streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Hello all you toyota wise people

I wast sure where to post this but here it goes anyway:

I have an 87 truck, extra cab, 5-speed, 22r, 280,000 miles and am having frustrating transmission problems. This is about the 6th or 7th time i have had to bring it down. The PROBLEM you ask? It always gets STUCK!! Twice in my own driveway and once in a gas station a mile from my home (the other times it was stuck was when my brother drove it). The last time it was jammed which was about a month ago wasn't so bad because it was stuck in 4th gear and i could still drive home like that. I drove around like that for about a week until i smelled smoke: the clutch maybe?? So i took it down yesterday got it unstuck an am afraid to put it together just to get stuck again. I also noticed something that to me didn't seem right: two different gears (4th and 5th i think) could engage at the same time. I thought maybe it was missing a snap ring somewhere but didn't find anything in the manual. Also about a year or more before that i replaced a gear and syncronizers from toyota because 4th was making a grinding noise.

I attached some pictures of it, the gears, and forks, So if anyone has been down this road please help as i am trying to get her done before i head back to high school in september, and if that wasn't enough i have a horrible timing chain cover leak( about a quart of oil a week).

bugs1961

Sounds like a shift fork or hub sleeve that has a lot of wear and play, allowing the sleeve to stay between the two gear hub splines. I'd change the worn parts before something breaks (like a gear) and it gets more expensive. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input bugs1961 but after making some calls to my nearest toyota i figured it might be cheaper to find a used trans. I opted to put it back together as is, since school was fast approaching and managed to do it just in time( I hate riding the bus). This is the second week of school and so far i have had no problems. I just take my time and carefully shift the gears. I think it will hold till i find a good used one.
As for the timing cover, it was also done before school. I used all new fel-pro gaskets from autozone( $8 kit)with permatex gasket sealer and siliconed the top to the head gasket. ZERO-leaks.
While i was there i repainted the timing cover blue, touched up the oil and water pump, black pulleys, and red a/c bracket. Looks cool/Nice n clean.
I took pictures and will be posting those later.

Ps: When i was putting the oil pump back i noticed an arrow on each of the two gears and couldnt find anything about it in the manual. Does it matter which way they go? I put them facing each other.

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

As promised here are the pics. I also posted new ones in my albums.

toyota junkie

im pretty sure it doesnt matter. and i would save for a good used trani in the time being even a rebuilt 1 would last forever and its only a couple hundred more.

abecedarian

and you have good bushings on the shift lever?

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats what i was thinking, and i already found one for sale nearby. Hopefully ill be able to go take a look at it and try it since it's still in truck. Truck has only 160k and its a 86, my trucks a 87 so im sure it'll fit.

I dont think theyre good, have never replaced them. The stick feels loose, but it shifts fine. Where can you get the bushings from?

PS: A while back i posted on a syntec oil thread but never got an answer so ill ask now. What synthetic oil and grade for a rebuilt 22r? Has about 2 years or less since rebuild mostly highway miles. I am currently using castrol gtx 20w50 since thats what was in it when i got it. What about trans,transf,& diffs? Thanks

GoldenBeaR6

http://www.marlincrawler.com/catalog/70/parts_upgrades

shifter bushings here

abecedarian

GoldenBeaR6 has pointed you at some good shift bushings.

As for the oil, my philosophy is use the thinnest oil you can get away with without noise on startup. I am currently running 20w50 dino oil in mine because 10w40 (dino or synth) causes rod knock and even 20w50 synth leaks out the front oil seal. So I know I'm getting close to needing some work on the engine but it's been like this since I've had it, have put nearly 30K miles on it, and for the time being, it works. Similarly, I put about 300,000 miles on a VW Scirocco using 20w50 and managed to average about 40 highway mpg (about 30 on the street) with it so the arguments about thinner oil gets better mileage don't always hold true. If I used 5w or 10w, the hydraulic followers chattered for about 30 seconds. So, everyone can argue all they want- hydraulic follower noise means no oil in the lifters and they are getting pounded until oil gets there.

Same thing goes for the transmission and gearsets. Use synth rated according to specs which should be API GL4 for the transmission and GL5 for the differentials. Shouldn't be much need to deviate from the factory weight recommendations if you're not a 'high performance' or otherwise severe use vehicle.

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

So the 2 bushings that i need for my truck would be the white and the blue right?

As for the oil i have not used any other brand or grade in it so i want try something different, probably syntetic. But if i do switch to syntec do i just drain the old oil and replace with new filter and oil or do i need to remove every drop of the old oil? The castrol 20w-50 im using doesn't make any noise but what i have noticed and ignored for the last 2 years is that i makes a rattling noise when i floor it to get up a hill or gain speed.
Sorry for all the questions but i just want to get it right. It is my first truck.