muddmadness

Totally frustrated and losing hours at work because this is my only vehicle at this point. Don't know what else to do about it. I have replaced the throw out bearing and inspected the pressure plate replaced the master and slave twice. I have no leaks repaired a pedal issue and adjusted out the rod minus a few threads and no matter what I do it still won't go into gear when the truck is running, I really need some help if anyone has an idea what it could be I sure need to hear it. I hear that it might have something to do with the neutral safety switch but I am under the impression that it wouldn't be because of the clutch start switch in the 89 runner, could it be causing the problem?

Odin

Pedal issue.. I take it you're talking about this?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/

I found that last night. I got my truck a few weeks ago and I need to check that out.
I have no noises but reverse is not too cooperative. The friction zone seems to be pretty far up there.

rocketbear

Ive found . On some systems open bleed port and walk away for awhile let gravity work....also actually using any kind sucker can pull fluid from reservoir. ...turkey baster vacuum pump ect..

muddmadness

Yes when my throw out bearing went kaput the pedal got really hard all of a sudden and I heard a loud pop completely scale over truck in panic not knowing what the issue was until I started having shifting issues I later found that the horse shoe shaped bracket under the dash, that the main clutch pedal bracket bolts into... The center snapped out it leaving the entire pedal bracket assembly dangling just enough to cause an issue. It was about 17-20 degrees outside that day of course and no welder within 20 miles of my location. It was a fun day to say the least.

muddmadness

I thought about that but what about an empty master won't that let air back in the line

Odin

You should also be able to also use a syringe with catheter tip.

muddmadness

I have a mighty vacant bleeder but it doesn't seem to make a difference

muddmadness

I will try the gravity method it can't hurt nothing else seems to be working

wavekayaker

I had a similar issue on a MR2. I found a bent clutch fork to be my problem. Good luck!

muddmadness

Mine is not bent but you have a valid point about the fork. It would be an issue if it was and right now I wish it was. Thank you for your feedback it's still good to hear all of the possibles

nv4runner

This came up one day when I was on youtube. It might solve your problem.

muddmadness

Mine is adjusted out as far as it will go without coming apart, but thank you for the link I am at this point grateful for any all feed back I can get. I attempted to reverse bleed today and that didn't work out but I will try again in a few days to bleed and try to figure it out.

Slowey23

is the system bled properly? this is assuming you dont have a clutch that works. I just replaced my master cylinder and it was a bitch to bleed, had to remove the master again to fill with fluid and get all air out then block holes off and refit with out spilling any fluid, I did loose some but retained enough to get the normal pedal pump bleeding process to work, I couldnt get mine to reverse bleed or suck, gravity didnt help either, it is very easy for the master to get air caught that you wont be able to get out.

nv4runner

I would agree that bench bleeding is very important. If it is already adjusted out all the way then something is definitely wrong. Have you adjusted your pedal height and play to factory spec? If you can't get within spec then something is bent or broken.

mct75

My clutch "felt" fine but engaged right at the bottom inch of travel, making it hard to shift. I pumped it for 5 solid minutes and it has been better ever since. It's supposed to self-adjust but maybe it needed some help.

muddmadness

Slowy I have I think this issue Is it possible after all the bleeding I have done that it would still have trapped air? Removing and bench bleeding is the only thing I have not tried. I will give it a try and report back. Thank you.

muddmadness

Mct that sounds like a pedal issue but I will double check for flex in the bracket.

muddmadness

Nope bench bleed didn't do it either, it's like the bore on the master just isn't long enough or big enough to deliver the proper fluid pressure to the slave. The rod is only moving about a 1/4 of an inch instead of the 3/4 to one inch it needs to. And then when I was bleeding it for the thousands time it was pushing out milky white and brown fluid. I looked for leaks, couldn't find any everything is dry and clean. Pedal is adjusted to a Nat's ass, and feels great but won't harden up... Beats me, ready to take it to a tranny shop and let them deal with it. Truck is a repeat offender with this issue and I am close to losing my job over it. Damn it...

osv

colored fluid sounds like m/c failure, or old fluid somewhere in the line.

have you tried replacing the clutch hydraulic hose yet... old hoses can swell up inside, but typically that means that they don't release the pressure when you let off... you should still be able to see the rod going making contact with the clutch arm, when the pedal is pushed in, even with a hose that's rotted inside.

i never bench bleed anything.

muddmadness

There is only one section of hose that is rubber and its just before the slave. I was told that it's called a bleed over. It's in an "S" formation and is in between the metal line going along the firewall and the metal line going to the slave. Could that be causing the problem? I also want to put out there that once I fixed the springs on the truck and leveled the truck out it started behaving badly, like it gravity working in it's favor.