yotawheelin95

I was looking around on the website and was wondering if anybody had any info on these kits and which one is the best caddy kit 1,2 or 3 for the money. I dont really want to do a SAS jsut because i love the look and function of a long travel kit. Rear axle questions too am i going to need a wider rear axle without looking funny. Do i need fiberglass fenders too? i dont really want to do that either thanks for the help guys

AxleIke

Fenders and rear axle are a personal choice. Yes your front tires are going to stick outside of your stock fenders, and will be wider than your rear axle. No need to change anything unless that bothers you.

talk to deathrunner on here, he's got a LT kit, and can probably help you out with regards to which one is best.

em3e3

I was thinking about this same exact thing yesterday. I'm curious - to keep the 4WD, we can swap in the T100 front axles. What about swapping in the T100 rear axle to match the front width? Any gearing or axles problems?

yotawheelin95

Good point on that. will shock locations be different?

amgraham

I am planning on doing the TC kit sometime too. Here's the lowdown (I've researched this stuff a lot):

You need fiberglass flared fenders to get full travel out of the front (unless you trim the crap out of the stockers)

The Caddy 1 Kit uses torsion bars, the Caddy 2 uses coilovers, and the Caddy 3 is a 2WD kit with longer travel. I will be going with the Caddy 2 for the adjustability of the coilovers and just to get away from the t-bars.

You can swap in a T-100 rear axle to match the front. It is pretty much bolt in. You have to run flares or something because the wheels will stick out. I really like Deathrunner's setup (he has rear bolt on flares that match the front fenders). It's not mandatory to run the wider axle, just preference.

You will need to plan out your rear suspension to match the front. Many people do the Chevy spring swap (if they have leafs) and new shock mounts with long travel shocks.

There is a ton of info around on this stuff though. I have been reading about it for almost a year now and still learning stuff here and there. Search and read extensively and it will make anything much easier to do (and not repeat other's mistakes).

AxleIke

The only reason you'd need flares is either personal preference, or if you have laws in your area. Other than that, both fiberglass and rear flares are optional.

Yota82

The main difference between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 is shock selection. On the Gen 1 you can run T-100 axles to retain 4WD but you have to keep the torsion bars because a coilover shock's big diameter is too great for an axle to fit through it. You can use coilovers but can't keep 4WD. The Gen 2 lower arms are wider to accomidate a coilover and a secondary shock with enough room for a T-100 axle to keep 4WD. The travel numbers for the Gen. 1 and Gen. 2 kit are the same (about 12"-13"). The Gen. 3 is a race/play 2WD only kit with about 15.5" of travel with a modified 4WD spindle. You cant use 4WD because of the modified 4x4 lift spingle. We ran the prototype Gen. 3 before it became available to the public. Pretty much race only. Here is a pic of the modified spindle.

There is no way to run 4WD with the Gen. 3. I would say your best bet is the Gen. 2. And no the shocks do not mount the same on any of the TC kits you either need to buy the shock mounts from TC or make your own. The T-100 rear axle will make the track widths match the Gen. 1 and Gen. 2. On my truck I run a 2002 Tacoma Prerunner e-locker rear housing which is 2" wider than the stock 86 housing and I run different offset wheels in the front (15x7)and rear (15x8). It evens it out quite a bit.

deathrunner

There is a good chance you will rubb 33's at full compression without glass. One of the basic advantages of LT kits is lift. Generally, LT kits will be cranked in from 2-4" of height. This all affects your ability to flex or eat up whoops.

The T-100 axle is the best way to get the rear width back, but new spring perches need to be welded onto the axle. I used 1.5" spacers and the difference has not bothered me.

There are a ton of choice for glass in the front and a few choices in the rear.
Front options range from mild to wild. Simple bolt on fenders, to completer hood fender combos and one piece clips.

Regardless of fenders, you will need to smash down the cab seam behind the tires. That is the first place you will encounter rubbing.

As far as what kit to go with, it all depends on your needs and cash flow.

The Caddy kit is thye most basic. Upper Ball Joints, Torsion bars, single shock. If you want to go fast and have little money, good choice.

Uniball Caddy upgrades to a unibal. If you want to go fast without a little more piece of mind, thats a good option.

Caddy 2 allows for the use of Coilovers only. Coilovers give you much more choice of your ride via custom coils. The costs involved are greater, but the outcome is way more tuneable. You can also run a 2nd shock, which is great for going fast.

I chose the JD fabrication T-1 kit. They just brought the price down significantly, so I think it is definitely worth looking into. Beefy lower arms, the ability to run torsion or coilover.

After running coilovers and torsions with an LT kit, if you are looking for flex, you have to do coilovers. It really makes a ton of difference. If you wnat good flex with torsion bars, I reommend sticking with the stock torsion bars.....just don't plan on going real fast.

Tanto

Here's writeup on an install courtesy of TLT....

Gen 2 Caddy install: http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/ar...road-magazine/

Yota82

Hey Deathrunner, The guys at Downey told me that uni-balls were "highly perishable" and all the other LT kits were "hideously wider" and that heims are inferior to tie rods. I say forget about TC and JD and use the best kit on the market.... Downey. They also told me that they used "tougher chromoly materials". Also torsion bars are better than coilovers.

yotawheelin95

wow i didnt think the price would be up over 2500 for that downey kit looks tough as hell but very pricey am i right or is this going to cost me taht much. i dont wheel too much... only aout 10-15 percent all other is highway and city will this screw up my driveablility?

yotawheelin95

Im thinkin i want to get this one... http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/Stor...p!ProdID!16780
If i just run the 31's will i need to trim the fenders or get 'glass ones? i like the idea of a t100 rear axle too. Will i need a lift for the rear then?? Chevy spring swap?? what kinda chevy to get these out of?

04 Rocko Taco

if you only wheel 10-15% you might want to rethink the fact that an LT kit is for you.

yotawheelin95

I still like the look of it. Later on when i buy a new truck ill keep this thing and modd the hell out of it

04 Rocko Taco

My vote still says save the coin and buy your new truck sooner. But again, as I say, its your truck, do what makes you happy and forget everyone else.

pinnacle

The reason for the fiberglass fenders is because of the increased track width of the kit. I'm running 33x10's on stock tacoma wheels and my tires still stick out past the fenders a little bit. For the rear I was using the deaver AAL. It replaces the overload leaf with 3 leaves. It worked pretty well for me.

Thats what I plan on running also, except I'm just going to run a regular tacoma axle so I can swap my 3rd into it.

yotawheelin95

would a straight up 3" lift be worth it? suspension lift

04 Rocko Taco

Take a look at the OME setup. Talk to Phil (strap22 on here) or Shannon from TTORA (TACOZILLA on here) about the OME setup. I think its a better option for you.

deathrunner

That pic of the truck flexing is BS. I talked to the guy that owned that truck and he told me that they broke a torsion socket. While it was broken, they took that pic. There is no way the upper tire would compress that much in that situation with torsion bars.

deathrunner

Downey....More like Downey Syndrome



Torsion bars are a good way to make suspension compact and ride height adjustable. Those are the only 2 advantages I have ever seen.