edeslaur

My TPS recently died (87 22rte, AT). I had a TPS code and it tested bad.

It was surging on acceleration.

I replaced it with a CarQuest part, using 4Crawler's excellent instructions, including using the 0.85mm feeler gauge. I also reset the ECU.

Following this procedure puts it really, really close to the end of its adjustment slots, which is different than where the original was (it had about 3/4 adjustment one way, 1/4 the other).

After that adjustment, it idles well and the AT started shifting correctly again. Unfortunately under very light throttle, it surges. Light throttle would be the same as cruising at 55mph.

I pulled the bottom screw to make on-road adjustment easier, and found that if I twisted the TPS back to about where the original one was set the light throttle surge disappeared. Shifting is still OK. But it's WAAY different than 0.85MM (not measured, but it's bigger).

Any suggestions why this would be and where the problem is?

4x4climber

I would assume it is because it is a carquest TPS...

edeslaur

I thought about that, but it tests good, and I am able to get it to adjust per instructions.

thook

Possibly what he meant is that components can vary in manufacturer tolerances. 4crawler evens mentions that on his webpage. So, what you have is a difference at the point where the ECU will read the IDL contact. No big deal. If it works, it works.

sb5walker

The important setting regarding the position of the TPS is that IDL grounds to E2 (continuity) when the throttle is closed (at rest - idle position) and does not ground to E2 when throttle is open. That is necessary for there to be no surging, to set timing, to have the right mixture at idle, etc. So check that. If you don't have continuity when throttle closed, and lose that continuity when throttle is cracked open, then the TPS is not adjusted correctly. Suggest trying the procedure outlined in the fsm; the only problem being that you may not be able to get a feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and throttle without removing the throttle body. Perhaps a valve tappet type gauge (the end of the strips are bent) would work better. I have the 3vze which has this issue; not sure about the 22re.

If the position of the TPS is way off when you have IDL set right, then it's possible you have the wrong TPS for the application or that the brand TPS you have is faulty garbage.

The position of the little dog ears on the inside of the tps did change at some point around 87 to 89 (depending on the engine), so check that the replacement TPS has the tabs in the same position as the original, and not 90 degrees off.

Denso is the OEM brand and would probably be the best bet. Decent price from 1sttoyotaparts.com. Get updated part number from toyotapartszone.com because you'll probably need the "replaced by" part number to find it on the 1sttoyotaparts site. If your original TPS part # is 89452-28030 then the new part # is 89452-20050

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsIndex=14

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf

SlightlyWhat

I replaced my throttle body because my truck kept dying when it rolled to a stop. Now it's fine, some what. I used the old TPS and I put it on the way the manual says to. I can't test it but I don't think I need to since it was fine before. Anyways, it's a 93 pickup 2wd and this morning when I was driving it I couldn't get it to go past 30mph because the pedal was giving me resistance. I mashed the peddle a little more and it gave in some but not all the way. Enough to where I could drive on the FW though. Any ideas what the issue could be? It also only does this while in gear with the tps connected.