Torsion bar adjustment 91 PU????? Too stiff!
03-06-2009, 04:37 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Torsion bar adjustment 91 PU????? Too stiff!
I've got a 91 yota with the V6, 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift and 35's with 529 gears. Truck got stollen a couple of years ago and they had it for a year. Needless to say they pounded the %$#!* out of it. I have it back to somewhat of a normal state and the front end just seems too stiff. I think that they must have cranked the torsion bars to get more lift. I don't need any more lift than I already have, so how can I get a better ride? Today I parked the right front up on a rock about 1.5' off the ground. The tire didn't hardly move.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!
03-06-2009, 05:16 PM
#2
Well, you already know what to do don't you (uncrank the t-bars). Search IFS flex, I answered this question yesterday.
^Make quick disconnects rather than taking the swaybar off. Takes 5 sec/side to remove and about a minute to reinstall. I post this up about once a week it seems
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f129...onnects-75746/
Lift won't help IFS flex, often in kills flex. Your aftermarket torsion bars and the fact that they are "cranked" is killing your suspension flex.
Other things that have given me a fair bit more flex (travel and flex) are:
First, ditch the 26mm torsion bars and get the old, stock T-bars, I can't believe the BS advertising on aftermarket swaybars suggesting that stiffer t-bars will somehow make the truck better offroad. Maybe in desert racing or carrying a heavy bumper and winch, but they suck for everything else.
Use the BJ spacers to give a 1.5" lift then adjust the torsion bars so that the truck sits back at stock height (~14" from rim lip to the fender). Add the quick disconnects so that the drooping wheel isn't trying to prevent the compressing wheel from compressing more (and vice versa) through the spring action of the swaybar.
Once these mods have been made, your LCA will come in regular contact with the bumpstop when articulating. Now low-profile bumpstops will help you get at a little more compression of the suspension, which I think could be argued to be more important than droop.
*** You can do the alignment at home if you have a flat space you can work park on. Search "driveway alignment", I did a writeup to pick up where the SDORI (Elripster's company) left off.
Here's a vid of my IFS flexing with all the mods above except the LP bumpstops which would give me maybe an inch more compression in this case.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xi28TLAtrCE[/youtube]
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f129...onnects-75746/
Lift won't help IFS flex, often in kills flex. Your aftermarket torsion bars and the fact that they are "cranked" is killing your suspension flex.
Other things that have given me a fair bit more flex (travel and flex) are:
- BJ spacers ($150 + alignment*** + possibly longer shocks)
- Relaxed torsion bars after the BJ spacer "lift" (free, do this before your alignment as you have to align after adjusting ride height)
- Swaybar disconnects ($30)
- I will be adding low profile bump stops too ($20)
- If you conceptually include tires under "suspension" (which they are) lowering your tire pressure, will allow the tire on the wheel being stuffed (compressed) to bulge a little more (because it has more weight on it) and maybe gives you an 1-2" of overall flex. It also allows the tire to mould to the terrain a bit better, off road, lowering the tire pressure if very advantageous.
First, ditch the 26mm torsion bars and get the old, stock T-bars, I can't believe the BS advertising on aftermarket swaybars suggesting that stiffer t-bars will somehow make the truck better offroad. Maybe in desert racing or carrying a heavy bumper and winch, but they suck for everything else.
Use the BJ spacers to give a 1.5" lift then adjust the torsion bars so that the truck sits back at stock height (~14" from rim lip to the fender). Add the quick disconnects so that the drooping wheel isn't trying to prevent the compressing wheel from compressing more (and vice versa) through the spring action of the swaybar.
Once these mods have been made, your LCA will come in regular contact with the bumpstop when articulating. Now low-profile bumpstops will help you get at a little more compression of the suspension, which I think could be argued to be more important than droop.
*** You can do the alignment at home if you have a flat space you can work park on. Search "driveway alignment", I did a writeup to pick up where the SDORI (Elripster's company) left off.
Here's a vid of my IFS flexing with all the mods above except the LP bumpstops which would give me maybe an inch more compression in this case.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xi28TLAtrCE[/youtube]
Last edited by Matt16; 03-06-2009 at 05:22 PM.
03-06-2009, 06:07 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I only signed up on the forum yesterday and have already learned a lot from you Matt16. Do you have any pictures on the torsion bar adjustment, not sure what I am looking at down where they hit the frame. Additionally, I read your thread on the Aussie locker. Does the V6 have the 8" rear end? If they do, then Aussie is now showing that they have the locker available for the V6.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
choppe777
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
5
05-16-2016 08:00 AM
FS[SouthEast]: Brand new 26 mm. Downey torsion bars
HiLuxer
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
2
09-09-2015 02:43 PM
