gandude

The ARB is the best. When you try one, you won't go back. It's perfect for everyday driving and perfect for serious wheeling.


The price for this is patience during the install, especially the copper tube. Double check everything!


Tip; The copper tube bends easier when warm. If cold, it's hard on your fingers and the tube. Leave it in the sun. (no torch).

Mr. No SPAM

The Auto Lockers are really for trail rigs, and not for around town, IMHO. They'll tear up expensive tires and be a PITA to move around tight spaces, like parking lots.

The air locker is the way to go, or maybe a later Toyota e-locker axle upgrade. Full open differential for the road or locked when you need it - the best of both worlds.

Props to ZUK for helping out with Part 2 of my diff rebuild project!

mountainbrew

Thanks everyone for the advice!!! I ended up picking up the rear diff that same day from the 4x4 place. When I was checking out, I asked them why they had to set the backlash/preload to do a collar install. He consulted with the manager and magically most of my labor cost went away. Awesome! Note: it wasn't 4 Wheel Parts, I know I mentioned them earlier but they were booked, didn't want it to look like I threw them under the bus. I wasn't happy with the line being screwed up. I bitched, I smashed knuckles, I even smacked myself in the forehead with my 30" breaker bar (the stream of expletives hat followed that one was epic). I wasn't happy with TG, but sh;$ happens. At the end of the day, this happened... So either way, I'm happy. Plus I had the good fortune to find this bumper on Craigslist the next day for an awesome price, so I'll pretend I broke even.

I do use this as my daily so having the option of a fully open diff was worth the extra $. Most important thing about the install with the copper line in being in a position of good leverage on the third. You need to be able to "maneuver" the copper line underneath the top of the axle housing...you basically have to angle the entire third so that the pinion flange is higher, and the end going into the housing is lower. This allows the copper line to slip under the gasket surface. But with all that said, I did that the first time too and it still became disconnected. Either way, I'm excited to get the winch mounted and go somewhere to get stuck!! Next up...dual tranfer cases.

Ps. Does anyone in colorado need a set of stock 4.11 front and rear diffs for a non-abs 86 4cyl IFS? Not much use for em here.

Mr. No SPAM

Right On!

Mine sounded exactly like that when I performed the same test with the rear wheels off the ground - the same "CLUNK" as the locker engaged.

Now you can go tear it up!

Dig the bumper, too.

bswarm

Is that the bumper you were looking for lamp terminals in another thread? Nice!

mountainbrew

Yep! That's the same one. That's why I have the old turn signals Velcro-ed to the top of the bumper in true half assed fashion
I'll throw some more pictures up shortly. I'm gonna have a friend fab some center bars to match the lines on the headlights and grill.

mountainbrew

Off topic I know but just in case anyone wanted to see the bumper. I really like it (obviously ignore the stupid extra lights on the top, I still havent wired up my turns), I wish the wrap around was a little more complete, but it looks alright especially after I removed the corner brackets from the old bumper that hung down for nothing. It also bolted on pretty easily. Two bolts tie into the holes that my tow hook/d ring was in, and then I had my buddy weld some angle iron onto the frame to line up to the other bolt on the bumper. Sure, it looks like he welded it with his feet, but I feel like it will be plenty strong to mount the winch on! I'm also gonna have him bend some DOM tubing and weld me on some grill/headlight guards.