line and then try to push the caliper in. I had a different make truck where the flex-line clogged inside; you couldn't push the caliper in because the fluid had nowhere to go.

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1994 6cyl 4wd XCab -- all stock

Marc

Make sure the cover is off the master cylinder.

Also, rent or borrow a proper caliper compression tool.

It works way better than a c-clamp. I think cause it presses evenly.

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'91 4Runner SR5 V6 4X4 Auto, A/C, 4.56, 31x10.5x15 Nokian Vatiiva Tires, Taurus fan (removed)
'90 4Runner SR5 V6 4X4 Auto, A/C, 4.56
V6 power with V8 fuel mileage
I've used Fram oil filters and dino oil in all my stuff for 30 years and never had trouble
I bet MOST people who say "swap in a 3.4" have NEVER changed any engine nevermind converting to a different type

abecedarian

If the caliper is fully removed from the vehicle, lines and all, and the pistons will not compress rather easily- should realistically only take a few pounds of pressure to do get the caliper piston moving, your choices are to either rebuild or replace the caliper.
Personally, I'd rather replace the caliper.
New/rebuilt calipers come with warrantees... rebuild kits do not.

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ddwyer

My $0.02:

I've done this job a few times. Aftermarket (rebuilt) calipers are so cheap that I just replace them. At about $30 apiece, I can't justify spending the time it takes to rebuild them (BTW,I did rebuild them the first time).

chiggin

After a little closer examination, I figured out how to get the cylinder to compress. Originally, I was putting the old brake pad against the cylinder and compressing the c-clamp against that to help distribute the pressure a little more evenly. Right before I started taking the caliper off to replace it, I tried eliminating the use of the brake pad and put the end of the c-clamp down into the cylinder. It compressed with ease. I guess the pad was pushing against something that would not let it go anywhere. I really wish I had figured this out before I put so much effort in, but I am glad I got it. Thanks for the input from everyone.

abecedarian

if it gave you resistance with the pad in place... is it going to release from the rotor when you let off the pedal?

...just a thought: it may be 'slow' to compress but you should be able to push the piston in with your fingers. If you need a c-clamp to compress it, I'd still contemplate replacing them.

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