clk_cpa

I'm in the process of making the front end of my truck stronger. So i'm going to do the idler arm/bronze spacer mod, install idler truss from northwest, install a hecketorn steering stabilizer etc... The question is should torsion bars be replaced for the ONLY reason of running larger tires?. I have a bracket lift so the stock torsion bars I have right now are not cranked up, or at least I dont think they are. There seems to be 2 schools of though on this. Northwest says specifically that to run larger than stock tires, it's a good idea to use larger torsion bars.
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/torsionbars.php

But then you have 4x4wire.com saying that torsion bars are for sprung weight, in which case they would not have any impact when it came to wheels/tires, which are unsprung weight.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/

These are 2 of the many articles/opinions I found online. So, should I replace the torsion bars JUST for running bigger tires?

MudHippy

Answer = NO, because wheels/tires are not sprung weight.

clk_cpa

thanks, it's interesting that a place like northwest would say it needs to be changed for bigger tires considering they have been doing working on yotas a long time

flashkl

if you run large tires, you are more likely to have heavy armor, winch etc which would equate to more sprung weight...that may be their justification

angrybob

I went to 24mm rancho t-bars after adding a bunch of weight to the front end..bumper, winch, etc. Cranking up your stock t-bars to accommodate a weight increase is fine. Cranking up t-bars for 'lift' alone (w/o any add'l weight) isn't the greatest move. You might get a bit of left but you will also get a harsh ride 100% of the time.

My t-bars were cranked from the PO and the bigger bars with the extra winch, etc. weight set at the spec height have a much better ride than before.

clk_cpa

Ok thanks for the replies. I'm not going to bother with the tie rods. I dont have a heavy bumper or winch. I checked out the autozone idler arm and it's only $36. Is this the right one? Model FA5040? Based on my research it is, but the price is half of what it should be. Also, how good is the stock pitarm and are there any stronger aftermarket ones?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Search Northwest. They have a reputation.

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

FA5040 regardless of what autozone tells you IS the right one. And yes it's only like $36. That's the only one as far as I know that accepts the SDORI bushings. Unless your jumping your truck, have a SBC 350, 1uz or any other v8 conversion, winch/bumper you don't need thicker torsion bars.

clk_cpa

what do you think about their idler truss? any experiences with it?

MudHippy

It's very similar to the old Downey idler arm brace design, in construction and appearance. I've haven't heard too many of complaints about either. And since Downey went under, that's the only one around. So what other choice do you have besides making one yourself?

FYI, Downey used to perpetuate myths about their 26mm torsion bars too. If somebody is trying to sell you their product they are more likely to tell you things that aren't exactly true about it. Snake oil salesmen's tactics, in other words.

MaK92-4RnR

you should look into SAW ( Sway-a-way ) Torsion bars. Relatively cheap, powdercoated red, and great customer service. If you have a lot of weight on the front ( like I do ) i'd definitely pick some up.

clk_cpa

So do you think the idler truss that northwest sells is worth buying?

MaK92-4RnR

an idler truss does help with the "strength" of the idler arm. If you're really worried about damaging it, get a nice steering stabilizer, and a truss...

MudHippy

Personally, no. I made my own using 1/4" plate. Their's is only 3/16".

I would buy it if I couldn't make my own. It's better than nothing.

clk_cpa

ok thanks. I got the idler arm from autozone, but cant find any stamps anywhere. Neither FA5040 or the 555 that I should avoid are stamped. i hope I got the right one

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

What year is your rig? I don't remember the model number, but I do remember that the first arm Autozone gave me was wrong... their computer thinks '86 runners have a solid front axle.

clk_cpa

it an 88. the box said fa5040 so did the guy behind the counter but what does he know. I installed the bronze bushings so we'll see how long it will last