4xfeeb

I am putting a header on a 90 22re and I was wondering if anyone could give
me the torque specs for the new studs in the block and the double nuts that
hold the header to the studs.
thanks

tc

33ft-lb

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Pg EG1-32

4xfeeb

Thanks for the info - unless I missed it they did not mention the studs into the block. Should I torque the studs at 33flbs the same as the nuts?

n4ynu1010

Here is the link to the online manual :
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

The studs yes I would say but I think I would call the header manufacturer and ask what they recommend for the header flange torque .

GSGALLANT

No, you don't torque studs into place. Install the studs until they bottom out, (you can even then back them off 1/2 turn or so). Install the header then the nuts, and torque the nuts down to spec.

n4ynu1010

I would beg to differ and would torque the studs (maybe not 33 ft/lbs) but would never back them out unless I installed with High Temp Threadlocker , I say this because I have seen many that did not Torque and or use the appropriate Thread Locking compound and the studs almost always would back out over time and or come out when you just wanted the nut to come off , Torque or Threadlock and lightly torque just remember to use the High Temp Thread Locking Compound and unless you never want them to come out - don't use the red or they will be a PITA to get out without heating the head and bolt to somewhere around 400 degrees - anyone say Hotdogs on a Stick
All those studs you break off or fight to get those nuts off of , if they were not torqued and or threadlocked and torqued don't you think they would all come out fairly easily as you are grunting to remove the nut on them ? - it happens few times because they are torque and or torqued and threadlocked .

GSGALLANT

To each their own, I guess... but it is not a generally accepted practice to torque studs down. At most, make it finger tight. An "untorqued" stud will not loosen if the nut is torqued to proper specs.

And as far as the stud coming off instead of the nut when you go to remove it again, that's perfect. It saves you from double-nutting the stud to take it out to clean the threads before re-installation (which you should always do, by the way... the threads should be clean enough so that you can spin the stud in and the nuts on easily by hand.)

Using your method, if the nut is rusted onto the stud, making it near impossible to seperate, you risk snapping the stud when you put any considerable amount of force on it, requiring you to drill out the old stud and re-tap the hole. In the same situation using the generally accepted method of finger tightening studs, when the stud and nut come out fused together, you throw them out and install new ones no problem.

n4ynu1010

I agree with the cleaning and such but have always double nutted and lightly torqued studs , generally Threadlocked also , just my 2 cents
I have had many come out removing header flange bolts , Tstat housing studs , Intake etc because one or the other had not been done and then I have to deal with fixing that as well .