YODAIII

I recently read that if you bridge TE1 to E1 and you can hear the idle change then the TPS is set correctly. Anyone out there know if this is an accurate method of testing. Seems kind of simple to me. Only reason I ask is because I took it off while cleaning the throttle body and put it back on without setting it or marking. Whoops!

diablo

Yea thats true, you should hear a drop in idle. But to set it you need a ohm meter and feeler gauge.

peckinpah

I'm not too sure about that. I think if you hear the idle drop when you bridge those two points, that only means the TPS is connected and works, but not necessarily that it's adjusted correctly.

Though I could be wrong on this.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

That would say the TPS is at least close, all it is saying is that the TPS IDL contact is closed at idle:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

YODAIII

This question is for 4CRAWLER. Do you think that "close" is good enough or could I tell a difference in performance if I took the throttle body off and adjusted it. What does that sensor see? Is it the angle of the throttle plate? I've been a lurker on this site for a couple of months now and I know you guys have the YODA'S dialed in!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Read all about it:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment

The IDLe adjustment is just one aspect of the TPS and it Senses the Throttle Position (i.e. Throttle Position Sensor). If the IDLe setting is a little off, probably no big deal. Kind of like the way drag racers stage, if you stage deep, you can get a faster reaction time (or the throttle will read OPEN to the ECU faster when you hit the gas) or a shallow stage gives you a better ET (makes the TPS less touchy to minor variations in the throttle closed position).

YODAIII

Hey 4CRAWLER, if it's a little off could that cause pinging?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Doubt it, easy test, unplug it and drive. Will throw a code but should run.

It takes only a few minutes to test the TPS and if you lack a meter, Harbor Freight has them on sale for under $5:
- http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html

Toymind

4Crawler: My DMM reads in the meg ohm region when following the adjustment procedure.
When setting the TPS the best I can get is 2.67meg on my fluke meter???
I can adjust it (tps) to go from "0" infinite to 2.67meg ohms, but it will not read in the "k" region regardless!!! What gives? Replace TPS?
Truck seems to idle OK and does not surge however the idle seems a bit rough and and is unstable, meaning it will not stay at 900rpms when set (where I like it to idle) Oh yeah this is on a 92 22re.
Things Ive done: new dist. cap, rotor, plugs (NGK) plugs all had good color, removed and cleaned IACV, cleaned TB, and plenum (sea foam), checked for vac. leaks (propane) found none, replace O-ring on idle screw at TB, replaced fuel filter.
The problem although minor is a pain in the well you know, any advice?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Main reason O do not like auto-ranging meters. Sure they give you a reading without messing with settings, but is it the right reading? Short of another meter, best option is to hit up Radio Shack or similar parts store, and buy a few resistors, like 1K and 10K or something and then practice measuring them. At least with a known resistance, you should at least know what the reading should be (eliminating the unknown TPS resistance):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...oUseAnOhmMeter

I just got a new meter, a clamp on DC amp meter, but I did not see it was all auto-ranging until after I bought it. I'm still practicing with it after a few months until I get the confidence to get good readings with it. Not helping is that the manual has obviously been translated from some eastern European language and it is pretty minimal. I found with the DC current reading, you need to do a very specific sequence of steps to get a valid reading. If you miss a step, you'll get "a reading", but it is likely not correct.

jpoe

An incorrect TPS sensor (there are 2 for 89's) will allow you to retard the idle to set the timing and then surge violently on a test drive (ask me how I know). You need to have the correct reading from a smultimeter to set the TPS correctly. The 4crawler write up is dead on accurate.

Toymind

4Crawler:
Sorry my fault my meter does not read "0" it reads "open" or infinity that is what I meant by 0 ill be more carefull next time.
As far as it reading ohms correctly it will pick up all resistors in the K-ohm range and read that particular rating regarding its color code (I checked the meter with a couple of old resistors I had laying on my work bench) plus this is not the only meter I have and they both read the same..
I know and understand electronics, as I am an M.E. thats what bugs me about this TPS, I was just curious if maybe you have had any experience with TPS readings in the meg ohms region and still have a functioning TPS as I have.
My meter will read OPEN or Infinity when the meter is turned one way off of the resistive strip, but it will not measure in K ohms when when it sees the strip again when turning back.
Im thinking it may have crudded up internal contacts in the sensor itself, that is why im getting a funky reading if you will and needs replacing..
Typical of an engineer to analyze the hell out of all things mechanical and otherwise.. :o