matt1183

Read a lot on the site so I just decided to go for it. I took everything off to include valve covers because they were leaking and put in a new knock sensor, harness, pigtail and wire to the ECM. Had to replace a few fuel injectors and there connectors because they were bad. Putting the timing belt back on was a SOB but I got tensioner to bolt back onto the intake. So with all the new parts I figured this truck would run great well it doesn't even run now! Every now and again it will act like its about to kick over but it doesn't. I put in plugs and wires and it has spark and gas right now. I am thinking maybe I moved the gear sprocket on the left side of the motor trying to put the belt back on and screwed with the timing somehow? I don't know. Anyone else ever had a problem like this. If I posted a video would it help people with diagnosing the problem? Any suggestions help.

scope103

This part of the job shouldn't be too hard, so I suspect you weren't following the manual. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf Since you have fuel and spark (always good to check for them first), I suspect you're not getting them at the right time.

I'd go through the procedure just far enough to remove the upper timing cover. Turn the crank to TDC and see if both cams are pointing up. (No? You might have to turn the crank one more turn, as the crank turns twice per cam rotation) If they are, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing at #1 (actually, 10° past).

matt1183

You are exactly right I did not pay attention to the Manuel about the TDC. I couldn't get the left side gear to stay at TDC but the right side was and now I am guessing that it had something to main crank not being on 0. Thanks for your reply..

Matt

matt1183

Last night I took off the timing cover and belt tensioner and set my flywheel to 0 and aligned both cranks up with the timing arrows/marks. Put it all back together and it wouldn't start unless I advanced my distributor almost all the way. Then it would run rough but it ran. If I gave it gas it would rev up fine but when I let off it would surge and dies. I am guessing I am off a tooth somewhere. Any help is appreciated. And I'll gladly leave give you my number if you just want to talk about it.

Matt

scope103

Why do I think you're trying to set your timing "by ear"? A timing light costs $20. http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html Setting the timing wrong can blow a hole in a piston. Your choice.

And if you had that timing light, you wouldn't have to guess.

13 teeth on the distributor gear, so if you're off one tooth that's about 28°. Enough to make it run, but like crap. (Don't feel too bad about installing it wrong; it's easy to do.)

28° is enough to actually see with the distributor cap off, but now that you've already tried to do it the hard way, you'll just use your brand new timing light and know for sure.

matt1183

See the below post, I thought this was good

matt1183

Here are the marks lined up with the flywheel on 0. Bought a nice digital timing light last night but haven't had time to play with it. I wish my belt still had the marks on it but it doesn't.

matt1183

Here's another one of the marks

Shady Cadence

Passenger side cam looks a tooth off, could be illusion. Did you have the distributor out?

matt1183

I did not have the distributor out when I set it. I had to put a wrench on that cam and put it against a pulley to hold it in place because it keep wanting to roll over.

matt1183

Here in a few hours I am probably going to take the tensioner back off and try to set the belt again but at this point I feel I should just go buy the kit and remove the water pump and replace the belt so I wont have to deal with this again for some time.

Shady Cadence

That's never a bad idea.

scope103

Me too (with the same "illusion" qualification.)

This isn't that hard; look at it straight on. It is either correct or off by at least one whole tooth; you can't be off by 3/4 of a tooth.

Don't worry about that; hold it with the wrench so that the crank is at TDC and check at least one of the cams. If you need to THEN let go of the wrench to look straight on the other, just make sure both cams are "tilted" about the same amount.

Don't forget that cam timing (what you're doing now) and ignition timing are two different (related) things.

Shady Cadence

Looking at your picture on a larger screen, your driver's side cam is one tooth late, your passenger's side is one tooth early.

matt1183

Thanks for the reply! I took the belt off today and realigned everything and actually got the truck running good. Bought a nice digital timing light and set the timing at 12 degrees. Still have my code 52 and now I have a code 26 but I fixed a lot of other issues with it.