hunter4runner

buy the calipers with parking brakes in them theyre like 90$ a pair at an auto parts stores

tried4x2signN

LC 80 series full floaters have the E brake built in... So it would be cool if one could just rob that rotor, and find a way to make that E brake set-up work...

But I just remembered, you still have to convert it to FF...

But you still do for rear discs, right?

hunter4runner

LC 80 is a hat in rotor e-brake you need to convert axels for that to work

grant526

What about just stealing the rear axle from an 80? Cut of the coil stuff and weld on perches. . . Or convert to coils. . .
You'll get full floating, rear disc's and an e-brake. Not to mention the possibility of finding one already equipped with an e-locker. . .

hunter4runner

except the 80 is offset and in the truck the d-shaft would make love to the gas tank, so either 'remolding' the gas tank or fuel cell

in a taco its a perfect idea and has been done before

toyotanick

first off, your an ahole secondly i am a "stickler for this residual valve because thats what it tells me to do mr guy who has all the danm answers and cant tell me what year the master cylinder comes off of. it has all of the v6 hardware, master cylinder, booster, everything.

another thing i said was i do not want to put more cuts in the brake line, more possibility of failure. i have no problem finding the residual valve.

toyotanick

i have been told that i have the master cylinder that is slightly smaller. and that this master cylinder would come off of a vehicle that has discs all the way around hints the extra pressure...

drew303

I dont know what a 2lb residual valve is? What does that mean?

I have a 1" bore LC master cylinder, our toys came with 7/8" bore masters (anything not a V6). I think mine was called a Landcruiser Master but i dont know whats different between the V6 masters and ones on the Landcruisers, they're both 1" bores.

drew303

People have used Cadillac rear calipers with the cable actuated e-brake. I never read into it much but just kept reading over n over that it was a pain to make the parking brake work right.

I liked the idea of having no more cables down on the axle. Mine always got gunked up with debri on the trails and in the winter any kind of mud that accumilated on the cables meant they always froze. It was a pain in the ass to break the drums free in the morning in sub-freezing weather.

Thats one advantage to a T-case brake. The only thing I've ever used the T-case brake for really is for parking. Just so the truck doesnt roll when you start it up, or atleast be able to get out of the truck when it's running for whatever reasons.

I'll probably get another cable this month, gettn tired of having to kill the motor everytime i get out

awareness

My drum setup in the rear is totally shot and I'm also waiting to replace both seals and bearings in my rear axle. I've been intending to take this opportunity to do a disc conversion rather than replace the drum setup.

I was eyeing the old Downey kit that LC Engineering sells, they have just one left with an e-brake setup. But they want about $600 or so for it. I spoke on the phone with a guy at LCE and asked what it was about their kit that made the e-brake anymore functional than a set up calipers one might get from a yard given that they're both based on a GM rear end.

He told me it all had to do with the angle of the cable and basically, from what I gathered, that their setup wasn't all that different from a junkyard setup beyond the cables they provided with the kit.

Still think it's a bit pricey considering.

tried4x2signN

1st off, that's not even what I'm talking about...

2nd off, any time you can say "you are", "You're" is the proper contraction...

And 3rd, I'm sorry. But I do know you've got some Frankenstein truck that had a 350 in it then went to 3.0... So god, you and your father only knows what it was post 350. So you might want to put stuff like that in your sig so it cuts down on the confusion of ppl assuming what truck you have...


Next you'll be wanting to put a 383 in it

grant526

Oh ya, I forgot they are offset. I do remember noticing that in the past.

toyotanick

im guesing you missed the part where its a completely different frame. and the truck was not cut on at all to do the 350. oh and how about not assuming you know what you are talking about and just be quiet. you have no idea what a residual valve is therefore you have no placing chiming into this post. the toyota 1inch bore mastercylinder does not seam to have the residual built in so that would mean that it would be absolutely pointless to do that swap. there was a very valid reason that i was and probably still am going with the trail gear master cylinder. anymore useless info you would like to chime in with?

GenXr

Well there went my idea of swapping an FJ80 axle under the truck!!

Anyhoo, I've been thing a lot about how to do rear discs and keep a parking brake. I have t-case mounted e-brake on my samurai and hate it.

I have in my driveway a rear axle from a 93 pathfinder with rear discs. it even has a tone ring for ABS . The 4 link brackets would have to be cut off and perches welded on but I think it would work. You retain a drop out style third member (larger than a Ford 9"), it can be regeared to 4.88 to match the toyota front R&P...and any auto parts store will have parts for it. The only down side is fewer locker options (lockright, ARB) and most rear disc pathys come with an LSD carrier. (the LSD can be stuffed with more clutch discs to work like a spool). You would have to swap in an open carrier to run a lockright...not hard to find though. The H233B axle was popular and easy to find. OH, the axle is 31 splined.

Is this a dumb idea?

drew303

so i did some reading on residual valves and they're only designed to be used with drum brakes not disc brakes.

Heres an example,
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/residvalve.php

so why do you want a Master with these if you're going disc?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/fullfloater/

You get rear discs w/ built in cable e-brakes with the Supra calipers.

toyotanick

BECAUSE THAT IS WHAT TRAIL GEAR TELLS ME TO DO!!! , how do yall not get this?! i have the kit on my truck and the truck stops well but has a little bit of a delay before it starts to stop. which would be eliminated with the residual.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

From what I have heard from Brian at Front Range, a residual valve can be required for a number of reasons.

One is if the brake m/c is lower than the calipers, like on a hot rod or buggy with a low, floor mounted brake master (probably not the case with the stock Toyota m/c location).

Another one is with rear disc rotors that are installed on a semi-floating axle. In that setup, there will be some wobble/run-out in the rotor because it is hanging off the end of the axle shaft, several inches outboard of the axle bearing. The residual valve keeps the pads from pushing too far away from the rotor as the rotor moves around as it turns. With a full floating axle (like in front or on a f/f rear conversion), the rotors are mounted right on the spindle and have negligible run-out and thus no need to do anything with a residual valve.

tried4x2signN

WELL THEN GET TRAIL GEAR TO TELL YOU WHAT BORE CAME WITH 2lb A RESIDUAL VALVE?


B/c I'm pretty sure none of us here know...

I only know the ones that came with a 1lb, and 3lb... So I'm no help there

toyotanick

i already know where to get it.