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towing a load

Old 03-17-2009, 04:36 AM
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towing a load

I have learned that I'll need to cross the rockies while towing a load.
I am wondering whether my 2nd gen 3vze is up to the task. If I decide to try, what should I check/change beforehand to ensure or maximize the chances of smooth runnings? (not the Jamaican bobsled team sliding down)
the image I am mentally creating is the confident 3vze proudly making it over!
Old 03-17-2009, 05:08 AM
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change your oil, all your filters

check your power steering fluid, transmission fluid, brake fluid, brake pads and shoes

also, make sure you have extra oil and brake fluid, at least.
Old 03-17-2009, 05:55 AM
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Tow a legal load for your vehicle and you should be fine.

Just remember that being overloaded is illegal and should you get in an accident you could face criminal charges and your insurance could not cover the damage. Seen it happen before.

Be safe!

Old 03-17-2009, 06:26 AM
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I drove through the Wasatch in my 3vze and I swear there were times with the accelerator floored, going up the steep grades where i could have opened the door, jumped out, and ran beside my runnner.
Old 03-17-2009, 07:09 AM
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i go up a 10% grade every day in my 22re

the key to making it up is momentum... go faster at the bottom and floor it up the hill
Old 03-17-2009, 08:03 AM
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invest in a transmission cooler...my .02
Old 03-17-2009, 08:30 AM
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use premium fuel!
Old 03-17-2009, 09:11 AM
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x2 on checking all fluids and bringing extra, drive in the slow lane.
Old 03-17-2009, 09:31 AM
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Take your time, don't hold yourself to such a tight schedule that you have to push it Really hard to make it.
Bring some extra food and drinks, so if something does happen you can eat first and not work on the truck while starving.

Check the condition of the radiator, coolant, belts, and hoses, in addition to those listed above. and either premix, or buy some premixed coolant to bring with in the case of an over heat, so you do not have to search for water in the middle of nowhere to top off the radiator.
Old 03-17-2009, 09:34 AM
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Here's a silly question.

How much does the trailer with load weigh?

Also, ignore the transmission cooler and premium fuel replies.
Old 03-17-2009, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc
Here's a silly question.

How much does the trailer with load weigh?

Also, ignore the transmission cooler and premium fuel replies.
The trailer weight question is good, and the tranny cooler comment is good. Can't really use a tranny cooler with a manual! But make sure you have some good oil in it because it is going to get hot! I have towed a 3000 pound boat with my truck, just around in the city and you could feel the heat in the stick shift. One time, I was towing the boat and had to stop at the bottom of a hill. It was a long straight hill, so i put it in 4lo and started in second gear. I had no momentum so i used 4lo to split the power and I used second through fourth in low range to keep the motor in the power band.

Don't be afraid to wind it up a bit either. higher rpm motors ya know....

Good luck

Last edited by Alex 400; 03-17-2009 at 10:57 AM.
Old 03-17-2009, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc
Also, ignore the transmission cooler and premium fuel replies.
Old 03-17-2009, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Originally Posted by Marc
Also, ignore the transmission cooler and premium fuel replies.
Agreed... well except for the trans cooler- don't have that option with a manual trans without drilling and tapping the case and providing a pump to circulate the fluid.

As for the premium fuel- if the engine does start to run warmer than normal, the better fuel will resist detonation better than low-grade and prevent the knock sensor (if equipped) from kicking in and retarding the timing.

...still waiting for 411 on the trailer weight....
...and I would use a trailer with brakes (hydraulic / surge) at the very least.
Old 03-17-2009, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
As for the premium fuel- if the engine does start to run warmer than normal, the better fuel will resist detonation better than low-grade and prevent the knock sensor (if equipped) from kicking in and retarding the timing.
When explained that way - I'd say, ignore my comment.
Old 03-17-2009, 03:54 PM
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What does your trailer weigh?

The comment to run Premium Grade Gas IS a good idea in this instance. Chevron 91 !!!

When I had 3000 pounds in my truck a few Summers ago helping a buddy with some reno's I was pinging a bit in 3rd gear going up a reasonable hill near his house. Supreme would have reduced or eliminated this.

Make sure your cooling system is in top shape and your coolant is on the newer side.

Making sure all the fluids are in top shape is a good one too. If you have Synthetic fluids (I recommend Amsoil) throughout your drive train and in your engine you should be good to go. With all your mods you should probably be ok I would think as well. Also, don't be afraid to just slow down on the bigger grades and get in the right lane. Like drop down to 3rd gear which is actually a pretty good all around torque gear, and put your truck at about 3000-3400 RPM's and hold that until you reach the crest. Yeah you won't be going super fast but it'll be easier on the truck.

Last edited by CoedNaked; 03-17-2009 at 03:57 PM.
Old 03-17-2009, 04:10 PM
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I would make sure that you have good tread on your tires, wind shield washer fluid... and no leaking break cylinders... just my 2cents")
Good Luck and drive safely!!
Old 03-18-2009, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by buckz6319
I would make sure that you have good tread on your tires

Good one, don't forget to check the spare tire either. Also after adding the load you may need to increase the pressure in the tires to compensate for the load, just don't exceed the tire manufactures limit molded to the side wall.
Old 03-18-2009, 09:31 AM
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With towing, the big issue is heat - towing will cause the motor to run hot. I see you have headers, and that is a big big help. Heat will still be a concern, though.

Verify your EGR system is working well. That is key to keeping combustion temps down. With a hot motor at 2500 rpm, there should be good vacuum going to the top of the egr valve - you can pull the hose off and check it with your finger. Either pull the valve off to verify that it moves freely, or just check that at 2500 rpm the egr pipe that goes from the valve into the plenum is hot (don't burn yourself!)

Does your motor have the oil cooler? I don't know how effective it is, but if you don't have one, you might consider scrounging one from a junkyard. You need to change the water pump to get one with a hose fitting.

Make sure your thermostat is in good shape and is the factory specified 180 deg.

I'd spring for some fully synthetic oil, not quasi-synthetic like Syntec. Personally I avoid Mobil 1 like the plague since the only time I used it, my pan fipg sprung a leak. Amsoil and Red Line are both excellent.

Likewise, if you haven't changed the gear oil in a while, this would be a good time. Red Line's MT90 or Amsoil's MTG are great for the tranny; Amsoil's Severe Gear 75W90 is great in the transfer. And whatever you prefer in those truetracs.

Improve the heat carrying ability of your coolant by using 60 percent distilled water and 40 percent coolant. That will give significantly better heat transfer and will still give freezing protection down to -20.

Even more heat transfer can come from using a wetting agent, but if you are using toyota red coolant, absolutely don't use Red Line's Water Wetter as it will react with the phosphates to make sludge. I've heard Purple Ice works okay but don't have experience to back that up. If you're running prestone green, either additive would probably work.

Carrying extra coolant/distilled water is a good precaution, as mentioned.

I'm sure having that great Marlin clutch will give you some peace of mind.

Have fun!
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